I remember seeing that in one of your videos (I’m watching your plasma build with extreme interest!) and I haven’t given it much thought honestly but I’m also not against it either. Would take some getting used to but what doesn’t lol
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@DougJoseph for your skr mount im assuming you are running a 12v power supply. Where did you power the fans from? I’m running a 24v power supply so I’m going to hook negative from one fan to positive of the other and run them that way. Just wasn’t sure the best place to actually power them from and didn’t notice it talked about on the printables but I sure could have missed it. Thanks!
I threw together this illustration to help explain another reason I wanted to switch my X and Y axes:
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For some reading on it, check out:
And:
And specifically, here’s where I documented the firmware edits to make it happen:
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Printables links:
https://www.printables.com/model/229940-lowrider-3-cnc-reversal-of-homing-on-short-axis-fo
https://www.printables.com/model/230531-lowrider-3-cnc-reversal-of-homing-on-short-axis-fo
PS:
Brandon (breed2085) figured out a simple way to redo the (default X) endstop that did not require the printed parts approach I used.
Mine allowed the existing installed wiring for the endstop to remain as it was, and just relocated the endstop while still attached to the LR core. His approach changed the path of the wiring, placing the endstop on the side on the XZ plate, yet eliminated my need of printed extra parts.
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If you wanted to swap the logical axis and be on the side you showed in the picture you would need to set the exact bed size of your build and change Y to home to max, and change the firmware to be dual X and single Y. It wouldn’t be that bad, but it would take some edits.
The only thing that does is change the home location in your CAM software. If you are worried about firmware edits just leave it as is and know your cam is rotated 90 degrees.
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Currently I’m past the point of wanting to deal with the x belt again lol. So I’m going to stay with the standard orientation right now. If I ever have to change that part in the future i will cross that bridge then.
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Got it wired up and moving under its own power today. Did the 4 dots at the extreme corners and it came out dead square. Next up is a probing and that is off for sure. But LR is on hold now. Friend from Louisiana is here and assembling his 24x24 primo
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A CNC party and I am not invited…ugh…Rude!
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Might be a long ride but you are always welcome!
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That gif looks like the start to a porno!
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Well I was thinking valley girl, but…
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Had a few min to try and do the z probing for level and ran into this issue…
I’ve checked all the wiring and everything seems good. I didn’t spend a ton of time on it but wanted to check with the wealth of knowledge here. Thanks!!!
Looks like you are hitting the top before you are triggering your endstops. Move the holder all the way down, if that is not far enough, bend the metal tab so that it hits before the gantry tops out. Test this by hand before driving it under power. You can twist the leadscrew all the way up and listen for the click or check M119 in the terminal.
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Also check that the Z1 motor is next to the Z1 endstop. If you have the Z1 endstop triggered by the Z2 endstop, the later end will never stop.
But it is weird that it just falls straight to the bottom though.
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I will double check the endstops but I’m 99.9% sure they are with the correct motor. And I already have the block all the way down and the limit switch bent. That side has been homing no problem until tonight. It was lower by at least 1mm to the x+ side. I will triple check everything in the morning and try again
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@DougJoseph here is a video of the same eBay spindle running on my buddies new primo. The noise level is truly night and day
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Happy New Year Everyone! This morning I unplugged and replugged all my stepper motor connections and that seems to have things happier. I was able to go though the z level process and got it down to .01 difference across 1270mm so i left it there. that is MASSIVELY better than my old LR2. Now I’m setting up and going to attempt to cut out the strut plates. Hopefully everything goes well.
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Sounds great!!
Finally found the issue with the z falling. Idk how I didn’t see it before. The limit switch must have gotten hung on something and now it hangs way too low. Now I get to take it off and replace it. Then go through the entire z leveling process again. No way I’ll get the new switch bent the exact same as the old one. Man this has been a royal pain. It would work then not work. So intermittent.
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