I put the 4 holes in because I think the Lite verson with the volcano hot end has 4. Wanted to make is somewhat universal. The fan should mount to the left looking at it.
The H2 should line up even with both ends. Put a little Loctite on the screws as you can not retighten the top on with the carriage mounted to the rail block.
Mount the extruder BEFORE mounting to the rail block.
As you eluded to, the slots are much wider on this carriage for the upper belts. It is way easier to get them in the slot, but they donât hold. My belts are about 1 inch shorter than they should be to work well. I found a way to get them on, but I think the belts are too tight now. I may need to order another round of belt material.
Next:
The work progressesâŚ
Have electronics box under my 250x250 bed too, barely fits, width/depth/height are all tight. Needed to raise bottom Z belt holders by 20mm so Z Posts donât crash into electronics box. Made simple stop block to hold bed up when working on interior. For access, recommend at least the rear panel be removable if youâre putting electronics under the bed. However removable rear panel could compromise overall rigidity/squareness 
. Could avoid rear panel being removable if you come up with a quick connect/disconnect method for electronics box, I started going down that path, but failed to fully pull that off for my build.
Your stop block could work. Iâll print a few of those once I get it going. I can likely use the rail stops that shipped with the linear slides until then.
I added vertical length to the frame so the bottom of the lower horizontal extrusions below the z axis mounts is 3" (75 mm) to the table. Will the electronics fit in a 12" x 12" x 4" (300 mm x 300 mm x 100 mm) enclosure?
The idea is the top of the box will go over the horizontal extrusion but below the z belts and the bottom of the box will rest on the table. With printed feet plus the thickness of the extrusion, the system âfloorâ will be about 4" off the table. It seems large enough in theory⌠I was going to use wood for the top and bottom with acrylic for the vertical parts and for the lid. probably should spend time on function before form at this point though.
I mounted all the electronics on the back. I have a hinged door and have easy access to everything.
Very likely, depending on whatâs going inside.
Currently, managed to fit Octopus, SSR, 5V PSU plus misc connector blocks inside 220mm (w) x 335mm (d) x 80mm (h). 24v PSU is bolted to right side of extrusion based electronics case. Overall width including 24v PSU ended up being 260mm. PI+3.5" TFT stick out front. Electronic box probably needs additional cooling, and insulation from print chamber.
Mounting electronics elsewhere wouldâve been easier. Put electronics here for low center of mass and try to minimize overall height.
I made a temporary electrical side mount to test motor function before cleaning up the wires. Need to solder a power switch and flash the controller, but it is getting real.
The other reason for the side is I will need to make a wire extension set for all the wires from the extruder trolley because they are not long enough to reach the bottom. as it sits, no extra wires need to be made for initial testingâŚ
All my electronics are bolted to a bottom plate and hung from underneath the machine. I used ACM panel for it and cut it on the MPCNC but it could just as easily been done by hand.
are you using can bus to the carriage with the hot end?
Yes, think Mike uses EBB36. Am using the mount he designed and shared 
Weâre both using stranded Cat cable.
@azab2c is correct. The holes o. The top of the mount are for standoffs to mount either the EBB36 or 42. A standard standoff should screw right in.
Can bus would make it so I donât have to extend a ton of wiresâŚ
True. For me, there was a learning curve, ran into some issues that took time to understand and work through. For example, needed to replace an unresponsive/malfunctioning EBB36. Glad for the experience though, had been looking for an opportunity to learn about CAN bus.
I agree with @azab2c . Look at my build and i linked all the articles i used. I did the Manta MP8 with a CB1 and couldnt be happier with it.
The bulk of the wires on my other Hypercube builds compared to thsi is staggering.
So I need a part cooling fan mount for the H2V2S⌠Any thoughts?
Oh, and in case anyone cares: no, Iâm not embarrassed of the wiring spaghetti photo from before. My son is embarrassed for me because he is super anal about tidy wiring. I told him when Iâm done he should be marginally ok with it, but not likely proud. Who else decases all their electronics so they can exactly space components to look perfect⌠not this guy.
Lol, yeah, I spent wasted lots of time making my electronics pretty.
My experience is that the same folks that put effort into making wiring clean also end up with wiring that doesnât snag, work free, pinch, bind, or shortâŚ
In other words, rats nests are often broken. Clean setups generally are not.
Served me wrong⌠Just ordered another octopus. The smoke was released with a little flash of light and a pop. I just wanted a mockup to see if motor movement and thermal sensors were functional before cleaning it up and first power killed it.
I will add that just because the wires were not pretty doesnât mean they were not in the correct place. This isnât my first rodeo. Likely user error for sure, but no idea what happened. The silver box on the half of the board opposite the USB smoked. But one of the 2209s arced nearest the USB and lit up for a split second before the pop and smoke.
I agree with your comments that clean builds tend to last longer and not fail with normal use and are simpler to service in the long run. The effort to clean up was to come after the functional test so I didnât have to rerun wires in the loom and rethread and attach again. I had no plans to actually run it in that shape other than verify the wiring, directions, channels, etc. The comment was about the fact that even my efforts to clean up to ensure reliability would still not be sufficient for my boy who is super meticulous about itâŚ
Sorry for your board loss. Killed my SKR too, didnât ground properly before changing wiring while board was powered up. Wiring at 3am didnât help.
Any ideas on why board died? Unlike SKR, I didnât need to clip/bend TMC2209âs diag pins before installing drivers onto my Octopus V1.1
The Ethernet port for CAN bus smoked, or something else?
