I had been using an external buck converter to convert 24V down to 5V for the Pi, but it looks like I can eliminate it. The main power input (not motor and not bed) for the Octopus has a step-down converter (SY8368A) to generate 5V for the board, which also goes to the USB-A and J26. Nice!
I have already cut up a USB cable to power the Pi from the buck converter, so I’ll probably just tap into J26 for power. I don’t trust the TX/RX on J26 though. The Pi might be spewing boot messages on power-up (I don’t know), and TX/RX could be susceptible to noise or have a lower max baud rate, so I’ll be sticking to USB for control. I don’t think it’s possible to communicate via the Octopus USB-A, or maybe it is possible but complicated, so the second USB connection is necessary.
Still a win for me to be able to ditch the external buck converter.
Someone made something like this already? What would you tweak/add?
Making front mounted (yet another…) Pi + 3.5 TFT case, because the Pi cases on Printables only meet 99% of my requirements. Several goals, like tidying things up and hiding messy wiring. Top will be red transparent PETG. Using clear ‘Transparent’ PETG for bottom part incase MK4 inspired running lights are added. Tempted to CNC acrylic to be a press fitted left panel, but already spent bunch of time on this. Notches in the bottom are for captured pivoting arms that’ll mount to 2020, at least that’s the theory…
Cheers! Yep, have been fighting with Fusion 360 on this longer than I’d like to admit
Assembly, mount Core XY belts
Uploaded 5x sped up recording of me figuring out how to assemble the CoreXY belts. Slow playback to 0.25x if/when interested in understanding the audio of me ramble/explaining details. Audio isn’t great at 0.25x but may help with trickier steps.
The theme song for this post is “Yakety Sax”, open in separate tab while watching above video for maximum user experience.
Feedback/suggestions on better assembly sequence and techniques appreciated, cheers!
Modeled case and 2020-mounts to enable easy tilting/removal for easy modding. Added some M5 hole knockouts for optionally attaching directly to 2020/something.
Klipper, 4 point z-tilt before heightmap calibrate
Video showing z-tilt and heightmap calibrate behavior for my build, at both room temp and 60C…
Configured z-tilt to probe 4 points with relatively loose 0.4mm tolerance, one near each corner. Overall Height map variance seems to be better for it than if I try 3 point Z tilt near the pivot points. Each point is probed twice, measured values usually match exactly, or are within 0.01mm of each other. Observing BLTouch values being consistent whether plate is room temp or been heated to 60C for 5+ minutes.
My printer.cfg Z homes at 50mm/s. Am using springs and steel washers on top and below springs. Alu bed uses wheel adjust springs, only because that’s what was on hand. Otherwise 'd have ordered/used regular springs. I’m using Mike’s ( @probrwr ) carriage adapter models/stls with my BIQU H2 V2S Revo. Appreciate Mike sharing those!
Am new to klipper, sharing what I’m doing to hopefully help Mike and others. But would appreciate guidance on what/how to change and do better. Cheers!
Removed sheet metal back panel, was PITA when experimenting and making changes. Using removable panel instead, currently planning to use these clips unless someone suggests something else they’re very happy with…
Edit: Note the panel clips in github referenced above are for 1515 frame. Fortunately, the SnakeOilXY Dev recently shared a 2020 version via this SnakeOilXY Discord message.
2023-07-12: The 2020 model’s flexing arms are relatively short, causing overly stiff test print. So, have included modded version in my repo with gap edits and longer skinnier clip arms that flex more. My edits are not ideal, but they were fast to implement. The 2020 version I modified now has similar resistance/fit feel as the original 1515 model. Am printing PETG, with 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height, Cura5+.
Nope, unfortunately I didn’t make time to pester YouTubers that have influenced/entertained/edutained me for their signatures. I didn’t even make time to watch some of the chat sessions they had, hoping to view some online.
Was very happy just spending a bulk of the time meeting and chatting with people that stopped by the V1 Engineering booth.
OpenSauce was tons of fun, so much to see, lots of interesting exhibits, and exhibitors to meet and chat with. Intending to visit again next year, will fly though.
Created/shared small simple MGN12 linear rail stop block on Printables and GitHub to help hold up build plate when tinkering. Recommend PETG or something with similar flex.
Am frequently accessing controller/components under the build plate. Also, holding the plate up can help when showing off your build… Was using zip ties, but frustration drove me to create these blocks that can (loosely) live in the 2020 channel when not in use.
Took me far too long to model the PTFE guide in the background. Someone at OpenSauce.live taught me about the power of flexible materials. Planning to create a quick cone forming mold, and fill with silicone, or something else maybe? Cone shaped blob, e.g. with max rigidity near the connection.
Oh, I see what you mean. I’d either just find a convenient nearby location to cable-tie the cable to, add a mechanical ‘stake’ to cable tie it to (often in other designs you’ll see little protuberances on PCBs or parts for cable retention like that) or cable tie it to the bowden tube to provide some stability.
If you’re specifically looking to mechanically reinforce that joint, a short length of glue-filled heat shrink would do that nicely, as would likely just regular heat-shrink over the top, although with a lot more flex to it.
Assembly, mount guide for PTFE, CAN Wiring and BigTreeTech Smart Filament Sensor (BTT SFS v1.0)
Created compact tidy enclosable guide for PTFE, CAN Wiring and BTT SFS v1.0 sensor. BTT SFS can detect runout, jambs and flow issues. The PTFE Guide ideas breakout topic has design discussion details with various forum folks.
3mm ID X 4mm OD PTFE - Note large inside diameter, less filament friction, less PTFE drag, more flexible, but easier to kink. Could be an issue for brittle filaments, we’ll see…
Read instructions, including “VI. Wiring Method” which shows pinout for Voltage, Signal, Ground. Pay attention since board doesn’t have reverse voltage protection .
Question: Anyone know if removing filament should cause Klipper dashboard displayed value to transition from detected to empty? Am using BTT Smart Filament Sensor with Klipper, signal wired to Octopus v1.1, one of the endstop ports. Sensor tracks motion, isn’t just a switch. Posted same question to Klipper Forum too.
Answer:gabe.mi helped me understand that BTT Smart Filament Sensor only detects motion, so when the Extruder is not actively moving, the sensor doesn’t have enough information to infer whether filament was inserted/removed. A separate switch based sensor would be needed.
Are you using Fusion 360?
with max rigidity near the connection.
.