I mounted all the electronics on the back. I have a hinged door and have easy access to everything.
Very likely, depending on whatās going inside.
Currently, managed to fit Octopus, SSR, 5V PSU plus misc connector blocks inside 220mm (w) x 335mm (d) x 80mm (h). 24v PSU is bolted to right side of extrusion based electronics case. Overall width including 24v PSU ended up being 260mm. PI+3.5" TFT stick out front. Electronic box probably needs additional cooling, and insulation from print chamber.
Mounting electronics elsewhere wouldāve been easier. Put electronics here for low center of mass and try to minimize overall height.
I made a temporary electrical side mount to test motor function before cleaning up the wires. Need to solder a power switch and flash the controller, but it is getting real.
The other reason for the side is I will need to make a wire extension set for all the wires from the extruder trolley because they are not long enough to reach the bottom. as it sits, no extra wires need to be made for initial testingā¦
All my electronics are bolted to a bottom plate and hung from underneath the machine. I used ACM panel for it and cut it on the MPCNC but it could just as easily been done by hand.
Motor wire go up at the corners through holes with TPU grommets in them and the hole in the center goes to the cable chain to the bed.
1 Like
are you using can bus to the carriage with the hot end?
Yes, think Mike uses EBB36. Am using the mount he designed and shared 
Weāre both using stranded Cat cable.
@azab2c is correct. The holes o. The top of the mount are for standoffs to mount either the EBB36 or 42. A standard standoff should screw right in.
Can bus would make it so I donāt have to extend a ton of wiresā¦
True. For me, there was a learning curve, ran into some issues that took time to understand and work through. For example, needed to replace an unresponsive/malfunctioning EBB36. Glad for the experience though, had been looking for an opportunity to learn about CAN bus.
I agree with @azab2c . Look at my build and i linked all the articles i used. I did the Manta MP8 with a CB1 and couldnt be happier with it.
The bulk of the wires on my other Hypercube builds compared to thsi is staggering.
So I need a part cooling fan mount for the H2V2Sā¦ Any thoughts?
Oh, and in case anyone cares: no, Iām not embarrassed of the wiring spaghetti photo from before. My son is embarrassed for me because he is super anal about tidy wiring. I told him when Iām done he should be marginally ok with it, but not likely proud. Who else decases all their electronics so they can exactly space components to look perfectā¦ not this guy.
Lol, yeah, I spent wasted lots of time making my electronics pretty.
My experience is that the same folks that put effort into making wiring clean also end up with wiring that doesnāt snag, work free, pinch, bind, or shortā¦
In other words, rats nests are often broken. Clean setups generally are not.
1 Like
Served me wrongā¦ Just ordered another octopus. The smoke was released with a little flash of light and a pop. I just wanted a mockup to see if motor movement and thermal sensors were functional before cleaning it up and first power killed it.
I will add that just because the wires were not pretty doesnāt mean they were not in the correct place. This isnāt my first rodeo. Likely user error for sure, but no idea what happened. The silver box on the half of the board opposite the USB smoked. But one of the 2209s arced nearest the USB and lit up for a split second before the pop and smoke.
1 Like
I agree with your comments that clean builds tend to last longer and not fail with normal use and are simpler to service in the long run. The effort to clean up was to come after the functional test so I didnāt have to rerun wires in the loom and rethread and attach again. I had no plans to actually run it in that shape other than verify the wiring, directions, channels, etc. The comment was about the fact that even my efforts to clean up to ensure reliability would still not be sufficient for my boy who is super meticulous about itā¦
1 Like
Sorry for your board loss. Killed my SKR too, didnāt ground properly before changing wiring while board was powered up. Wiring at 3am didnāt help.
Any ideas on why board died? Unlike SKR, I didnāt need to clip/bend TMC2209ās diag pins before installing drivers onto my Octopus V1.1
The Ethernet port for CAN bus smoked, or something else?
there are two blue fuses horizontal in the picture. below the right one is a capacitor and below that is a vertical surface mount cap and below that is a square silver box (1R5). Not sure if that is an inductor, but it smoked. the arc came from the 2209 closest to the usb at the bottom and before I could power it off, it popped and smoked.
Iām not really happy with my BQ luck right now. As it stands, only 1 of the three boards Iāve gotten from them is functional. My SKR on the primo is chugging along. The E3V3 upgrade for my ender is bricked and this octopus is toast. Plus the brand new SD card that was in this board fried as well.
I jumpered the board as outlined in the voron documentation since its setup is going to be only slightly different than the voron.
It was late last night, there were too many things plugged in to start with and I needed a $60 piece of humble pie. I will encourage all to go slow and do one thing at a timeā¦ even if youāve done this a few times before.
I.am generally very careful with my wiringā¦ but not super neat.
My MP3DP v3 is still a bit of a mess. Not quite āratās nestā but not where Iād really like. I tend to stop when things work.
My v4 is ā¦ well not much better. I tried to do a little better with the initial design, so it has some nice wire runs, but once again, once it all worksā¦
That is what I thought I was but I have this cognitive dissonance thing going on where things are just not as they seemā¦
but it is just a board and thankfully can be easily replaced.
What a bummer to see that the Octopus board was damaged.
Youāre off to a good start of the build and Iām watching with interest.
I should elaborate a bit on the whole organized vs rats nest thing. Itās my nature to want to just hook things up quickly and test- just as you did. That has never served me great either, and as Iāve gone along Iāve spent a lot of forcing myself to slow down, clean up, organize, route better, etc. That has served me well at work and the things Iāve worked on over the last few decades have gone up in value by about 6 orders of magnitude. So I tend to over do it. Thatās got a lot of down sides as well.
It means I tend to stall out and take a long time building things and I have no shortage of unfinished projects and stopped or abandoned plans. Thatās not great, either.
I get both sides of the āPerfect is the enemy of good enoughā debate.
Iām really curious about what happened to that Octopus board. Mostly since it seems there is a lot of boards getting fried, and though it isnāt possible to protect against every mistake it does strike me that there is way too little protection in these boards for things that could be made less likely to get toasted
It seems the most common failure is hooking up an endstop wrong, or a user hot-mating or hot de-mating a connector while the board is powered. Just thinking out loud what could be done to make that less likely or less damaging.
When I used to host 3d printer help days at the local makerspace, it was amazing to me how often Iād see severely smoked boards. Thatās only partly the usersā fault. I suppose there isnāt much downside for the low end board manufacturers to skimp on protective features because every smoked board is a fresh new sale.
To pop two fuses and arc a 2209 is a pretty significant event. Do you have any other recollection of what may have gone wrong?
(Edited to change SKR to Octopus, since thatās what the board is)
1 Like