Purple-black-rainbow LR3 🤷‍♂️ , build video @ https://youtu.be/FJ7nYio8oOE

Short: Built my LR3, and a video showing assembly and thinking @ Huge DIY CNC $900, V1E LowRider3, FREE design, normally $10,000+ - YouTube

Hello! Printed bunch of MPCNC parts for a friend last year, learned about V1E projects back then. Just couldn’t resist doing my own build any longer after LR3 released.

So here we are…

Purple + Black, that was the initial intent… But I messed up slicer settings (still had “remove all holes” mistakenly selected from prev job). Realized after far too many prints :man_facepalming: . Was running low on purple by the time Core needed printing, so I dusted off an unused rainbow filament, hoping to inspire the kids to play with the 30K RPM CNC, we’ll see…

Ordered LR3 kit from V1E, but to help stay motivated to make progress, have refrained from opening the kit until all parts are printed and CNC’d. VAC hose braces remaining, need to finalize my setup/design before doing those.

Printing: Overture PLA, Cura 5.0.0 slicer, 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height, 3 walls, spec + 10% extra infill. Brim support.

CNC’d Alu XZ and MDF YZ plates on Genmitsu 3018 ProVer with 3040 ext. 1/8" 2 flute carbide (went thru 4 bits) with 1/2 can of WD40. For Alu plates, the 4th bit did most of the work, survived by drowning at painfully slow 200mm/m, 12K RPM, 0.25mm depth of cut. My first Alu cuts, so, I know nothing! Single flute arrived after I was done. Ideally, I’d allocate time to experiment/calibrate cutting Alu with different values, using load-feed-speed equations/tables as a starting point.

2022-9-10 POST Build - decisions and learnings

  • Strategy :
    • Source, Print and Mill all parts before any assembly. Used time awaiting deliveries and print completion to ramp up on LR3 build posts and get familiar with common issues.
    • Printed Core after dialing in settings using Cura test cubes, retraction/temp towers, CNC Kitchen, Chep, Maker Muse, Thomas Sanladerer, Teaching Tech’s https://teachingtechyt.github.io and other helpful resources. Still continued to tweak/tune settings while printing the 8 braces. Printed Core after all of this obsessive tweaking/tuning.
  • Researched lots of EMT/Rod/Rail options and suppliers.
  • Researched bunch of table sizes and options.
  • Chose to buy V1E LR3 kit, reasons… Comes with firmware preloaded to reduce burning (not fun) time sourcing components, reduce risk of encountering build issues, and help support V1E/Ryan the designer. My LR3 Order (~$489):
    • LowRider v3 Hardware kit
    • SKR Pro1.2, 5x 2209 drivers, TFT35 E3 V3 -flashed -
    • Logo Sticker
    • Tiny Touch Plate - Kit
    • 2x Roller Limit Switch, Endstop.
    • 6x Limit Switch, Endstop
    • 2x EndStop Plug
    • Emergency Stop Button
    • SD Card 16GB
    • Makita 1/8" collet
    • Carbide Single Flute Long
  • Chose Makita RT0701C 1-1/4 HP Compact Router, replacement warranty is a good deal if you’re running a CNC for many many hours… brushes will likely wear and need servicing. Makita is great for getting started. Might upgrade to VFD water cooled spindle if things get serious.
  • Chose design with 49.5"x97.5" buildable area, used LR3 Calculator for material dimensions. Large enough for full size sheets plus bit extra. Note MDF 4’x8’ sheets are actually 49"x97" :man_shrugging:
  • Built janky Big Sled for large projects, cutting/carving full sheets and slabs.
  • Built janky Medium Surface that my LR3 mostly lives on, always ready to use, 3’x5’ torsion box surface. Was going to try out 3’ wide panel door, but ended up making a torsion’sh box, details/progress later in this topic.
  • Have limited space, so am using $15 harbor freight Gambrel and Pulley Hoist to help store full panel Sled vertically.
  • Chose MDF YZ plate because fast to cut, easy and stable enough material when sealed.
  • Chose Alu XZ plate for good rigidity, and opportunity to learn milling Alu on my old Genmitsu CNC. Without my Genmitsu I would’ve bought Alu plates from V1E.
  • Chose 3/4" EMT from Home Depot for Gantry, because seemed good enough when Struts are installed. May upgrade to thicker wall DOM steel later if/when gantry deflection exceeds my frustration threshold.
  • Chose 1/2" EMT for Y Rail, because support every 200mm results in solid enough support. Easier to clean underneath. Less likely to encounter clearance issue some encountered using 25mm Y Rail.
  • Recommend Spade connectors for Y Axis end-stops, they’re relatively exposed and vulnerable to break/fail, so, make them easy to replace. Soldered and heatshrink wrapped less exposed X/Z axis end-stops.
  • Chose to create Custom front Grill Strut, looks cool, and an opportunity to learn OpenSCAD.
  • Wasted time not painting YZ plate prior to initial assembly. Ended up burning time partially disassembly, painting YZ plates when Struts were added.
    • Cause: Was delusional and initially planning to build taller YZ plates. However, after reading issues folks were encountering, as I got into the build, I eventually decided it’d be best to minimize probability of also encountering frustrating issues by just building a stock LR3. So, consider… Getting a standard LR3 working, learn to use, get familiar before going off into less frequently explored direction.
  • :warning: GRUB SCREWS :warning: - Check, double check and triple check they’re snugged tight.
    • Use Medium Strength Thread Locker or stronger. Ensure grease is cleaned off grub screws before using threadlocker. For some reason (less cost/rust?) grub screws seem to be delivered drenched in oil :man_shrugging:



