CNC-cut table for LowRider v3 (parameterized, for cutting full sheets+)


Update September 29, 2023:

This page is now a wiki so it can be kept updated. The following new index content is copied and pasted from a new download page on my website.

PAGE (and some of the FILES) LAST UPDATED SEPTEMBER 29, 2023.

For prior (older) links / documentation / how to use these files, click here.

This page offers a Zip download with Fusion 360 archive files for 7 different models of CNC cut tables for the LowRider v3 DIY CNC, and also offers DXF files for each of the wood parts that would need cut.

Recommended material for all aspects of torsion box: #1 MDF, #2 particle board, #3 OSB, #4 plywood, or some other processed wood. I initially thought plywood was better for the ribs and spars, but unless you live somewhere with high humidity, Ryan has indicated MDF, particle board, or OSB are better.

Note: if your wood material for ribs and spars is a thickness other than 23/32″, then please edit the Fusion 360 parameter named “Thickness_Plywood_Material” and afterward re-output the DXFs for both “X ribs” and “Y spars” and edit your cut plan accordingly. Info on how to output DXF (can even be done in free hobby version of F360) is available here.

Note: To download/use Ryan’s table design, which includes legs, braces, and shelving, click here.

*Note: for the full size tables designs (with 97" cuttable area), the wood sides that the LowRider rides on, which I call Riding Plates, are too long to get in a single cut from a 4x8 sheet. Same is true for the outer side supports for them, which I call Outer Minor Y Spars. So it takes two cuts each on the Riding Plates and two cuts each on the Outer Minor Y Spars. This leads to a choice / decision on how to combine the two halves of each together. One approach is using lap joints, which the DXF pre-arranged cut plans below are setup for. Height match is key. Some sanding can get a match if the glue-up makes the two surfaces of the lap joint thicker than ideal. Another approach is using either a biscuit joiner cutter, with a biscuit glued into each side, or a Festool Domino cutter (I don’t own one, they are super expensive), or a dowel joiner cutter, or neither — just a simple butt joint. (Again this is only the full length table designs (which are marked with *).

Doug’s table designs:


Fusion 360 archive files + DXF overall cut plans (and individual part cuts as well):

Update Apr 21, 2023:

Got the “part 2” video edited & posted. Watch both part 1 (short) and part 2 (full length) to get the scoop on this awesome enhancement of my LowRider v3 CNC capabilities:

For LowRider v3 CNC, full sheet capable table, Part 1, prep & cross lap test

For LowRider v3 CNC, full sheet capable table, Part 2, CNC cut & assembly!

LowRider v3 CNC, Giant Crown Test on new full-sheet table!

Update Apr 19, 2023:

For 5 different parametric CNC-cut table variations for LowRider v3…

Click here for 3: “More parametric CNC-cut tables for LowRider v3 (full sheet+): 3.625”, 6”, and 8” tall versions” (this link removed because the newer links at the top of the page should be better.)

Or here for 2: “Two more parametric CNC-cut tables for LowRider v3 — 24"X48” and 48"x24" versions, at 3.625” tall" (this link removed because the newer links at the top of the page should be better.)

Update Apr 17, 2023:

This lighter weight design for which the torsion box can be cut from only one sheet of plywood, can serve well on top of a cabinet support structure. If instead you want to use only legs for support, I suggest 6 legs, with two of them in the middle (length wise). Otherwise, the weight of the material added on top can cause the torsion box to bow ever so slightly. (I’m able to check the flatness by use of a laser leveler.) I have my build of this torsion box set on a surface that allows me to shim under the torsion box both to get to a level plane (only so the laser can be used to check for flatness) and to keep the flatness. I have recorded video but I don’t have it edited and posted yet. See below for downloads. Also, Ryan has now released a plan for a parametric table that can also be CNC cut. I took many cues from both his napkin sketch and the table he released. My understanding is that the design he released has more height on the X-ribs and Y-spars, which means his table will be stronger and more resistant to bowing, and thus would also take more than one sheet to cut out the torsion box portion. For an approach to making legs, see his design.

Update Apr 13, 2023:

Download: version for long wooden sides for the LR3 to ride on. Calls for either five (5) 49″ x 97″ sheets of MDF (one 3/4″ thick and four 1/2″ thick), or one (1) 4’x’8 sheet of 3/4″ plywood, and another four (4) 49″ x 97″ sheets of 1/2″ MDF. The 3/4″ thick sheet is for making the torsion box, and the four 1/2″ thick sheets are for side rails (for “riding plates”), plus bottom skin, top skin, and sacrificial spoil board top layer.

Download: version for using metal struts (aka Unistrut, aka Superstrut) for LR3 to ride on; gets around task of coming up with long wood material for the LR3 to ride on, and supports my mod to hide the long belt on one side, inside metal strut. Calls for one (1) 4’x’8 sheet of 3/4″ plywood or MDF to make the torsion box, and three (3) 49″ x 97″ sheets of 1/2″ MDF for bottom skin, top skin, and sacrifice spoil board top layer.

Update Apr 10, 2023: re. wooden sides version — older pics still shown here, but newer pics shown below on revised streamlined version that is doable from a single sheet of plywood (all except the wooden side extension rails), and the Fusion file is updated both for online viewing and the download link I’m sharing.

Feel free to read on through the thread for discussion, input, and development story.

