Well… Out with the old:
In with the new:
Now the question:
I am going to add “rails” of MDF to the top so I can extend the table length and width slightly. I need about 4 inches one way and 2 the other. I figured I would split the difference as it will keep the cutting area solidly on the table top. The plan is t track and strips for that. Do you see any problems with doing it this way or should I add some support under the extension parts?
Lengthwise your extension will be out of the cutting area and really just to hold the belts so no problems there if there’s a (slight) misalignment.
Widthwise - I assume that’s the direction you want to extend 2 inches (looking at the photo) - I’d extend on the rail side only and with just the smallest amount of luck you’ll get the rail screwed onto the original top.
That will keep the two sides of the machine running parallel without any fiddling.
If you break it all down to watts it makes more sense. The steppers are like 3v at .8A (2.4W). We use a chopper driver so it chops the 24v up into basically a 3v pwm. So 24v*.1A=2.4W. That times 5 steppers and a CPU and some LEDs plus some inefficiencies. That is how I keep getting it explained to me.
I just did a check yesterday and my LR had all 5 steppers engaged and moving, board powered with LEDs on and it was pulling .74A from a 24v power supply rated at 2.5A.
This makes way more sense to me. Totally forgot about the fact that the drivers are choppers so there is a bunch ove power smoothing going on.
Got my shipping notification for the Jackpot and a couple last items so I can get this wrapped up and running!
on that note… anyone have a box for the new Jackpot controller yet? Seriously thinking about putting it dead smack in the middle of the beam on the bottom face.
It might be a bit early, but I had that in mind when I was playing with this enclosure - the Rambo is very squeezy - the jackpot will fit easily.
I’ll be finalising the finer details over the next day or two, but basically the modules are printed in any width to suit the space you have and just slip over the tubes until the space is filled (not helpful when you have your beam assembled! 
)
I have a couple of “hole” modules to allow cable access, but need to check the clearances on the controller mount.
Speaking of which - how will you go for cable length if you mount the board in the centre of the beam? If you have a controller connected you will end up with a lot of dangling cable I think.
I like your solution but I do have the thing assembled!.
As far as cable length the center mount makes it so I do not have to extend and of the cables. I plan on running the machine directly connected to my computer so I will have a USB cable and the two power cords to deal with only. Pretty sure I can get a really long USB that will make that happen and the power will be plugged into a strip under the table an follow the vacuum hose routing.
Gotta keep the pens away from me.
The notes are always awesome!!! Very nice personal touch!!! Much appreciated!!
There was another on the back of the Jackpot board. I have to say the response and quick shipping rivals just about anyone I have ever dealt with on the internet (and I am well into my years… I had a car mounted cell phone at one time… How is that for dating myself).
Started work on the mounting box for the Jackpot on my LR3. The intention is to use the existing holes in the braces for mounting points. The heat sinks will protrude from the lid to help with some cooling. The lid is printing now.
I need to make the mounts for the power supply in one of the bays next to it. Same plan to use the existing holes as the mounts. @vicious1 the supply that came in the box was a 1.5A model not the 2A model listed on the site. I assume you have changed it to a different source but you might want to edit the listing. Based on your amp draw test the other day I am not worried. Truly weird how overpowered all my other machines have been in the past!
What!!?! no, that isn’t right.
Input 100-140V, 1.5A output 24V, 2.5A??
You my friend can read much better than I can! I will try not to blame it on the drinking!
This will probably be a dumb question. What defines the spacing between the braces for the struts? Do they change depending on the effective cut width of the machine?
I am working on my control box design and am thinking about venturing into making it parametric but need to figure out how to do that. I think I can make the width inside and outside adjust to a user inputed distance?
From memory…
Not more than ~8" or 200mm apart, and evenly spaced.
So for a 1400mm beam, assuming 8 braces, thst’s a shade under 200mm spacing, there.
Evenly spaced seems the best policy, and the number of braces for what gives a “reasonable” distance between. Not more than 200mm, but probably not less than the width of the temporary printed brace that is with the LR3 .3MF parts.
Jamie created a SCAD based parametric script for generating struts…
https://www.printables.com/model/206716-lr3-strut-plate-variable
I made a mod, with short Strut generation tutorial…
https://www.printables.com/model/260916-custom-front-grill-strut-for-v1e-lowrider-3
Someone could mod these to ensure first brace is at least some minimum size that’ll accommodate a case for common large boards, e.g. Octopus. But something small enough to be printable on most community members printer beds, ~200mm maybe? Am no SCAD expert, but happy to help if coding isn’t your thing.
My mostly CNC’d, minimally printed case is 200mm. Personally have no intention of internally mounting the case, but I get why some folks like that look, especially if they’re fully embracing headless, no screen.
I know on my little LR3 I added a brace and plan to add an additional one on the full sheet one when I finally get around to redoing it. So that made my spacing a little shorter than what the calculator made it. I cant say for sure but it feels like it added some rigidity to it. So making your model parametric could have some benefit for sure
Yup if it hits 200 another brace is added. If you wanted to make an insertable case I would only make it attach to one brace and fit inside the next one which will be not further than 200mm away.
Are there any negative reasons, to have a maximum number of braces?
By this I mean, I’m assuming:
But with that said, I understand the “guidelines” for the minimal number of braces, and that tracks for me. Is there a maximum number?
I know weight is more than likely something to consider. Anything I’m not thinking of?