Can you post a closer look at that core? Ot looks awesome.


Cheers @jeffeb3 ! Sure thing…

Looks great when viewed 1’+. But up real close you’ll see some ghosting, warts, bulging corners, suboptimal overhangs (printed outside skin first). Printed for a laugh, but planning to use.

Many calibration cubes/towers. Mistakes were made…


That is amazing.


Glad to see you’re getting it cat scanned before assembly…

:joy_cat: :joy_cat:


That looks really cool. Great part to use rainbow on. The angle of the print makes it look awesome.


Finally… Opening the Kit, and starting Assembly!


Core and plates assembled. Should’ve painted/sealed YZ MDF before assembly, but planning on swapping for 200mm rails depending on how that goes for others.

Rolling with synthetic motor noise test worked :slightly_smiling_face:. So, onto “Beam assembly”, currently figuring out size needed to accommodate 49"x97" MDF stock. Digging thru calculator and forum posts…


Sharing zipped .3MF containing Cura 5.0.0 profile I used to print the Core in 14h 40mins. Am no 3D printing expert, have seen folks on this forum get great prints much faster. My relatively stock Ender 3 Max, 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height. Been couple of weeks now, but for infill, think I used doc recommendations +10%.

For smaller non Core parts I printed with faster profile. Used Cura test cubes, retraction/temp towers, CNC Kitchen, Chep, Maker Muse, Thomas Sanladerer, Teaching Tech’s https://teachingtechyt.github.io and other helpful resources.

220707_lr-core.zip (508.4 KB)

Hope that helps. Cheers!


Beam assembled. Wired. Using @DougJoseph’s nifty SKR Pro + TFT enclosure.

Goal is to get LowRider rolling and throwing chips like a high roller throwing chips at a club. Jankiest of janky tables, here we come…


For table ideas, consider a torsion box something like this, covered with a thin skin on the bottom, and perhaps a thin skin plus MDF spoiler board on top.

This image came from https://thewoodwhisperer.com/viewer-projects/kens-mobile-torsion-box-assembly-table/

Or of course you could build two torsion boxes like I did, and bolt them together on a base. Plans and pics of my table are in my LR2 build thread. I can link if you cannot find it.

1 Like

Cheers @DougJoseph! Appreciate the guidance and sharing your table build journey. Have already bookmarked your Doug Joseph (Design8Studio) Full-Sheet LowRider 2 "Build on a Budget" - #10 by DougJoseph and bunch of other great designs different folks have been coming up with.


My goal was to end the week with a table built, LR3 mounted and running. Almost there…


Excited to see what you come up with for a table.


Yep, me too. Excited to see what you come up with for your table.

1 Like

Janksy’s 1st crown attempt!

Am pleased considering the shortcuts I took… Paper was taped to decrepit damp swollen bent loosely laid chip spoilboard, resting on cambered 2x4s. Pen was loose (recommend 3 zip ties), neat idea to mount pen to vac holder. Still need to do Initial Squaring and level/tram with a surface bit. Core rail tensioners are loose, etc…

Again, love and appreciate the design. I keep discovering, realizing and appreciating details, e.g. like how the X Belt Tensioner profile/design’s tight tolerance allows barely sliding behind the Core. Cool engineering!

Short clip (~27s) @ LowRider V3 CNC build — Janksy's 1st crown - YouTube

Janksy currently rides on not a table legless flat surface. Copied and tweaked some forum ideas:

  • Threw together some 10’ 2x4’s for the ~9’ x ~5’ frame, fastened with headlok 4-1/2", 16" on center.
  • Left top open, no torsion skin, at least until solid base/legs are built, at which point Janksy can self surface/tram.
  • Used 10’ 1"x 6" (actual size… 3/4" x 5.5") primed finger joint pine for Y rails. Would have used Melamine if could easily source long enough material.
  • Let Y axis run past front end of the table to enable easier bit change access. Plus saved some cuts and the kit’s belt was just long enough to reach.

