I print at my nozzle’s highest flow rate. 12 or 13mm^3/s for me that is like 55 or 60mm/s with 0.5mm nozzle at 0.37mm layers.
You will need to tune your own build but the lighter your extruder/hotend, the faster you can go.
Ok. I have only tried ender 5 plus with bowden, ender 5 plus with direct drive and micro swiss all metal hotend and stock ender 3 max.
55 to 60mm/s sounds good. Do you have an intended extruder/hotend combo?
This is open, with 6 mounting holes. You can mount anything you want. I use a hemera. Speed is kinda secondary to flowrate.
If I wanted a 300mm cubed build I would add 100mm to everyone of these? There is a premade package with 12x500mm 2020 extrusions. How big could I go with 500mm extrusions? 470mm? And with 750mm extrusions?
Is there any good reason to keep the build small or big? Or medium?
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Well, the 2020 extrusion as with any material will be less rigid the longer that it is. Longer material has a greater moment arm when any force is applied to it, so it becomes easier to bend, and relatively weaker as well, so the amount of flex that it will have with any applied force grows exponentially. This is a reason to make the printer as small as possible while still able to manage what you do with it.
You can increase the rigidity of the frame by adding side panels which anchor to the frame and help support it, but this is of course at the cost of additional material and mass. Speaking of mass, the longer the X rail is the more it weighs and flexes as well. The MP3DPv4 uses an unsupported MGN12H rail for the carriage, so at some point this will become a limiting factor. Many CoreXY printers support the linear rail with an additional extrusion, but this also affects mass and limits the possible acceleration of the print head, mostly in the Y dimension.
IMHO, 300mm isn’t unfeasable. I have a larger volume on my MP3DPv3 and get excellent results, even though the gantry is even more flexible than this one. But it is a reason to keep the build volume as small as practical.
To be useful, I think that a 200mm cube build volume is a good target for all-purpose 3D printing. You can already slice a print that will take days in that volume. I have very seldom needed a larger build volume. The reason my Repeat build volume is larger is because of the parts I had ready mostly (A CR-10 build plate which is 300mm by 300mm usable area) as well as the MGN12H linear rails that I could easily obtain, and that I am unwilling to cut. Same with my MP3DP v4, where I had 300mm rails for Y and Z and got a 350mm rail for X to make for a 250mm cube build volume – this time I have a 235mm square build plate. I should probably have cut the rails down and just used 200mm anyway, particularly since I have the Repeat if I need the extra size. I am certain that the 235mm build plate would have fit inside the machine. Well, I can’t resist changing stuff, that’s why I DIY.
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Hi,
thank you for your reply. Is there any point in using 4020 extrusions for some of the extrusions?
Do you have a build plate from Creality Ender 3? Or similar?
How does it work with the triangle shaped piece below the bed? Is it milled in aluminum? Or steel?
I agree on the build size, I rarely print big. Perhaps I´ll do cubed build also.
Almost forgot, is there much left to do with v4?
It might be useful for some to increase the strength, but it’s not like I’ve done a structural analysis. For a reasonable printer size, I think it will be fine in 2020, unless you have some 2040 hanging around.
I would probably do the X cross pieces in 2040 first, as they are the longest (for a cubed build) but I am not sure where rhe weakest link in the structure really is.
I think its a replacement for an Ender 10, but could be wrong. I modified the support plate to have 4 mounting locations that match the plate, because it did not support a 3 hole setup. My current V4 build is using a build plate that does have a 3 hole mounting solution.
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What hemera variant are you using? 12v or 24v?
Anyone have BOM details they’re able to share? Cheers for this Topic. Figured on asking since last post was a while ago.
Trying to plan out BOM/parts for my build.
Also, curious if anyone already has a V1E Shop order listing MP3DP v4 related parts they ordered from Ryan on 3D Printer Parts – V1 Engineering Inc ? Figuring on ordering what I can from V1E store before other places.
I have been trying to work on the actual instructions page but some how I blasted my git install and had bash errors for a few days. I found a workaround, and I am currently building another printer so I hope to add to the instructions page now. If you don’t mind I will be borrowing heavily from your mp3dp instruction page.
From the shop you can get
Control board
Steppers
Belt
Pulleys
Idlers toothed and smooth.
Endstops
A few wires for extending, stepper and endstops.
ptfe tube for reverse bowden
maybe some bed springs if you do not have some flexible tubing for the bed mounting. (not used for typical leveling just a soft mount.)
Wire sleeve for wire management
I have a bit of thicker wire available for power supply to board connection if needed.
I think that is it.
Still need extrusions and connections
Extruder
Power supply
heated bed
Screws, nuts, tnuts
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Awesome. Cheers for clarifying components available from the Shop. Will order what am missing after rummaging through my existing stock.
Absolutely, happy to contribute when possible, ideally anything I write gets used/absorbed into more broadly used content. I don’t want to duplicate anything you’re doing, am happy to help contribute/review whatever you’re writing up as I do my build, just won’t be as quick as you though.
That’s great, didn’t expect MP3DP instructions to be a priority for you since you’re not selling kits, for now anyway… Honestly have no idea how you manage to balance everything.
There’s an increasing number of detailed MP3DP v4 build topics turning up now, those Makers have collectively helped me feel confident enough to tackle this project.
Every time I build one I do things a bit differently. This new one with the panels for sides. Seems a lot easier to do…it is not done yet. It is also forcing me to rethink wire management a bit. (Honestly, every time I build any of my machines this happens)
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Never heard of her…
Don’t judge too hard. Once it’s actually running right I do plan to fix it up lol
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That’s what I said with my Repeat… It still looks kind of like that…
Unfortunately there is a good chance the same will happen to me…but I’m really hoping to make it better lol. Right now my concern is on making it function more than it is appearance.
I call this art!
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Am trying to solve the MP3DP v4 BOM Puzzle. Using the clues in this topic and following info:
- MP3DP v4 Forum Topic | Fusion 360 model
- MP3DP v4 Pics of Ryan’s builds
- V1E Shop 3D Printer Parts
- MP3DP v4 community builds have stumbled across.
- MP3DP v3 Topic | Fusion 360 model | Parts
Edit: Moved latest BOM am working against to my build thread. Hoping to delete from there too when MP3DP v4 docs contain BOM info.
You just need some straps or ties. You’re close.
I am using a CAN board instead of an umbilical cord on my next printer.