I grabbed that from somewhere and did a quick edit on it, I think. I do not have a RAMBo board, so this was a composite from the documetion.
Uh… Z2 goes to X Max. X goes to X Min.
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Ugh - my typo thank-you - I have corrected above.
I’m surprised the photo isn’t in the docs - will try to make an edit suggestion. And now my senility is catching up with me - it’s THERE! AAARGGH!
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I’m over my little panic from yesterday thanks very much, and am surprised that when all was said and done, thanks to hanging around with you lot and listening to conversations comprising of nothing but acronyms and number sequences, I have absorbed almost enough knowledge to be dangerous, but not so much that I think I can do it without you watching on!
Now something I CAN do:-
I am often horrified to see YouTube “experts” hold up a bucket of prototype parts that they’d generated in order to come up with one that finally fitted/worked/looked OK. I have been surprised also in the past at the reaction of people when I suggest that this is an awful waste of time and plastic; I’m not saying don’t prototype, but you don’t have to reprint the entire part just to test a small area.
Just slice whatever bit you need and do a quick, fast mockup to check only the area of concern. If I need a lid to fit something or a pipe fitting, I usually just print a three or four layer slice - or enough to make it firm enough to do the job.
My apologies to those of you for whom this is obvious. Here’s my final check fit of the “other side” fender which is printing now.
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Now, i a know i ahve been absent for a couple weeks or at best only casually looking due to time and mental health issues, but I just cant leave you alone for a couple weeks Peter!
all I can say is WOW and I want some.
I especially love the embossed art deco names, my 2c, make it a cut out, throw a carved bit of acrylic behind and edge light the acrylic to match/ offset your colour scheme. Orange in your case, or RED on black lower covers in my case.
(if i was any good with image editing i would mod the photo, but i am no, soz)
But wow, Peter, @vicious1 if there is a hall of fame for mods, this would have to be up there at no1 for looks (and dust protection)
@DougJoseph maybe you can use your evil sign making skills for good…
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Why do I open my big mouth and set myself up to fail? 
It’s only been a day since I wrote that with regard to my “modular box” in the beam, and as it happens I spent a bit of fretting time in the middle of the night sorting out what I think I’m going to do with it.
It’s probably best just to finish it and do a show and tell - but I’ve just tweaked all the little modules slightly in finer detail as well as the end pieces so that it will be easy to adapt for any width I think. I can’t get around my own design criteria which will make it a lot more fiddly to build than simply screwing on a box.
I’m having a think about a similar box at the other end too, to house a panel mount socket for the router, and to allow hidden routing of the Right hand side cabling through a conduit (a shiny chromed one of course). The power supply will be mounted on the conduit exposed (shudder) and I think that will leave me with an inch or two of cabling that you’ll be able to see if you peer through the slots in the tops of the braces! 
On another note - while trying to talk myself out of Painting the orange top covers silver as per my original intent, I noticed that the light on the Core produces exactly the two toned effect I had envisioned in that sketch above, which is pretty cool. The silver is not quite the right colour, but it’s closer than the orange so it will have to do.
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Final 240V wiring might just be held up for a week, while a mottley collection of plugs, pins, connectors and even a box of disposable gloves wend their weary and ever so slow way here.
But I built the stealthy mount for the power supply, a tidy little bracket that clamps to the conduit that will conceal the low voltage stuff as it crosses to the board. Yes, I know I could have just screwed it onto the brace, but that would have taken four screws, and my way takes only two, and I get to make some nifty little clamps to hold the conduit in place too…
It’s pretty much invisible I’d say.
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Long, beautiful thread. Did anyone suggest putting an LED in the V1 logo on the side covers? I saw that Chris mentioned edge-lit acrylic, and that could be interesting, too.
Alternatively, panelize, greeble, and aztec it up with some light weathering, and go for a space factory look…
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I have given passing thought to that and also in the recess on the “inside” for the screws, but I have so much detail still to finalise that that isn’t going to happen. As to the space factory look - waaaay up near the top of this thread I did a Starship Enterprise version only half-joking, and I got quite some distance down the track of producing a Jawa Sandcrawler version until the Force pointed me in this direction!
Today, I’m having a bit of a cleanup while my ducks are attempting to put themselves in a row. I have a pretty clear direction on most things conceptually, but the finer detail is not called “finer” detail for nothing.
The “mudguards” have raised the bar on this build and I just need to put in some CAD and prototype miles to refine other bits. I’ll be away for the best part of a week too, so it looks as though I’ll be back to Friday reports.
I thought I might document the painting process out of interest. This is one of the prototype covers in PETG - it was a very quick and dirty print and the real ones won’t be anywhere near as challenging.
Usually I give everything a coat of plastic adhesion primer but for this test piece I didn’t, and usually I just go straight into the primer filler, but I have a ton of left over Zinzer BIN and thought I’d lay down a couple of quick brush coats as it should sand pretty easily - all that dust looking stuff is actually texture from the build plate (I used a smooth plate for the PLA).
Coat ONE.
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Not really progress, just a few diary notes that we can pick up next week
- a better pic of the powerpack bracket.
