Bolts and adhesive on par with how Lotus Elise Alu chassis was bonded (type of epoxy)? More modern UV curable, and lower curing temp solutions exist. Hopefully some automotive/adhesive/chemical folks here will chime in?
Maybe CNC plate based core, with 3D printed jig to hold parts in place (dimensionally accurate) until adhesive cures, assuming not needing to heat cure? No idea what service temps they can support.
Never even crossed my mind to use an adhesive. That is slick.
I’ve got aluminum spool gun for my mig welder that I’m ok with. Tig welding aluminum has always been a major snag for me for some reason. I can tig steel and it look pretty good. But aluminum kicks my ass every time lol
I thought about turning the x axis 90 degrees, but you’d have to somehow put bolts through both directions. 4 for the extruder and 4 for the bearing.
Alternatively, if you twisted it so the bearing faced the back, you could use c channel so all the bolts come in from the back.
I’m using 8mm bolts to hold everything together.
Very cool. Since you’re already skilled at milling and tapping Alu…
Anyone seen, or already using, linear rail blocks that can be rear/back screwed? Like this flanged rail block, but with untapped pass through holes.
If so, could that help to simplify Core, or at least get more direct contact between linear block and Extruder? “Core plate” ends up being a milled Alu plate sandwiched between linear block and extruder. The “Core plate” ends up large enough to mount probe/EBB directly and/or via 3D printed parts. Assembly would be…
Could achieve something similar using stock rail block by using 2 milled Alu (or 3D printed?) plates sandwiched between the rail block and Extruder I guess? The MP3DP rail would need to be rotate 90deg about x axis though. Assembly would be…
Completely replacing stock linear rail block with your own Alu rail block sounds tricky. That would provide an opportunity to have longer rail block though (more stable?) .
If not a completely new linear rail block, then could maybe Alu mill and/or 3D-print single part that replaces the side seals with mounting holes for Extruder, etc…
Ideally stock extruders casings (or optional upgrade casing…) would include mount hole layout/spacing for common (?) rail block. So no shims or adaptors plate(s) are needed.
Well. I didn’t get everything finished tonight. All I have left is putting grooves in the parts where the belt teeth go. I tried to use a vbit tool I had on hand and it snapped the tip off. I have a real chamfer end mill coming in made by Niagara ($$) on Thursday. I should get it installed that evening and we’ll see how this goes.
Man glitter
Accuracy
Tapping holes
Well. The clamp works.
Sadly I screwed up on the design and the top belts don’t line up. I also forgot to account for the end stop switch.
Still looks real good though! Sucks to have to redo it but that seems to be part of it sometimes LOL
I think version 2.0 is going to be designed to be milled from a solid chunk of aluminum. I also think I’m going to order some metric end mills. Trying to do math for offsets when your design is in mm and you’re endmills are inches sucks.
Do you have a proper mill or are you planning to do that on your CNC??
NICE!!!
That is not “little”! My PM25 is little!
BTW… I really need to take a new picture. I’ve cleaned it up since that photo was taken. The machine really is white.
That looks real nice! I have the HDMI7 on mine but not mounted yet and it’s extremely annoying. I really need to come up with something lol
This is a touchscreen. I don’t have that or the octoprint gui working yet.
You’d probably hate me if you knew what I paid for it.
Like that screen, which is it and is that a pi or something else?
