MP3DP V4 Build

I’m sure that the issue you’re having is with the F429 that is on your version of the Octopus.
There’s a funky nuance with that, and getting the bootloader flashed.
I’ve seen it before but don’t remember all the details and my web searches weren’t turning up anything particularly helpful.

I’m a little hesitant to throw out other ideas as I don’t want to tell you to try something that could brick your board- and I don’t have an Octopus to test with.

This is the problem with families of materials all called the same thing. Some ASA has a Tgt that is up much higher, and apparently some has a Tgt that is fairly low. It seems that using a material with the lower Tgt for your core is something of a step back- as the whole reason you wanted to use a different material was to take advantage of the higher glass transition point. If it’s really down there around 80C, then frankly you’d be better off with PETG than such a low transition ASA.

Maybe reconsider whether you have the correct material choice if you find the Tgt of your material is actually around 80C

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It may as well be bricked now so go for it. I wont hold you responsible at all. I am the one that got it to this situation lol. Worst case it goes in the trash as a learning experiment lol. I still have 2-3 spare SKR Pros laying around so no shortage of boards here,

I need to look up and see what the temp for this material is. I’m honestly not sure at all.

Re-reading from above, when you tried to flash, you set the boot jumper pin, and hit reset for 5+ seconds to properly put it in DFU mode, right?

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Yes sir that is correct. And after that I can type lsusb and it will show up in dfu mode

Also, as I’m studying this, you’ve removed all the other connections? (Apparently if the heated bed is connected, for example, it screws up)

Have you tried using the STM32 programmer instead of the RPi?

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Yes sir. Board is as naked as it gets…

Yes, with USB and with a ST Link Programmer…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQV6VLZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

But the only thing I did with STM32 was try and flash the bootloader to repair the DFU. I did not try to put katapult/canboot on it with STM32.

That would be my suggestion…

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Ok. Im almost done putting this ASA core on then I will give it a shot. Thank you!

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katapult says it went…

klipper as well…

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So did you revive the octopus?

As of right now no. Got to the same spot I got hung up at when I originally tried it. Cant get a uuid from it. I stopped messing with it at that point. Going to look at it more later tonight. Too many irons hot right this second LOL. Will report back with screen shots a little later

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Not looking like I will be messing with it tonight. Just smoked another SKR Pro (2nd one this week :man_facepalming: ) I will probably mess with it in the morning before I get started on anything else.

In other news, what decent but cheap hot air station would y’all suggest for a new to hot air soldering guy? Since I have 2 blown boards here, both in the same exact way, I wouldn’t mind giving it a shot and seeing if I can fix them. Not like I can make them more broken LOL.

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That’s a bummer!! How are you smoking them?

Are you smoking small components like voltage regulators, or cratering the STMs :wink: . ?

Curious what people recommend? Been looking to buy one too.

Quick 957DW is recommended by a few people I follow. Not crazy expensive, but definitely priced more than some of the current amzn best sellers. I appreciate best selling doesn’t indicate decent though…

Dodgy wiring because I knew I had to bring it all out of the enclosure on the first one. Bed crash got it. Was at the computer and heard the crash, looked over and saw a bic lighter sized flame

This one I had the board and everything out of the enclosure and had to reset Z for some reason. Keep forgetting that any time you save config in klipper it’s going to reset which means bed is coming down. Was standing right there looking at it when it smoked.

Board number one a few days ago…

Board number 2 tonight…

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Non blown up one for reference…

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Quick amazon search shows several in the $45-80 range. Of course being the first time I will ever attempt to do a repair like this I would prefer to stay cheap. If I find its something I use quite often and want a better one I can always upgrade later and use the cheapo to melt heat shrink lol. But at the same time I don’t want to get the cheapest out there and fail the repair because of that.

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Makes sense. Hoping someone chimes in with recommendation(s)…

IIRC you have two 1/4 Alu plates, the heated bed, and the bed support plate that mounts on the Z posts? Another fellow board killer on the forum (where’s my badge?) was happy with “constant force spring” steel (?) coils they added to each Z post, it helped balance the weight more so the bed is less guillotine during reset? I forget who.

I was thinking about it today and wondered what I could do. I do think most of my problem is its just so heavy. I’ve been thinking about ditching the lower aluminum plate for something else. I’ve got a piece of 1/4" MDF that is big enough but idk if that would be good or not. I see some go with extrusions and I guess that would be a good route too. I just don’t know which way I want to go yet.

As far as fixing the boards I don’t have a whole lot of confidence I can get it handled lol. I’ve seen plenty of YouTube videos of guys fixing circuit boards and such. I’ve always just thought there’s no way I can manage that. But when the second one went up in smoke today I thought why not try. If one of these $45 range hot air stations will work and I get one repair made then I broke even just about. If I don’t get either repaired then it wasn’t a huge learning expense, well not much more than it already is with 2 dead boards.

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Started a new thread for the hot air station.

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