One of the joys of being able to trigger print jobs on the printer in the shop from inside the house is not always seeing how much filament is on the roll…
I really need to invest in a filament sensor that works with Octoprint…
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Or add a second webcam focused on the roll.
Am already appreciating the Smart Filament Sensor on my mp3dp v4 running Klipper. The sensor has already helped detect filament clogs and auto paused the print job for me to fix cause (filament broke and jambed in biqu gears. Suspect filament end was too curly when being inserted and ended up going where it shouldn’t when being loaded).
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Almost a full build plate print. I’m printing another set now.
These are little pieces to help clamp cedar strips onto forms on the kayak I’m building. I need something like 40 of these silly things. 1 for each side of each form. I probably could have fit another row, but I’ve noticed that the heated bed wiring tends to curve up on the back of the build plate while printing and the extruder runs the risk of hitting it if it goes too far back. I need to adjust the cable management back there to make sure it bends down instead of up.
This took just over 4 hours to print. It could probably be faster, but I print the first layer pretty slow to help get it to stick. The parts are roughly 2" x 2" and 4mm thick. Sorry for the miss-matched dimensions, but I live in a complex world 
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Bump your skirt distance out just a little more and it won’t waste the time printing in the notch on that first row. Looking real good. I think I FINALLY have mine printing good. Still have some more fine tuning to do but it producing quality prints now consistently so I’m very happy
Meh. The skirt distance is a trade off of total build size and complexity.
And the fact I’m lazy and never really change my print settings from print to print for PLA. The extra 30 seconds it took to print those notches is minimal on a 4 hour print.
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I get that completely. I hate having to change things. Then I have to remember to go back and change it later lol. I really need to learn how to use the different profiles lol
Amen!!!
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Using this as the solution to make the stupid red box go away
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Can you show how you use these on the cedar strips?
I’ll be taking pictures later this morning when I throw them up on Printables.
They’re used with clamps to hold the strips to the forms. If you watch Nick Schade’s videos on YouTube you’ll see him using plywood versions. I just liked the idea of using plastic so glue didn’t stick to them.
link to a post with a link to the jigs
For those new to the thread and have been following links.
This is the Heater I used in my build.
A bit more information regarding the Heater setup… copied from a PM:
Yup. Same SSR as the bed heater. I trigger the SSR with the 12V output from a smaller relay that’s used to turn the 12v fan on.
I trigger the relay directly off of the Raspberry Pi using a home-grown Pi plugin that I wrote
The two relay boards I’m using can just barely be seen on a bright green mount in the middle of this picture just to the left of the SSRs. One is used to turn on the fan in the top of the cabinet for exhaust, the second turns on the Heater fan and heater SSR.
You can also see the back of the heater fan in the bottom left corner. I 3d printed a fan mount to marriage the fan to the heater.
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I finally started working on the aluminum core today. I almost got one part finished and broke the tap off in the part. I really dislike cheap taps.
Luckily, the part is salvageable. I really don’t think the bottom brace needs all 3 bolts. I’ll continue with what I have and of this works, I’ll make a replacement.
The plan is to make all the parts, then go back and add lightening holes all over to reduce weight.
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Just need to tap some holes and these three parts are done.
Then I need to make the two belt clamps and a brace and I’ll be ready to test it out.
Assuming it fits.
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That’s going to be so cool if it works. Cant wait to see it in action!
I am watching to see your Belt mounts. I have some ideas for V4…but you are a few steps ahead of me.
Did you 3d print a test part for fit, or did you go full wild man and just go straight to metal?
I 3d printed test parts to make sure the design lined up. I did not install the 3d printed design onto the machine.
I have lots of extra material to redesign parts if needed.
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I was considering something similar. Either a single bend, or how many can I TIG together in an hour? I might just have to turn the rail so it is a flat sheet instead.
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