V5 build #2 - higher temp, higher flow

Been gathering parts for the last year. Some new, some are reuse. Original intent was 200x200x200. Should end up 250x250x225… Last minute linear rail option allowed for it and the measured heated bed was a bit larger than anticipated.

Mid build photos. Vinyl “wrapped” wood back, sides and bottom with laser cut extrusion bolt holes. Front and top will be clear acrylic to complete the enclosure. Skr pro and h2v2s lite will round out the hardware.

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Ok, so my other v5 had lasered acrylic for the milled parts. After seeing the yellow anodized aluminum, id like to try aluminum on the lr4 and i want to anodize it orange, but Im terrified ill just break stuff. