Which one Catan pieces

Would you print or machine Catan pieces for this board?


Nice looking design! Do you have plans for paint or stain?

If you are meaning the cities, towns, and roads, I would definitely 3D print them. I found STL files for those pieces on both Printables and Thingiverse. I have a 4-player box set, and I printed pieces to be able to do 6 player games, because my custom board is made for up to 6 players:



I think i mustbe the only person to have never played catan. Til a year ago i had never heard of it!


Nope….you aren’t the only one!! :wink:


You heathens! :scream:


It looks good (in my opinion) when all parts are together, without colours. So I think it would look better if roads, villages and castles would be natural colours.

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There are a lot of resources in this thread: Garrett's Catan Set

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after I saw those Carret’s and Joseph’s design, I might need to do also from different woods.:heart_eyes:


It’s also been on my to-do list forever. :smile:

this is too forever project, I started this about three years ago. now I try to finish it with LR3🤣

I have a feeling if I went down the rabbit hole of Catan, I’d spend more time trying to design/make pieces than actually playing the game.

I had a friend who won the German Catan championship, it wasn’t fun playing with him. :sweat_smile:

Yes i have a friend like that with monopoly made me give up the game for 20 years

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I was in the same boat until recently. Even after I started making custom boards for it, I still did not own a boxed set of the game and had never played it. Recently my son in law bought me a boxed set (4 player version) and we started a game for me to learn, which we did not have time to finish. In the meantime I printed cities, towns, and roads for players 5 & 6, as well as making build cards for players 5 & 6, and since the original vacuum-formed box insert can’t even come close to holding my 1/4" thick game board pieces for 6 players, I designed a new box insert, which is currently printing, and I will likely either print a slide on lid for it, or else make a wood box for the currently printing part to insert into.


PS: in case you cannot tell from the above pics, the new box insert is rather large. Way too big for normal size printers. I’d have attempted CNC cutting something for this, except none of my bits are even close to being long enough. Foam would have been tough to cut and/or tough to do layers. So I went ahead with printing this. It’s only because I did the Ender Extender 400XL kit on an Ender 3-v2 that I have a printer big enough for this. In the above Cura slice screenshot, the print bed is basically 16" x 16"!

The only German I know is Die Seidler von Catan :slight_smile:. We bought a German copy when we visited Bavaria a long time ago.

We have an old copy on our shelf from 20 years ago and a few expansions. We pulled it down just the other day and it was still really enjoyable.

Before Kids, my wife and I would take the tablet to the coffee shop and park on a couch while we played the digital version of catan. It comes with all the expansions and you can play with CPUs which made it possible for just two people. We probably played 1000+ games. It has a lot of replay value.

It is also the quintessential entry game from random games like monopoly to strategy games. It is a good mix of easy to learn and full of depth.


I bought the game after talking to som eof my brewers. Found out you cant play with just two people though. We found the Catan card game and the wife and I enjoy playing it!

Long time no see. I have one diode laser and i think it could be good to this project. Can I install it to my lr3? I have skr board and normal firmware in. Do I need to make some changes to the firmware? Is there some pin in board where to putt the laser in? What else I should know? I don’t need to cut with laser (yet). Sorry there might be same questions many time.

The current V1 firmware for the SKR Pro does have a laser mode pin enabled, (Pin PC9) so the laser will work just fine.

You.may need a separate power supply for the laser, many of them need more current than you may be able to supply. In that case, you need to have a ground lead that connects the two.

I use a PWM and ground connectuon from the board to the laser module, which serves to connect the ground reference and the PWM works properly.

Okay thx. I have power supply from old 3d printer in my lr3, where output: 12V 30A