Mike mentioned a boot delay…looks like that is built in?? That is a 30ms delay? If we add another 30ms so all the boards get it will that just make the genuine take 60ms? Adding a resistor and a cap seems like it is worth the $0.08 it might cost.
Maybe this is built in to the genuine dev boards, but not the knock-off?
Doubled down…
Could maybe add a jumper setting or something if you wanted that defaulted to knockoff mode, and if someone wanted to use genuine, they could change it if they want, just in case it ever caused a problem, although I can’t imagine and extra 50-70ms would matter.
Looking at it it boots so much nicer, everything is at full power when it comes on, the knock offs are booting while it is still powering up.
How would that delay add, if it was built into the jackpot and used with a genuine? I do have all the stuff to actually test it now. Does that time change with 3.3v and those values?
Quick search shows there are ways to change it, but quick search in FluidNC shows they are not as far as I can tell (Assuming what I found so far is correct…)
Nothing.
Delaying the enable pin doesn’t seem to do anything the blue trace takes 30ms longer to get to 3.3v but it does not change the boot pin at all. It seems to get triggered almost teh same moment the enable pin does.
So then I tried the 3.3v in, same.
5V prevents it from booting.
I even tried the boot pin it just smooths out the initial curve but boots at the same moment it normally does.
Now that I say that…it was all on the genuine board. So that is good. Nothing changes on the real board. Maybe it only helps the other boards.
I will swap it but I do not think anything is going to change. The trigger seems to be super super low voltage. For some reason I hoped it was like 1.5V, but we can see from the first tests it obviously isn’t.
So the delay isn’t going to work. Next test is the pull up.
The clones eventually hit 3.3V with that really weird section (is that UART coms?). Why is the genuine not doing that?
Looking back I was in a hurry and I didn’t take notes for each test on the connection. I will recheck the genuine, but I am sure it connected great as did the others. So a pull up seems fine, and like a very cheap and easy fix for future boards. Unless you all see something I do not.
What else should I be testing before any changes are made.
Wow, there’s much more common mode noise with the USB-C ESP32. Does that board just have a completely crappy 3.3V power supply?
Yes, I think that is UART communications.
10K what? Input impedance? You want more than that if possible. Much more. If the front end of your scope has only 10K impedance it will be an active part of the circut.