The bits that I have are the same diameter above the cutting edge (I also have some that are 1/4" shank, but those aren’t the issue…) so even with no finish pass I can cut deeper than the flute length. I specify the flute length so thst finish passes work properly.
That’s what I was saying. 
Damn, can’t play games because my memory is being used to render the Tongue Drum video… -_-
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Go put some LEDs on Der Froschkonig instead!
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I don’t have this problem on my steamdeck…
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I think this post of mine is the one referred to:
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Thanks for that. I had posted from my cell phone, and searching or copying links from there is a skill I have not yet acquired
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New toy for inlays. Couldn’t get myself to spend 75€ on an Amana Tool… I also have the feeling that this will be the fastest 20€ I have ever destroyed… 
Interesting as well: Amazon says they gave it to a tenant, though noone is at home… 
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I finally tried out my new toy in shitty soft wood. Looks pretty promising. Though I have to admit that it is way too small for an inlay. Have to loose some details for it.
Bonus points for guessing the band. It’s only the partial logo, didn’t have two hours. 
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First inlay with the new endmill. I need to turn up the RPM, you can see that in the corners where it cleared first there are inaccuracies. Also, one of my bearings does not make contact with the tube at a certain point in the middle. I tried rotating the tubes bit by bit which makes the problem worse or makes the core scrape. It’s either one brace, because it only happens at that one place or the tubes. 0.2mm off is quite a lot somehow. I got it to be really minor where the bearing does touch and does turn when the core moves, but is, at this one point, easily rotated by hand. It’s not getting any better, whatever I try. I think I might just have to move my main working area from the middle where this is happening more to the side where it should also be more rigid.
Don’t worry though, there is glue in the gap and, as usual, it’s hard to see with the naked eye and also even harder to see when you don’t know what you are looking for.
P.S.: The “new” technique for deep inlays in Estlcam works really, really well if you are willing to edit the Gcode by hand.
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That looks pretty good. I would give that an A+ for sure.
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Thanks, still not completely happy though. 
The endmill “wandered” off when there was no load on it, basically the same thing that happened before I switched to the 1-flute from the burr endmill, but at a teeny-tiny scale. I tried cutting the V-bit parts first and then clear so it would not slip from the already cleared area, but that does not seem to matter. Have to up the RPM I guess. If I find the time I will write an introduction how to do deep inlays with Estlcam without the need for V-Carve Pro.
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@vicious1 I did lower the voltage from 1.5A to 1A now, the motors don’t get that warm, but the holding power is a lot lower. Today I moved X when putting the dust shoe on. Is that normal? I considered going back to 1.5A since I’ve never had any problems with it.
P.S.: Adding 5 of the Stepper extender wires. – V1 Engineering Inc to the shopping cart increases the postage from 38$ to 80$. Is that right? I’d love to not do wiring again, but not for 42$ postage (that’s 8$ for each cable… -_-)The “original” order has the Jackpot, stickers and a tiny screwdriver.
?? how are you wired? 1.5A should have melted the mounts and probably cooked your stepper?
That moves from a small box to a medium box. The jackpot completely fills a small box. Anything more needs a medium.
If you want to try it I think I can cram it all in a padded envelope that is the same price as a small box and I can refund the difference.
I usually from .6 to .9 at the very most, and usually settle around .7. If you can run at 1 amp you must be wired in parallel or something.
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I guess it depends on the size of your hammer? 
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No, one TB6600 per stepper. It works tough, so I am not touching it for the time being.
I think I figured that one out: I have steppers that do not have 84oz/in but more like 60 I guess. Didn’t know about it before and just compared the specs. Might buy better ones for the LR3 and will use the old ones for the Primo/Laser/Plotter.
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Do you think the jackpot will survive that?
I found a combination of things that still fit in the box. Now I need to order steppers, but this time big enough. 
I just compared pictures of my steppers to the ones you are using and they are tiny compared to those… I am now ordering bigger ones. Not that the CNC does not work, but now I know that they are too weak, it’s making me nervous.
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Could we organize a european group-buy to save on shipping?
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