I used to be pretty handy with software, computers. But that was over 15 years ago. I am doing a lot of woodworking and want to start using a cnc.
I have no experience what so ever, with cnc.
My cognitive function has changed significantly, from theoretical to practical, so the information is pretty overwhelming. I think, that when I have all the parts in my hand, assembly will not be a problem.
Although the documentation is extensive. I cant get clear, what parts I need for a full sheet size (or even just a little bigger if possible, as there are a lot of 125cmx250cm sheets overhere.)
I want to order everything as complete as possible.
So if i can get some confirmation on my following list, I would be very grateful.
• LowRider v3 Hardware kit
• LowRider v3 Printed Parts with Metal XZ Plates
• SKR pro and touchscreen
â—‹ The jackpot is without touchscreen?
• Belt that comes with the kit is long enough (7342 total)
• Precut YZ plates
• Makita collet
• Makita tool mount
• Thread locker
Buy or build apart from kit
• Y Rail (25x2mm stainless steel) 2816mm (can 2 tubes be connected, or would that interfere with accuracy)
• 2x x Rail 1430mm
• Router
• Table
• Vacuum hose
• Strut plates? I couldnt find them in the kit list.
4x8
This is what is needed for a 4’ x 8’ (1.2m x 2.4m) build. You will need more or less depending on what size you build.
• 14x M8 x 40mm 5/16” x 1.5”
• 14x M8 Nylock nuts 5/16” Nylock
• 100x M5 x 30mm Machine Screws
• 100x M5 Nylock None
• 44x M3 x 10mm Machine Screws
• 10x M2.5 x 12mm Machine Screws
• 24x 3mm x 12mm Wood/metal #4 x ½” Wood or Sheet metal screws
• *22x M4 x 12mm+ Wood/metal #8 x ½“+ Screws to mount things to your table
This assumes that you already have a 1/4" Makita router. The 1/4" collet that comes with the router can be removed and replaced with a 1/8" collet from V1E.
You will also need a variety of end mills (bits). 1/8" single flutes and/or long 1/8 single flutes from the V1 store are popular, although you could also peruse Amazon.
You list all of the machine screws, but they are included in the V1 Hardware Kit. You may find that you need a few extra screws or nylocs for various tool holders/adaptors that you may decide to add to the stock build, but you can usually find these at a local hardware store (not necessarily the big box variants)
No, you want one piece. Two pieces joined together won’t work. Try Metal Supermarket as a possible source. Or for a cheaper/more available option, use 3/4" EMT conduit (comes in 10’ lengths) for the Y rail (print the correct rail blocks). There aren’t really any downsides to using EMT for the Y rail.
25mm x 2mm stainless for the X rails (x2) is fine, although 3/4" EMT conduit can also be used if desired (cheaper), but personally I think that the Stainless Steel option adds extra rigidity (desirable).
(Edit -
It sounds like you may be in Europe, in which case 3/4" EMT may not be an option. I suggest a search of the forum, as there are a few threads discussing EU tube/pipe options,
Do you mean for the gantry? The gantry strut plates are cut using the LR3 (once you do an initial build with the printed temporary struts). Look in the documentation for the strut calculator, and it will create a CAM file specific to your build’s dimensions. You can also search the forum for a lot of customized versions that may appeal to you.
Lots of different table ideas on the forum, but any reasonably flat surface will do.
This assumes that you have some sort of dust collection system. This can range from a shop-vac to a fully plumbed cyclonic system. Depends on your budget and tolerance for dust in your workspace. Hose size (and printed dust shoe size) will vary based on which system you end up using.
Well, assuming that you aren’t in the USA that means that 3/4" conduit probably isn’t available where you are, but you should be able to find 25mm tube in adequate lengths. Someone might be better able to help you find a supplier if we know your location. I would suggest thst you look for 18mm tube for the Y rail. Generally cheaper and plenty adequate to the task. I believe that the Y rail holders are available in this size as well. Certainly they can be 3D printed this size.
As mentioned you cut your own strut plates as an early project for the LR3. This works best if the Y dimension is longer than your X dimension by at least a few hundred mm.
Sorry, I forgot to mention.
I am in Europe. (In the Netherlands)
I do have a cordless makita router, but I am buying another one with a plug.
I listed all the screws, because, they are separately listed under hardware. But now I see, only the parts with the *, are not included in the kit, for both lists.
For the tube, is 2mm thickness rigid enough? then it is no problem finding it.
My workshop/garage, has yet to be transformed. Most of my tools are usually in my van. Not sure about the dust collection method yet, but for now I will keep using the vac I use for my work.
Thank you for your replies.
I now am confident about buying, the kit and assembling it.
Hope that i will be as confident about using it.
However, because you are wanting to do a full sheet size CNC table, let me say a bit more. “Reasonably flat” is much easier on small tables, small CNC’s. Any lack of flatness is easier to compensate for on a smaller area surface. The same relative lack of flatness becomes more of an issue … the larger a CNC table is. For instance, surfacing a spoil board to get flatness does not have to cut deep on a small spoil board, but on a larger one, it can require much deeper cuts even if the lack of flatness was relatively the same.
By the same token, how much flatness you really need, is dependent on what you plan to do with it. Profile cuts that are full depth cuts, can easily compensate for a substantial lack of flatness by cutting deeper than the material thickness, and gouging the spoil board in places. Where flatness is pretty much required, is for pocketing, carving, v-bit lettering and designs, etc. The over-compensate trick for profile cuts does not apply for those operations.
I struggled continually with my first table, which was two long “Paulk workbench” type torsion boxes bolted to each other, resting on a support structure I built from lumber.
I have been substantially happier with my second table, which is one continuous torsion box (full size), resting on the previous Paulk benches (but with shims added based on laser level checking, not aiming for level, but using the leveling plane to aim for flatness), all of which was still on the same support structure as before, but after working to bolster and strengthen the support.
I made and posted two videos on my second table build process.
1.
2.
A torsion box is not necessary, to be clear. There are various ways to get going without one. Still, for full size rigs, any method you choose, will face challenges not felt as badly on smaller tables.
Speaking of torsion box tables, a lot can be found here on the forum by searching for “Parametric table.”
Ryan (founder of V1E) first proposed the idea of a parametric design for a torsion box table, posted here: Parametric Table
If just making through cuts, “reasonably flat” can include more variance (still should aim for less than 2mm), which can be overcome with a deeper cut depth with the tradeoff of more/deeper cutting into the spoil board. Almost any table design can work for this. (My assumption was that you would be doing mostly through cuts, hence the “any reasonably flat surface” comment…)
Carving, pocketing, signs, lettering, detail work, etc. is a completely different beast. The flatter (not necessarily level) the better, and if you can get it down to less than 1mm variance, then a surfacing of the spoil board will give you great results. @DougJoseph’s parametric torsion box is a great design, very adaptable to customization, and is very popular among builders on the forum. Doug also has several customized printable designs/modifications that you might want to check out…