Quick update. Back before @vicious1 posted his 3D napkin sketch of a CNC-cut LowRider table, fellow V1E maker @wcs39204 had started work in SketchUp on a CNC-cut LowRider table that is eerily similar to Ryan’s napkin sketch. With Ryan’s plate full at the moment, @wcs39204 (Will S) asked me to consider fleshing out his start done in SketchUp. He emailed it over. Here’s a screen shot.

I wanted to attempt fleshing it out, but I also wanted it to be parameterized, so I moved into Fusion 360. In prep for that, I created a lengthy set of user-parameters, and then entered those into Fusion. These params include even an amount of allowance added onto material thickness for calculation of slot width, etc.

Here’s a screen shot of my work thus far.

For distinction sake, I’m calling the X members of the torsion box “X Ribs” and calling the Y members of the torsion box “Y Spars.”

I currently have the torsion box slightly shorter than full length of a normal 4x8 sheet of plywood. The thinking is that:

  1. It allows the Y spars to be fully CNC cut, by not depending on the factory edges being either square or flush, which is definitely not a given that the factory edges would be usable.
  2. It allows a “lip” for gripping from the ends for picking the table up, since a full sheet of MDF attached for torsion box “skin” would extend beyond the ends of the torsion box.

I currently have the torsion box’s MDF bottom skin narrower than the MDF top skin, because it does not need to be as wide, and the part that gets cut off can be used for something else, possibly within this same project.

As always, I welcome input.

For clarity sake, I may or may not even make this table, but I know that such a thing would potentially be a great help to new incoming V1E makers, even if the final design is someone else’s or has input changes by someone else.


It would be good to use lumber for the Y struts as they come in lengths greater than 2440.
My local DIY store stocks planed all round clean lumber in various thicknesses that could slot in the X ribs.

I hear you, but the plan being drawn does not use Y spars longer than what can be machine cut from a 4x8 plywood sheet (for the 4 main ones). If I am mistaken on that, please point out my error.

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Also, I’d like to point out that my short axis parts were designed heavily using @Mcunn 's portable table idea. They’re not exact, but the initial idea was definitely his.

I couldn’t figure out how to build out the design using a 4x8 sheet of ply, because my table has a 49x97 cutting area, that allows for full sheets of MDF. Which would require pieces be at least 112" long for the length of the table. I’m no engineer at all, but the idea seemed like a good one. But probably outside of my scope of designing sadly.

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I’m not saying you’re mistaken I just had in my mind that to be able to cut a full sheet the bed itself needs to be longer than that - 2823mm is it? So planed lumber would be ideal in that case

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When I was building mine

Portable Lowrider in Annapolis - LowRider CNC / Your Builds - V1 Engineering Forum

I planned on a longer set of struts by laminating 2 pieces of 1/2 plywood on either side of the strut. As I used electrical strut on the outside it handles the flatness.

Never did build the larger struts though but I did make a shorter set.


I still love your table! That was very well thought out. I also saw your video on it in the prototype stage I guess?

So my thought was to take your struts, and at the end instead of having them vertical, just flip them horizontal for the LR3 to roll around on. Looking back, I think somehow UniStrut could still work. But again, I’m not really a designer, or engineer so what sounds good in my head isn’t always a great idea haha!

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Yeah that’s a cracker.

Remember, it’s not the bed that needs to be longer, it’s the side rails that need to be longer, and I’ve already planned for (and explained above, in the OP) that the rails would be of some type of longer wood or lumber. EDIT: I referenced them being cut from 1" x ?" x 10’. However, as per Ryan, it would be better to use an engineered wood, even if it has to be two pieces glued together. To quote Ryan:

And again, him answering me asking what to do instead of dimensional lumber:

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The fun part is finding dimensional lumber that’s actually straight. That’s why I used unistrut on my big table.

With the spoil board being the same size as a sheet of mdf, which is usually larger than a full sheet of plywood, you get the ability to add clamps to the ends for doing end grain cuts on lumber.


I’ve been considering adding unistrut on my LR3 build. But what I initially thought was my table wasn’t very ‘flat’ turned out to be broken plastic in my LR2. Once I rebuilt the LR2, that problem went away and I discovered I actually have a very flat table. Just, my floor isn’t level. sigh Always something… LOL


Just reading in the shadows lol
I think I was like 4” off of a full sheet build for my first table.
Now I am sizing and building onto a different table.
I think I can make it so I can utilize a whole 4x8 sheet.
Many hours just staring at tables and my garage trying to get a game plan.
I am trying to make mine portable, but later on down the road I would love to build one of these proper tables.


Yea, my barn’s floor moved between seasons, so I had to make it adjustable.


To be fair, the table was the hardest part of my LR2 build. That’s why I got all excited when Ryan said he might have a CNC Cut LR Table coming down the pipeline in the future haha


Yes sir. My thinking on it is twofold:

  1. There is to be a table “frame” extension to attach the 1x4 lumber to, which could help straighten it/ keep it straight.
  2. I would plan on a version that’s made for unistrut. And that’s probably what I would go with if I made it.

I tried using steel studs for the core, don’t do that. :rofl:

Yea, mine slopes towards the back. When I level that end of my table it puts a slight hump in the middle, So I need to figure out some sort of levelling device, kinda like washers used to have those automatic levellers on them. IDK yet.


Yea, that should work. The plywood should be stronger than the wood warping, if you can get it before the warp tries to happen.

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HAHA I remember that!!! I think I even asked you about it once!

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Yea, one of my torsion boxes had a slight warp to it, so I bolted the table to the floor, not realizing it moved so much.