Hello! I have a table top already that I want to add super struts to a use for a 4’x8’ LR4 table. The table is 4’x9’ right now and I need to add around 12” of width so that it’s 5’x9’. See pics. Is this possible? How would you do this? Also should the top face of the superstrut be on the same plane as the spoil board? Thanks
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Welcome @Binky1135 !
Have you already figured out how you want to route your shop vac and wiring?
I see a shop vac under the bench, guessing you’re looking to use that? Am asking because I’ve seen some people (@bitingmidge I think) augment an existing bench on just one side to extend out in a way that they also end up with a channel/gutter for their shop vac to collapse into much like a drag chain.
Not trying to dissuade you from $uper $truts, am just throwing out some ideas to add to the confusion help. Cheers!
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Hi, I haven’t seen that table @vicious1 ’s table. Can either of you link it? I’m definitely interested in that option. That this point though, I am interested in any viable option, as I am a 1/10 woodworker.
Here you go. Tons of pics and the CAD link…
Thanks! I have seen this great torsion box.
I ment this bitingmidge’s table extension but accidentally tagged vicious lol.
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I think he meant this:
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Yep, that’s the one, cheers Mike!
Also… @PKochZ71 managed to route 1-1/2" Vac hose inside the Y rail, helping to minimize overall table width (i.e. total footprint)…
So… For people extending width of an existing bench, and wanting to end up with a drag vac hose setup for larger 2-1/2" hose, one option might be to make a variant of PKochZ71’s and bitingmidge’s setups.
There’s simpler options too… Hopefully some folks will share pics of their ‘final’ Super Strut builds, and/or similar outrigger table setups over on the $200 Full sized Lowrider table, Non-CNC Build topic.
I have a superstrut table, and while I love the metal running surfaces, I don’t know that I’d build a new superstrut table at this juncture. There would be other simpler ways to achieve metal running surfaces without the superstrut, and practically I’m not sure how much the surface really means on tables constructed primarily of sheet goods. (Wood movement and all.) In fact, it really only adds anything on the non-rail side since the rail is already a metal surface.
On the LR3 I “hid” the belts to protect them, but its absolutely not worth the trade off for me with the LR4.
If you’re really talking about adding 6” to each side, I feel like you could keep it simple and just add 3/4” sheet goods for the top, then another 3/4” for the spoilboard and rails. A few angle supports on the overhang would plenty suffice. In fact, if you glued them to the top and pocket screwed them to the table, you could easily remove it if you ever decided to use the table for another purpose.
Thank you for sharing Mike
Yea I am pretty much fixating on the superstruts because I am wanting the metal running surface. I saw someone post their torsion box table and the top surface was beginning to wear a groove! I do not want that. I may just do a simple extension with angle iron or wood wings or something, then figure out a metal running surface after that. We shall see!
Thank you for sharing and helping!
Most folks would be overjoyed if the were getting enough run time on the machine to wear a groove in the table.
You might be fixating on something you will have a long time before you have it impacting you.
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I think that depends somewhat on the material you choose for the top sheet.
I built my (non-torsion box) table with a plywood top sheet. Within 3-5 hours of use. ruts started to develop where the roller wheels ran, especially near YMin, where most of the motion occurred. 
That plywood (Factory Select grade) was really soft!
I threw a sheet of 3/8” MDF on top, and after many hours, there aren’t any signs of ruts or grooves.
But I agree, a metal running surface isn’t a necessity. MDF will work fine!
I posted something similar (not an actual torsion box, but definitely grooved). Was it that post that you saw?
No, I saw this post on fb v1eng group. A guy named Peter Babagian. The wear looks much worse than even yours. I am not sure what to do. I am thinking about if some kind of brush on expoxy might work well on top of this lane of the MDF, to make it hard and hold together well.
I don’t do Facebook.
That looks like a problem with the paint/primer on the running surface. Was it MDF or LDF?
I don’t do production work with my LR4 but don’t see any hint of erosion on simple big box 3/4 MDF elevator plates.
Don’t use a soft material for the non-rail side,which includes paint or coatings.
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I think it was primed MDF. But yea I won’t use any of that in my build.
that was indeed my post and that was primed MDF… and the bearing wheels did wear a rut. I decided, when I get time, to cruise by some cabinet shops and ask for scrap formica/wilsonart, etc. all the same of course and will use contact cement to glue that down on the non-rail side. that will alleviate any grooving. that will be my temp fix as I venture to build a table entirely out of uni strut channel… why? for no other reason except it sounds like a cool project (and I loved having an erector set as a kid). Also, Although I have built the full sheet sized table, have yet to cut a full sheet of anything. The new table will accommodate 48” x 60” or there abouts and be quite mobile with locking 5” swivel casters. I will keep the larger table top on hand in the event I need it, but if not used by end of year… it will be recycled. 
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Surprisingly common. I built a 4x8 table top when I started on a LR3, which I had recycled by the time my project had morphed into a beta LR4- and with a 24”x60”+ table. I still think I want a 4x8 “someday” but have yet to actually cut anything that size.
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NOICE. Thanks for the info!
My LR3 table is 5’ long, so not even a full sheet, and other than movement tests, I have never used more than half.
I do have projects planned which will require full sheet capability. Eventually.
My LR4 is quarter sheet, plus an inch in X/Y. I have never cut anything on the last 18" or so of that either, with one of the most prominent cuts on the last half the machine’s own strut plates. I have put quarter sheet material on the spoilboard though, so there’s that.
My rollers run on birch plywood, which seems to be holding up fine, but I do like the idea of high pressure laminate to run on.
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