Who doesn’t want an automatic tool changer? That’s something I always wanted, but I still can’t rationalize the time/material cost of pursuing a full on automated solution.
However, @jamiek’s innovative LR3 IDEX build topic, now that seems like a neat achievable upgrade with decent enough ROI to be worth trying out. Also, his design allows cutting multiple identical/mirrored parts at the same time. So, here we go…
It occurs to me that SSRs might not be needed if you are willing to manually turn off one router and turn on the other. Powering the routers is a tiny fraction of the hassle of switching tool bits so you still get pretty much all the benefit of the dual-tool setup. Or maybe start without them and add it if you get tired of manually switching power.
In my case I was looking for 100% unattended setup, meaning primarily it had to be outside in a spot where fire is not a problem, and also to run unattended the SSRs for powering the tools were mandatory.
Done bunch of small-medium prints on my MP3DP v4, have printed test cubes, large rectangles and temp towers to calibrate. Even so, I probably should’ve tuned more before kicking off this print, but what the heck… This’ll be the first yuge print on my MP3DP, added custom Fan Duct for the occasion.
No idea whether these are good/bad settings. Initial layers are laid. We’ll see what happens…
Edit: Changes while printing (layer ~26 of ~550) :
Dialed back speed to 80% after noticing 100mm/s infill was causing printer to shake too much and result in blobby mess. Doesn’t help that I forgot to take printer off a low profile lazy susan before printing
Dialed back extrusion to 97% after noticing nozzle seemed to be too low and carving through material previously laid. Vaguely recall calibration test cube wall thickness was a few percent too thick, so this makes sense.
That’s a really good idea, so no, I forgot/skipped that. Did kind of test max extrusion speed when calibrating steps by feeding 100mm.
After checking dimension/skew accuracy I skipped a few tests, and jumped straight to the “suck it and see” test… 0.6mm noz, 0.32mm layers. Reduce speed a few layers in down to walls ~64mm/s, infill ~80mm/s, while rocking on a lazy Susan, vibration dampened with microfiber rags.
This test really opened my eyes. CNC kitchen has a blob test that you weigh…I want to try that one. Teaching techs is more quick and dirty, run it until your extruder skips or doesn’t flow smooth, then back off a bit. That got me to right where E3D said it should be (even though that info does seem to be sort of buried). I have not tried the H2 yet.
Tempted to add calibration marks, slice and print first 2mm to verify dimensions/skew. Will use to compare against my existing LR3 Core. Reason being the existing Core was printed ~yr ago on different printer, I should verify new calibrated Core will match before doing another full print. I potentially might end up intentionally mis-dimensioning the new Core to match the old one.
Completely my fault, I calibrated Z using a pathetically small 20mm cube. The irony is that after calibrating again my Z rotation/esteps are back to 32. Related Klipper config edits.
Checked Z height this time by homing XYZ, Z-tilting, then moving Z axis to largest distance possible that could still be accurately measured from the bed. Ended up using the Attempt #1 Core and some other objects as measuring sticks…
2mm thin core slice from new printer matches 1yr old Core from diff printer close enough. Kicked off Attempt #2…
Update: Attempt #2 in-progress. Consider Stick On Temp Gauge on Steppers mounted to PLA. Back when I first saw Stick On Temp Gauges, I laughed and thought they were a bit gimmicky. Today’s different, while observing a long running print, the stickers gave me useful information to not overly enclose and smother the printer. The nice and quieter snuggly towel wrapped printer quickly started to heat up with steppers getting to a point that would be an issue for PLA mounts. So, although am using PETG, have unwrapped and left the front open until if/when am using higher temp materials (ASA?).
Update: Attempt #2 done. Looks great. More importantly, dimensions and layer adhesion are great.
Dimensions 170.0mm x 95.0mm x 35.0mm / 6.7" x 3.7" x 1.4"
Until now, have been turning Router on and off manually, guessing most people do, it’s easy. Originally had lofty goals of adding a relay, and PID speed control. But as usual, got distracted and ended up prioritizing other stuff… Despite this track record, instead of doing the quick safe option mentioned above, am going to try a 4-channel 5V triggered 30A rated Relay Module hooked up to my Octopus’s Fan ports. 4-channels instead of just 2, because might end-up achieving lofty goals of hooking up Vac, cooling, lights, lasers, etc… Have to make an enclosure at this point, so may as well include space for futures.
Was considering SSR, but they seem too reliable and pricey for things that needs relatively infrequent on/off switching?