Won-t it work with the twizler thingy?
Honestly, I don’t know.
There are significant differences between how peripherals on i-devices work.
For example serial attached devices in iPhone can’t use regular Bluetooth, they can only be Bluetooth LE. Something about device classes and the LE doesn’t present a jailbreaking path where Bluetooth serial does, so aooke Apple removes the option. (You’d think that autocorrupt on an i-device would know how to spell Apple… but… NOPE)
I have some ham radio gear that works with Android and other Linux boxes, Windows, but not Mac/iPad/iPhone.. On one- a TNC- the manufacturer eventually upgraded from Bluetooth to Bluetooth LE and now I can do APRS stuff with my iDevices.
I’ve got a bunch of Lightning devices, including esoteric stuff like LIghtning-to-Ethernet, and that thing definitely doesn’t work through a swizzler. I’ve tried.
But it is time to jump up to a newer iPhone. When I do, I’ll be testing things. I’ve already started that transition as I kept my old iPad Pro around forever because it has LTE. A few months ago I grabbed an M4 iPad air with LTE and I wish I’d done that upgrade a while ago. The M4 is a monster performance wise compared to the anemic old iPad pro A-series processor. Better in every way.
So, a nice big old iPad is now available for me to use with the Jackpot stuff for troubleshooting. Not sure I like it’s size for running a machine, though.
I’m hopeful between the wired and wireless UART bridges, websocket, and expansion like the Airedale- that all of the major use cases will be covered by what’s in Jackpot V2.
Finding all these rabbit holes to go down does slow me down from being a good beta tester, though.
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Not at home, sadly.
I have a nice visor, but these days I find that flipping the various lens powers in and out or taking it on/off eventually either give me a headache or make me nauseous. Don’t get old!
If I ever come across a good deal on one, I’d grab it.
I was able to de-solder with the old 3rd-hand PCB vice, and then double-fisting a pair of fine tip soldering irons as a sort of ghetto micro tweezers. At least that bit of dexterity hasn’t left me so far.
I really like this camera that Jeff has.
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I’m down to about a 150mm minimum focal distance at the moment, so I’m well on the way, unfortunately!
Mine was actually just a cheap one I bought on Amazon while I was working the US and then shipped back in a suitcase. They were so much cheaper in the US vs in NZ. I think I paid something like $300-400 for it. It’s a swing-arm style one with 45 degree eyepieces and adjustable magnification
Pretty much identical to that, except only the binocular version. I was going back and forth over spending a couple hundred more for the trinocular version but honestly I don’t know that I’d have really used it for much. Seems like there might be better options for magnification vs FOV with a camera/monitor but at the expense of any depth perception.
I’ve got a Hakko station with a set of hot tweezers and they’re pretty good for cleanly removing parts but honestly it has always seemed a bit of an unnecessary luxury. If I’ve only got one or two to do I usually add extra solder to each side of the SMD part and then just get both at the same time by lying down the iron. Either way I usually add flux, wick the pads then clean them with IPA on a swab before replacing anything, anyway.
I’ve been meaning to have a muck around with making a 3D printed adapter for the little TS101 USB iron I have to turn 2 of them into a pair of hot tweezers. I think that’d be pretty funny.
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Is it one that others can afford, or do we all have to borrow it from Jeff?
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It’s a fairly affordable Topdon camera. Looks like they go for around $200 on Amazon, perpetually on sale
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Oh yeah that is 256x192, mine is 160x120! For most things I don’t think it matters but on these boards…That added resolution shows a lot. I need to trade up, putting my flir on ebay.
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Ryan did you see that PiBot board from the other thread?
The product page shares the whole schematic too.
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I don’t see a schematic for the pendant. They have a PCB carrier but no enclosure yet.
It looks like they’re using bluetooth serial bridges- one module on the pendant, one module on the FluidNC host board.
I was already planning to make a stub cable that breaks an ESP-NOW module out from the Jackpot V2 RJ12 connector and a similar one for one of my CYD pendants.
It may also be possible to take the ESP-NOW functionality and load it directly into the CYD firmware, so no module would be required on the pendant.
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Yeah I mean for the controller board
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I found it from Matthias Wandel:
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It just occurred to me, would these not be better than what we currently have on the inputs?
Seems like there is more protection and less components? Maybe a slightly better price.
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@vicious1 - Bart just released 3.9.8. Should have fixes for the enstop issues.
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Potentially. They’re quite different approaches.
The current design will accept any input voltage from 0V to the 30V blocking voltage of the BAT54S and has different timing going from high to low and low to high.
The input with the ESD suppressor on it will only accept 0 to 3.3V but has very little impact on the speed of the edges.
As for less components, you’d still need the pull-ups and filtering components, so it’d be replacing the 7x BAT54S diode arrays with 2-4 ESD suppressors, depending on routing etc.
It wouldn’t be a bad idea to have some ESD suppression on those inputs, as well, but it’s much less of an issue given they’re hooked up to normally closed switches so are normally just shorted. That’s the kind of thing where I would think it’s acceptable to just recommend standard low-ESD practices while assembling and then not worry.
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Okay, thank you!
Will there be a separate connector for a fan? I was just thinking about this while I was moving my power supply on the V1 board. It is a pain trying to get the two wires into the one connector. Plus, I can’t easily remove the fan because it is connected to the lid.
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For both the current and new boards you can absolutely use an output for your fan, it just takes a little extra start and end gcode. We just use the power port because it is easier.
With that said the new connectors on the Jackpot2 are easier to use.
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When it is ready, will there be a roll-out party? Also, do you want us want to try new things people to wait to order or order ASP? I don’t need one ASP and don’t want to delay kits to new explorers from getting started.
Every day is a party!! Never know what tomorrow might bring. Maybe I number the first 100 by hand though.
I should be able to get these pretty quick so no worries. I have a small batch coming any day of the rj12 versions. If you want one feel free to grab one. For the most part though, I see no real reason for the jp1 users to swap unless they just wanna have some fun.
I will still have plenty of jp1’s in stock for a while to come (US and International) to judge the acceptance of the changes.
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