Technically yes. my stock is only 4-4.5inches.
for the 4" cut I use a 6" endmill which is about 5" after set in the router.
Currently my rollers ride on my table and I have to lift the router up to put the endmill in.
so my gantry is about 8 inches up.
No I am not actually cutting 10"
I have 128mm of Z travel on my LR3 with the taller YZ plates and 200mm rails. With raised rails, it would easily manage your use case… Just saying…
but I just built a nice torsion box table 
.
I think for now I will keep what I have and think about it for the future.
Lol! For the record, when I built my LR3, I used the table I made for the LR2 and put “wings” on it for the LR3 rail and roller sides, just enough to extend the sides.
Had I wanted to at the time, I could have raised those wings to give me a drop table effect, and I considered raising the rails by 3 1/2" (the height of a 2×4) so I would have had a bit over 5" of travel (128mm) and about 8 1/2" height.
My rails also extend out from the table enough that the router hangs over free space at Y home position, which I use to change mills.
So if your stock is (let’s say) 4.5" (114mm) and your endmill stucks down 5" (127mm) the 2×4 height wouldn’t quite manage, but a 4" lift would be perfect, and your 5" stick-out should reach the spoilboard. Re-using the LR2 table would work out nicely.
Oh, and also, I was able to just re-use the steel X rails from the LR2 directly onto a slightly wider LR3. I actually had to cut a bit off of them, so no need to buy new steel.
All that said, if you tell me what size steel you are using, I can edit the CAD for my endstop mounts to accomodate. I actually have a better idea for the Z endstops that I got most of the way through, but didn’t finish when the LR3 beta project got started.
Just add some riser blocks to the two rails. Whoops Dan said that just above this post.
has anyone made a CAD file of the limit switch?
I have an idea for them but need the CAD to lay it out and make the print files.
Would that do?
Thanks @SupraGuy. I’ll give it a try. it will at least get me started until my endstops come and can measure them.
is there an order that it is auto-homed? X then Y then Z? or something else?
Typically you home Z max first. That makes sure you do not drag a endmill across your surface. After that…doesn’t really matter.
two questions.
1 - I see this working well on a normal set up where z is relatively low. I have a 10" Z and really don’t want to wait for it to travel that far.
Any for seeable issues with z touching off on the table then lifting it up high enough set my router in?
Remember, I use the LR2 which utilizes the router’s original base which makes it easy to remove and replace. So far I’ve been able to get the height up to where my endmill clears (6") then set and lock the router in.
doing this also uses my table as 0 and not a point on the Z tubes that I need to figure out and somehow level.
2 - what mobile app have you found to be good to use with the jackpot board?
@vicious1 I think you said it can be controlled via an app.
I’m running android and just found this one.
Not really, you need to set up two touch probes and be able to use them at the same time.
You put a movable Z endstop mount on them. Get them reasonably close and use the Z auto level feature. That is how we do it. Set it up once and it is done.
This also gives you the opportunity to resume a failed job. Once you have material mounted you can not home to your table. This is the point of homing the LR3 to Z max, the next MPCNC will be switched to this way as well.
Not an app. The website is built in. When you power it up sign into ssid- fluidnc pass- 12345678.
Sure enough…right there
scrolled right passed it.
Yeah, I had a method to set up two endstops that would touch off on the table but…
…this make a lot of sense.
I’ll set it up like this.
Thanks again. I’m sure I will have more questions.
I keep working on that page so who knows it was even there last time you looked.
So much info I try not to overdo it but I also want to make sure it is all there.
For the record, I had more than 12" of Z in my LR2, and I am not patient lerson with this stuff, so my “first pass” homing was pretty zippy, with a slower second pass for accuracy. My Z stops had (and needed) a bit of flexibility to keep the switches from getting mashed, but were still very repeatable. Honestly though, since I only homed Z once in a while, I couldnhave left it slower and it would have been fine. (I also never actually used more than 4" of Z in the whole time I had the LR2 before I upgraded to the 3, and that was just for thicker material.)
Do You need 10” working height or 10” clearence for thick material? The best thing is to keep the machine Z small, and use a drop table to lower the piece.
Yes, I cut up to 4" foam, plus length of endmill (6" OAL, can’t find a 5" and 4" is too short after it is clamped in the router). plus I need some room for clearance. and added to that I have 3/4 spoil board.
