Jackpot V2

As much as this sucks to have happening on an actual batch of boards. I have never had to really deal with a circuit’s speed much. The learning side of this all is really awesome. I can’t say it enough, thank you guys for learnin’ me.

I will start messing with the values and probes as soon as I find a memory stick to record the screen shots so others can follow along.

i looked at Youtube for how an oscilloscope works and then I looked up the pwm and I followed that alil bit, so I am learnin too!
But i am not going to be making any boards, anytime soon :wink:

Easiest way for me to think about it is a multimeter with time as well. Now that I am learning it more, there are plenty of times I could have check some engine sensors if I had a handheld one. It is absolutely fascinating, even more to think my scope is a “slow” one. I have never needed to even come close to maxing it out.

No reason these days not to have one…

https://www.amazon.com/FNIRSI-Oscilloscope-Bandwidth-Multimeter-Generator/dp/B0D6VX6BFL/ref=asc_df_B0D6VX6BFL?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470699834369&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=95270&hvtargid=pla-4584070174366240&psc=1&msclkid=71580d5d97d31326eb5c65f28731d218

Your Rigol scope is a much better instrument, but for a quick “what’s happening here” look, a combo like that is good to have around.

okay I swapped out for a 2k and 5k, much better but still not there. I guess I can try a little lower?

The biggest change happens after r57, actually.


okay half of the previous values did not work. Sorry swapped up the time scale to catch one cycle.
1k and 2.2k, doesn’t come down fast enough.
edit- might have popped that board, bad data

So somehow the answer is with Jono and Jim. They both indicate you need tWo resistors, but I am not fully understanding. Guys Where dies the 2nd resistor go?

I’m still messing around. One of the boards is not behaving right anymore so I am setting up a new one.

I can try another pulldown, and :pd, but that signal directly off the pin looks great…but only takes a couple minutes to test a pull down.

I wonder if they meant for the 2nd one to go on the ground?

I know for my laser I had to run the ground back to the board with the PWM signal. Without that it would either not fire or only fire at 100%.

ground is already pulled down.

The other one is supposed to go on the data pin

Like above, why is leads plural.


1k - 2.2k s200


2k - 4.4k s200

1k-2.2k s5 just to see how close we are getting. Next stronger pull down across the output terminals

p.s. - :pd on the output pin 26 helps the boot high blip.

I also tried the 26 pin and the laser immediately fire 100% on boot up.

adding :pd makes it blip like usual. 26 is always going to blip a little. Currently it starts high and stays there….yikes

stronger pulldown across the output doesn’t help

well smaller value resistors are helping. Not sure how low I can go.

1.1 and 2.2 get me down to s4

2.2 and 4.4 go to s8

Seems linear but to get down to s1(out of1000) we would need 255 and 510ohm. I am just brute force guessing here. Not sure what the side effects might be. I will give it a shot and let the smart guys look at the data before I do anything else.

well, that only gets us down to s3.

Getting

better at hand soldering 0603….

this is zoomed in with the s5, rise time is better than fall time.

Guessing a fundamental issue with this circuit? or maybe I get lucky and another pull down will help? still a lot slower than the jp1

Your need is more on the design engineering side than the test engineering side.

It might be a FET part type issue.

This is a signal output, but it’s PWM, so for example documentation about designing fast switching FET circuits is useful. For the laser, you need 5Khz PWM signals, not many hundred Khz swiching like in the buck coverter.

But you’ll find details in the data sheets and application notes. Below is one from Infineon, I bet Jono has better specific guidance and design reference documentation to follow.

Edit- it might also be an argument for having one output that is the Jackpot V1 design and isn’t VMOT/5V switchable. One laser capable output, two generic voltage selectable outputs.

Damn fine idea right there.

I was seeing Jono’s numbers earlier and wondering if I could swap things out, but I do remember the one component was very hard to find 5v-24v, the other seemed to be specced well. I do need to look again. A lot to learn here. Got a fresh batch of caffeine in me, let’s see if I can figure anything out.