Heh… Amazon same day. It should arrive today with the rest of the CAN and usb-c stuff.
Looks like I’ll have some stuff to play with on Saturday.
Heh… Amazon same day. It should arrive today with the rest of the CAN and usb-c stuff.
Looks like I’ll have some stuff to play with on Saturday.
The only reason I went ahead and grabbed this is because the BTT documentation says the mainline klipper supports the Eddy now.
Oh. And I STILL need to install the z-brake ![]()
Grrr…
But. I just realized I don’t remember the last time I’ve washed this build plate and I’ve been touching it A LOT lately.
I quit Amazon when it became obvious Bezos was supporting questionable governments. Should have quit before because of the working conditions, but it was just too comfortable…
That’s the trap. Now the competition is obliterated and we’re stuck.
You should see how horribly things like neighborhood hardware stores have deteriorated over here.
Niche shops like little boutique hobby electronics outlets are pretty much not a thing like they used to be.
saving this for later
That is the one BTT recommended last time I talked to them. not sure if they ever updated the official eddy support or just use that one now.
I’m running out of USB ports and I’m not sure if the eb36 supports daisy chaining CAN off of it. Something about a resistor and I haven’t figured out if the Eddy has the resistor on it or not.
I picked up a un-powered USB hub. The plan is to move the webcam and touchscreen to the hub and leave all the controllers on the other 3 USB ports.
The 3 controllers I’ll have are
I did pick up the u2c board, so I may try to figure out if I can use CAN for eddy and ebb36. Then I’d be able to remove the hub again.
Yes it does. Just don’t put the jumper on the resistor if its not the last piece in line
Thanks. I hadn’t taken a look at the schematic yet to validate.
Also, I thought the Eddy was going to come with a metal bracket for mounting it. I didn’t get one. I’m still trying to figure out how to mount everything on the front of the stepper. Part of me wants to mount the Eddy on the back of the core to offset all the weight on the front. I don’t like how front-heavy this design is.
I was also looking at the Voron Stealth Burner this morning and thinking about a new extruder.
Additionally, I was reading about using aluminum foil to help level my heatbed mechanically. I’m going to play with that this evening.
Yeah I don’t remember mine coming with any bracket. Ryan made a mount for the V5 that we both use. Its mounted on the front with everything else lol.
I’m thinking of making an aluminum one that will hold both the fan and the eddy. Then the only 3d printed part will be the duct from the fan to the nozzle. Or, I may try metal forming a duct out of a beer can. I’ll call my new design the MP3DPv4_drunkard
On a side note… trying to modify the klipper-backup script… I usually don’t talk about other people’s code, because mine isn’t the best, but has this guy never heard of logger?
I like it!
On another side note… I need to try printing something out of TPU and ASA since making all these software changes. The duct will be the ASA test.
On a third note… If I get all this dialed in, I’ll have a spare manta m8p and cmdb board… Maybe it’s time to start a v5 build to replace the ancient geeetech printer… Hrm…
And while I’m making notes… I’ve been spending a lot of time with this printer. I notice the MDF sub-plate that the print bed is built off of has warped. It sags a lot, but since the heated bed is only mounted in the corners, the z_tilt seems to correct for it. I did buy 2 sheets of 15"x15" 3mm metal plate that I may try to remake the sub-plate out of. Not sure if I’m going to go to the trouble of doing that or not. But if I decide to try to pull the heat bed off to flatten the bed better, then I’ll replace the sub-plate at the same time. The jigsaw with a metal cutting blade is going to get a workout. I think the only parts of that plate that need to be in a perfect spot are the holes, so I can freeform the rest of it.
The subplate on my V4 is out of 1/4" aluminum if that helps at all. It makes it heavy but no issues when printing. BE SURE TO INSTALL YOUR Z BRAKES!!! My V4 smoked 2 SKR’s dropping the Z.
The sub-plate is mdf. The heatbed itself is 6mm aluminum. It’s heavy. I’m surprised I haven’t smoked any skr’s yet as I drop it like it’s hawt all the time.
I did several times before the first one smoked. And then the second one was about a month later if I remember right. Thankfully I had swapped the LR3 and Primo over to Jackpot boards by then so I had spare SKR’s lol