Wait. What?
2 Likes
Whoops. 
4 Likes
Would have been jealous:)
What size of bit are you using (not the shaft)?
I also get super clean cuts in beech ply but go way slower, in setting 2 on the Katsu, with a 3mm bit.
3.175. It’s my little trick to be able to go deeper than the 9mm the edge is long. 
2 Likes
Oh ok, I thought the dimension was the shaft as it seems like an odd size (for EU)
Somehow the imperial 1/8 inch is a common size for endmills (we have 3.175, 6, 8, 10, 12), so for whatever odd reason for the lowest size, the imperial stuck. And since the shaft has that size, the cutting edge needs it, too, to go deeper.
Hi,
I’m on the way of building my first LR3. Getting the most parts (hardware and printed) wasn’t the hardest thing, but now I’m struggling to get the YZ-plates.
My 3D printer is too small so I can’t print them.
I live in GERMANY, so order two pieces of wood in USA and shipping it around the half world is an option but not very economic.
So please:
- Can somebody telll me an address in Germany where these plates can be milled out from 1/2" (12 mm) MDF?
- Or even better a friendly owner of a MPCNC/lowrider in Germany who can mill it for me? Costs will be refunded
Hey,
Where do you live? I am from Oldenburg.
3 Likes
It is possible to print the YZ plates in two pieces on a smaller printer (as a temporary solution to mill them with your LR3). Search for”split YZ”. (Sorry for no link, I’m using my phone and haven’t figured out how to switch between multiple threads).
2 Likes
I live near Stuttgart so Oldenburg is too far away 
Yeah splitting in two smaller pieces would be an option but what a shame: My printer isn’t only too small it is also out of order 
Welcome @snowwiddow!
Do you, or a friend, have access to a bandsaw, or jigsaw even? Have seen some people print dxf template, then use to guide cutting parts.
1 Like
That’s a great work around.
I wonder if you could even miter box cut them.
Yes,
I know 1/8 is 3,175mm. It is super annoying as I use 3mm & 3,18mm bits, so always need to keep my collets apart so the bits will fit correctly
Maybe it is time to add some marking on it now I think about this.
But I still don’t get it
I’ve cut 18mm ply with an 1/8 shaft and a 3mm diameter. To begin with, I didn’t know a 3,175mm bit existed, but why wouldn’t you be able to cut a 3mm 9mm deep?
Sorry, I could let it go, but I am intrigued:)
I can cut 9mm because that’s the length of the cutting edge, but not further. I needed 18mm depth. It becomes more obvious if your endmill is 2mm cutting edge, then the 3.175mm shaft wont fit into it to cut deeper than 9mm.
Ohh ok, now I understand. It’s just a hack so you would not need to buy longer bits. Right?
Correct. Because Sorotec does not have longer ones or they are really expensive. So I either stick under 9mm if I need precision or use the 3.175.
1 Like
Thanks for explaining it to this dummy
2 Likes
Not sure about your CAM, but…
With Estlcam, you would set the maximum depth for a finish pass at 9mm, but as long as you can expose 18 (probably 19, for safety) of the bit, you can cut to 18mm depth.
I was experimenting with my bits that have a 12mm cutting edge, and making 19mm cut passes.
Estlcam had the code cut to 12mm, then did a finish pass, taking off another 0.5mm all the way around, the proceeded to the final depth (19.5mm) followed by another finish pass. The end result had a slight lip in the finish pass that could be seen under the right light, but couldnt be felt with a fingertip. A light brush with 200 grit sandpaper took care of it.
2 Likes
Wow, that blows my mind, thanks. I never told Estlcam how deep my cutting edge is, I didn’t know it could do that. But mostly it also defeats the purpose if it makes the top cut wider so it fits the 3.175, doesn’t it?