The board is squeezy in there, but it’s fifteen mm or so wider(deeper?) than the Joker so fitting a smaller board should be easy. Following @Fabien’s idea above - I figured that if I slotted the brackets in one direction it wouldn’t be too hard to design an adapter plate with slots in the other direction to make it all fit. Naturally I made these too long to make that work in this situation but it will be fine. Just need to print a couple (four) standoffs so the long brackets clear the soldered wires.
The missing “teeth” at the bottom are waiting for a usb passthrough to arrive so I can adapt to fit.
I added a little “Rhino” horn above the controller rack to hold the controller off the face to clear the core, and have the cable exit working nicely now.
I don’t know why anyone would put it down back to front with the SD card facing downwards, but yes it does fit that way too.
Does the book say how much clearance is enough?
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I really should be doing other stuff, but with so many things so close to being able to just print and complete I’m finding it a bit hard not to be distracted.
Prototype of the panel on the rail end. The benefit of doing this is that in the drawings it made sense to have the two cable openings side by side - it’s the natural order of things. (the two half openings were for testing purposes). The white cable represents the wired-in power cable connection I’ll lower that hole and raise the stepper cable hole so the cables don’t fight each other.
I’m going to swap out the router lead for an IEC standard right angled plug and plug it into the little outlet so that the cord aligns with the vac hose. Power in and to the powerpack will join behind the socket in a little box which will keep all the 240 on board and separated from the lesser voltages.
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I knew the wiring would be full of great ideas 
I need to reproduce this AC brick bracket, at least…
Considering the IEC outlet too, but that would require cutting the power cord on the brick somehow, not sure I want to make this comittement just yet
The brick bracket is easy - I haven’t drawn the hold-downs for the conduit yet though.
My drawings are shamefully disorganised and can’t be of any use to anyone at the moment, but in a week or so I will have them in some sort of shareable form. At worst I’ll have the STL’s or STEP files for you to use if you wish.
It’s going to be a very simple solution I think, but I need delivery of some Wago connectors to build into the junction box before I print it. I have my fingers crossed that they will be here when I get back on Wednesday.
Cutting the power cord to the brick isn’t too scary, mine has a “toaster” plug so it’s easy to replace if I need to, but it will be hard wired to the inlet power.
The socket is for the Router - I won’t cut that lead, but it’s just a screw connection so I’ll change it out and keep the stock one in it’s box. An extension cord with a conventional plug one end and a right angle IEC at the other is cheaper than buying just the IEC plug!
The plan is to have a second plug at the end of the table isolated with an emergency stop, so the whole thing becomes an appliance. Just plug the table in and you are good to go, or unplug the LowRider from the table if you want to remove it.
And the flood of posts just keep coming…
Sanded the seal coat, (waterbased)
One coat of spray putty (solvent based)
Filled with ordinary waterbased wood filler (because it’s easier than Bondo)
Quick sand with 120 grit and one more coat of spray putty
I’d normally repeat the last two steps a couple of times, with finer sandpaper between coats.
This print was pretty rough and if it was for real I would have used body putty (like Bondo) but I’m really trying to see how stable the finishes are - I’ll be using an acrylic top coat too, so it’s all a bit silly.
Damn that’s pretty clever… I was thinking about converting my routers to festool style plugs, but didn’t think of it for the cnc…
If you’re interested, that may be a better alternative than the IEC plug, because it’s a twist-lock mecanism
Cable:
Customization example:
The plug: Festool - Plug - it Socket on Machine - 110v | Floorstock Ltd
An housing for the plug: Fichier STL gratuit PLUG-IT FESTOOL 🔧・Objet imprimable en 3D à télécharger・Cults
Maybe a female plug on the strut, and another one on the router, and a male-to-male power cord in between?
Also, maybe add some sort of 24V output plug + PWM somewhere? So that you can connect a laser later on, or a VFD
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That’s a lovely idea but at 50€ give or take here just for the lead I’m not in a hurry! EDIT - the low wattage one is half that and I could always use the one on my Domino! 
The idea of the right angle plug is just to keep the bulk away and keep the cable running in parallel with the vac hose.
I just have to add some “bricks” in another bay to add additional plugs later, but while the laser is a dream I think I’d rather have a separate machine. VFD? Well at that point there’ll be a rebuild over the horizon.
On another note:
One hour is not enough to fill sand spray and sand again when there are three coats already that need curing, so I botched the sanding, but have seen enough to know it will work, and gave it a quick squirt of silver to satisfy my curiosity - the clear will dull it off a bit but the sample isn’t going to get any clear.
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I just found the infill patterns for the bottom and top layer yesterday in the slicer. It looks great on the side.
Hilbert Curve (here) and Concentric are my go-to when I need a tidy finish. Have fun with them, they look fantastic clear finished too, but not for this!
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Hand in your geek card now. What you did was a Millennium Falcon version, not an Enterprise version. Yes, the Correllian YT-1300 and Federation Constitution class share a circular main hull, but they aren’t even the same fictional universe!
Ahh, sorry Captain. I’ve been through the Stargate so many times of late my brain is a little fried. I should have checked!