No legs, probably getting short term casters. Still figuring out how to hoist onto side against the wall when not in use.

Next steps:

  • Figure out vertical storage, need functional parking bay.
  • Surface top, calibrate, make some struts. Seal and pretty up.
  • Ramping up on Paulk, and similar builders/makers ideas for worktop/workshop stuff.



've had worse ideas, thinking Harbor Fright’s $15 rope and tackle usually used to hang your meat, is worth trying out on my LowRider not a table surface.

Suspending using E-Track to split load across multiple joists, and provide options later for easy overhead vac/power.

Really like super strut, but don’t like how a complete system prices out to. So, doing best I can by frequently asking myself WWMD? (What would Macgyver do).

1 Like

Created a video… Hope this helps folks figuring out whether, and how to build their LowRider 3!

Feedback appreciated, cheers!

Went a bit nuts on the indexing. My thinking is that this approach helps make info more discoverable.

00:00 - Intro and video goals
00:48 - WHAT’s a LowRider CNC for? Answer: Subtractive Manufacturing
01:30 - WHY build a LowRider? Answer: Step up from my baby CNC, right balance of quality and price for me.
02:20 - MPCNC is good, but I want a LowRider 3
02:43 - Pick your own size, or sizes even…
04:51 - Using Controller+TFT case by V1E Community member Doug Joseph
04:55 - Hassle free kits and parts available from https://shop.v1engineering.com, Controllers come with software preloaded.
05:48 - Parts printed, milled and delivered
06:24 - Unboxing V1E LowRider 3 Kit. Woot!
06:28 - Assemble LR3 Core
06:36 - Ream holes, reverse drill helps screws slip in tight
06:54 - Assemble X Drive
07:12 - Mount X Drive
07:15 - Stare at your Core for a bit, it’s so pretty
07:16 - Mount X endstop to Core
07:25 - Assemble Y Steppers
07:51 - Soldered Z endstops, too tight for spade connectors
07:56 - XZ Lead screw stubs. Reverse drill with 13/32 bit
08:02 - Assemble XZ plates
08:24 - Marry XZ to YZ plates
08:34 - Marry XZ to YZ plate rails
08:45 - Mount Z drive to YZ plate
08:55 - Wiring Z endstops, solder
09:03 - Wiring Z endstops, test
09:08 - Assemble Z endstops
09:16 - Mount Z endstops
09:18 - Adjust XZ plate, was binding
09:26 - Mount Z endstops
09:31 - Mount Y Drive
09:42 - Wiring Y endstop, solder
09:50 - Mount Y endstop, wiring routing
09:55 - Wiring routing
09:57 - Mount Y endstop, wiring routing
10:00 - Assemble wheels
10:05 - Mount wheels to YZ plate
10:10 - Assemble and mount Rail Rollers
10:19 - Assemble Beam, strut order… 1) Front, 2) Bottom, 3) Back
    10:21 - mount braces
    10:25 - LR3 Calculator, pipe and table size
    10:28 - Front, loosely insert screws
    10:36 - Bottom, loosely insert screws
    10:41 - Rear, loosely insert screws
    10:51 - Front, check straight, snug clamps
    10:58 - Mount core
    11:00 - Mount YZ plate
11:10 - Assemble X Belt
    11:10 - Insert X Belt
    11:12 - Mount X Belt holder
    11:15 - Check X Belt end not blocking Z axis motion
    11:17 - Mount X belt tensioner
    11:28 - Fix for if X Belt stub is too loose
11:31 - Attach PETG tool mount
11:38 - Attach Vac hose mount
11:40 - Wiring SKR Pro 1.2 Controller
    11:40 - Bend/clip diag driver pin
    11:45 - Change jumpers
    11:48 - Mount drivers
    11:54 - Remove JST shields
    12:03 - TMC2209 driver pinouts
12:05 - Wiring 〉 Route and Sleeve (1/2" wrap)
    12:05 - Left YZ sleeve
    12:15 - Routing right YZ
    12:24 - Extend right YZ, use solder butt connectors
    12:54 - Right YZ, 1/2" sleeve wrap
    12:59 - NOT using cable gland, case holes too small
    13:05 - Extend wires for X axis
    13:16 - Wire X axis, test endstop
    13:23 - Wire X axis routing and 1/2" sleeve
13:46 - X axis, verify range of motion. Router cord blockage
14:06 - Wire X axis, cable management
14:20 - Case wiring, routing power
14:42 - Controller wiring, driver endstops
15:03 - Wiring controller, fans and TFT
15:37 - Build minimum viable Sled. Use LR3 Sled edition to finish LR3!
17:12 - Motion test, FAIL - Y stepper wiring reversed
17:21 - Motion test, SUCCESS - Homed and move as expected
17:28 - Crown Test, SUCCESS, kinda…
17:47 - Struts 〉 Initial squaring
    17:48 - Attach pen to Core
    17:50 - Generate test gcode
    17:51 - Connect via Repetier
    17:53 - FAIL, relative positioning was set :frowning:
    17:54 - Typed gcode for corner moves
    18:02 - Measure squareness
    18:05 - Config homing offsets M666
18:07 - Z Leveling
18:19 - Struts 〉 Design
    Calc size, download files
    Use OpenScad & Estlcam to prepare gcode
18:31 - Struts 〉 First cut ~56mins
    18:31 - Fasten spoilboard and stock
    18:40 - Cut first strut
    18:47 - Post cleanup, too long
18:54 - Struts 〉 Second cut ~42mins
    19:02 - Post cleanup, Remove/trim debris, sand, vac
    19:09 - Paint it black
19:16 - Surfacing Spoilboard
    19:16 - Create toolpath
    19:17 - Cut ~0.5mm in ~61mins
19:25 - Struts 〉 Make custom front strut
    19:25 - OpenScad 〉 Customize, export .SVG
    19:26 - Estlcam 〉 Create and Preview toolpaths
    19:28 - Repetier 〉 Load .gcode
    19:28 - Carve and cut 42mins
19:35 - Struts 〉 Paint 〉 2nd coat, protect via Shellac/Polycrylic
19:37 - Final Assembly - Mount struts to beam
    19:40 - Temporarily disassemble beam
    19:57 - Mount bottom strut
    20:02 - Mount front strut
    20:07 - Mount YZ plates and rear strut
20:17 - Wrap up
    Future upgrades - Table, Vac, drag chain and more…
    Check out https://forum.v1engineering.com
    Thank you! Want to see more?


