If I’m reading things correctly, I’d use the I2C pins for the CAN breakout to the eddy.
1 Like
I’m 99.9% sure that’s how I did mine. But I am not sure what the difference is between the version I have and the new one you got.
Yeah that’s different than mine, and looks much much better. Read and make sure the eddy has the 120 resistor in it already. And then don’t put the jumper for the 120R on the ebb36
what I’m reading is the pins are before the ebb36, so I need the 120r on the ebb36 jumped
1 Like
Ok good deal. Hopefully that means the Eddy doesn’t have a resistor in it. You’ll find out soon enough if you have communication or not 
Ok. Minor progress this evening, but I stopped to go read a book 
ebb36 is flashed with katapult
ebb36 is wired via CAN to U2C
ebb36 is flashed with klipper via katapult over CAN
USB-C hub added and just sitting in bottom of the electronics box. I may not need this anymore. Need to setup the eddy before I take it out, though.
klipper sees the ebb36 mcu
New DIN rail mount is printed for U2C, but I want to print another version with some wire management for the 4-pin connector.
Next steps:
- btt eddy design mount, flash klipper (via usb), plug in to ebb36. I already have the wiring harness made that breaks out the CAN wires from the power wires
- install brake
- print new U2C DIN mount
- cut up current umbilical and plug everything into the EBB36 (saving this for last as it freaks me out)
2 Likes
This point is where things start feeling good with it. If you can flash it over can then your network is set up right on the pi and your wiring is correct. Great job!
Nothing to be scared of. Its just little wires All jokes aside, the first time I did this I was nervous as can be, but its not near as bad as you would think. Hardest part is figuring out the best way to route everything so it can be secure and proper length. The better you can get this the better your Shaketune results will be.
2 Likes
Lol nerd. 
2 Likes
Only if was a manual to something.
1 Like
Currently working my way through the Expanse book series. Finished book 3 last night and bought book 4.
In printer news… I’ve also been slowly flattening my build plate through the use of copious amounts of aluminum foil. Still not great but better than the .8mm I started off with. I’m really thinking I need to buy a new magnetic sheet and pull this one off and surface the Aluminum plate. There’s a high spot in the one corner that’s f’n everything up. And it’s not a ‘tilt’ issue. The plate just goes up in that corner. You can see it with a flat edge.
2 Likes
Already tried 4 point leveling instead of 3 to see if that helps reduce overall variance to acceptable tolerance? Guess 4 point z-tilt might balance out the pivot twist a bit.
I lent the first one to a student and she lost it… Already reordered it. You can see when I started reading the series, shortly after the last one came out, when the small paperback hadn’t been released. 
The series brought me to the books. The series is also awesome, since the original writers were involved. All the changes make sense for TV.
no. I didn’t try that yet.
4 point tilt helped me, 0.37mm instead of 0.65 with 3 point…
Also, for my build, some of the “plate twist” was contributed to by how linear rail was mounted to the 2020, and/or frame’s overall skew.
one step closer. Still designing the mount. Eddy is connected via CAN off of the EBB36. The resistor jumper is in place on the EBB36
1 Like
I had to loosen up the tolerance to <. 4mm for the 4 corner test and still had to add some aluminum to the lowest corner. But I’m down to a max difference of .25ishmm. It could still be better but I ran out of testing time for now.
1 Like
Because I absolutely suck (and hate) trying to design fan shrouds. I just modified the existing one to shove an eddy off the side of it.
1 Like
Got enough clearance at the front of your printer bed that the fan won’t hit the front door? Built my v4 frame a touch too small, and ended up needing to make a skinnier fan shroud (that’s compatible with probrwr’s mount for EBB36 + BLTouch). My skinny shroud doesn’t output as much CFM as Ryan’s/Jonathan’s v4 imo because geometry is more restricted. So, may not cool as effectively, but I think it’s effective at being cool with it’s grub screw adornments.