Jackpot on a LR2?

[riptyde (Slamer)]

I have a LR2 running with a mini rambo and I really want endstops.
Would the Jackpot be a good option?

I do all of my cam in fusion 360 using flyfisher’s post processor - any issues with that on the jackpot?

And to answer the question, no I do not want to upgrade to the LR3 for various reasons

[Michael_Melancon (Mike M)]

I’m not super up to speed with what it does, but I believe the flyfisher post processor is for Marlin, which the Jackpot does not run.

So at a minimum, you would have to switch to a GRBL based post processor I believe

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

Yes you can set up a Jackpot on a LR2, I’m 99% sure the LR2 and LR3 run the same firmware. As far as your CAM I’m not sure on that one. The Jackpot is GRBL/FluidNC not Marlin so I would assume your post processor would have to change.

[SupraGuy (Dan)]

I’m 100% sure.

My LR3 yses mostly recycled LR2 parts. I had endstops on my LR2.

The Jackpot will do just fine, I think. There must be a postprocessor that works for GRBL, and therefore for FluidNC. A little difference in work flow, but dual endstips.will do that too.

[riptyde (Slamer)]

so I looked up flyfisher’s post processor on Github.
The highlighted would lead me to believe it would work with GRBL?

if someone more knowledgeable than I can confirm this I will probably order the jackpot next month.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

The bigger issue is where are you going to mount the endstops? I didn’t design the LR2 for them.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@riptyde

The highlighted would lead me to believe it would work with GRBL?

Yes.

99% of the commands are the exact same as Marlin’s, for some reason the homing is different. I am sure there is a reason Marlin strayed from the GRBL standard but it seems odd to me.

[riptyde (Slamer)]

I’ll figure something out. there’s gotta be a way.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Just pushing for the LR3 build…

[riptyde (Slamer)]

Just need to find an easy way to get a 10" Z axis height.
It could be in the future, but one step at a time.

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

@riptyde

Just need to find an easy way to get a 10" Z axis height.

Drop table? That’s a lot of Z. Are you cutting that high on a LR2??

[SupraGuy (Dan)]

@riptyde

there’s gotta be a way.

… There is. I had end stops on my LR2, but… I upgraded to the LR3. Seriously it is better in almost every metric.

[riptyde (Slamer)]

@SupraGuy

There is. I had end stops on my LR2, bu

Do you have images or anything showing how you had them?

@SupraGuy

LR3. Seriously it is better in almost every metric.

I want it, but 1, need to watch my budget, and 2, I really need 10" Z height.

[riptyde (Slamer)]

@Jonathjon

Are you cutting that high on a LR2??

I’m cutting 4+ inches, but you need room for a 4+ inch endmill above the stock plush travel clearance. 10" just gives me a little wiggle room

I’m about to cut my first 4" carve on the LR2. I have already done it with the MPCNC prior to the LR2.

[Britt (Britt Percival)]

Wow, a 4" cut! Be sure and post a picture.

[riptyde (Slamer)]

I have a thread going on my next project here

Starting another RC plane

So a couple of years ago I cut this on the burly. [image] 50" wingspan, cut out of xps foam from Lowes. both (Left and Right) wings are top and bottom halves (2 sided cuts) with a wood structure in side. [image] Same thing with the fuselage. 2 sided cut. [image] and…it did not fly well. I think I calculated for a larger battery, forgot about it, and flew with a smaller battery. it ended up being tail heavy. and the saying in RC flying - a nose heavy plane flies crappy… a t…

Jump down a bit to my last post on that thread.
Hoping to cut later this week or next week.

Starting another RC plane

OK, summer got in the way of this project but finally manage to get 1 mile stone out of the way. Rough cut of the foam sections that make up the fuselage. [image] what is currently cut is the transparent grey sections in the image below. Next step is to glue them together and carve the final form. [image]

[Jonathjon (Jonathan Jones)]

@riptyde

@Jonathjon

Are you cutting that high on a LR2??

I’m cutting 4+ inches, but you need room for a 4+ inch endmill above the stock plush travel clearance. 10" just gives me a little wiggle room

I’m about to cut my first 4" carve on the LR2. I have already done it with the MPCNC prior to the LR2.

Roger that. I know some have pushed the LR3 from using 150mm linear rail to 200mm. I would think you would have to go to around 350mm linear rail to maintain 10" of travel. that’s a lot! I would think you would have to go wider to go that much taller with the YZ plates. Would be interesting to see that’s for sure.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@riptyde

I’m cutting 4+ inches,

So you only need 4+ inches of travel. You table base just needs to also be the endmill length away, Drop table. A 10" (meaning 10" endmill) travel on either machine is horrible and I am sure barely works. If you just make your work surface one endmill length away you will find you can probably move 3x as fast.

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

Unless you are actually cutting 10" worth of vertical surface?

[SupraGuy (Dan)]

@riptyde

Do you have images or anything showing how you had them?

Low & Slow. This is gonna be a while

I actually changed it so that the Y and Z stops are integrated. [20210927_092630] The piece is held with just the one bolt, but is molded to the bearing holder so that it can’t rotate once tightened. It shouldn’t be under much stress anyway. The plunger stop for the Y axis is less than ideal still, so I’ll redo that. The X stop is pretty simple. [20210927_092711] Just a tube plug, triggers off of the printed part on the carriage Edit: Endstops.zip (204.6 KB) This is the current ver…

Edit: I used 1" .065 wall tubes, so if you use conduit, you will need to edit the tube plugs a little to adjust the diameter to match your rails. The Y and Z switch holders should fit for any version.