Some Endstop wiring length info for my build, with 49-1/2" (1257mm) usable cutting width.

Sharing details since I asked during my build, and @KL2001 asked similar question today.

Didn’t have this info for my build, and extended endstop wires by soldering butt connectors (fast video clip, don’t blink!). Used a mix of 3x extension wiring kits from V1E Shop and some 22AWG wiring I happened to have.

Knowing what I know now, would’ve cut the following endstop wiring lengths upfront during initial build to help save some splicing/soldering time.

End stop Length to Controller Box Total (includes 400mm for 2x Box length)
X/touchplate 1900mm 2300mm
Y1 550mm 950mm
Z1 700mm 1100mm
Y2 2000mm 2400mm
Z2 2000mm 2400mm
  • Some context/thinking behind the generous lengths mentioned above :
    • Middle column lengths are distance to closest opening on the beam mounted controller box. I used Doug Joseph’s case. Y1/Z1 enter different Box hole than X/touchplate/Y2/Z2.
    • 400mm is 2x Box length, that’s more than plenty to route within the box, expect to cut excess and throw into your misc wiring cutoff’s container. Optimized for my time over minimizing waste.
    • Included extra for Y/Z endstop wiring incase I modify YZ plates to be 100mm taller for larger Z cut capacity.
    • Included extra for X endstop (and touchplate) wiring to make wide turn within drag chain (or tape measure).
  • Used 22AWG, soldered and heatshrinked all endstops. However, for the Y endstop, wish I’d instead used decent tight spade connectors (from an autostore). The Y endstops stick out and are fragile, they’re likely to break if/when LowRider is being frequently stored/relocated.
    • Ideally, some less fragile endstops for Y axis would be nice, as a future upgrade, any recommendations? Still need alternative endstop sensor to be accurate, reliable and relatively cheap.
      Think @stevempotter uses hall effect based sensors on their MPCNC?
    • That said, I personally recommend using the documented endstops to begin with, you don’t want to introduce more variables and increase initial build frustration. Best to initially focus on getting to a good working state using stock parts. Upgrade later, LR3 will probably be a ongoing project after all…

Yes, I have one Hall effect switch for each stepper motor (or, 2 for each of the X and Y axes, and one for the Z-up) and I have to say that after a year of using the machine, they work very reliably. You don’t have to worry about bumping them, or any effects of dust. Here is a video about them: https://youtu.be/ztcMPmEYCmw?t=763
I carefully measured their repeatability and it came out to about 15 microns. The standard microswitches actually came out a bit better, about 10um. (standard deviation of many measurements using a digital micrometer to trigger them.)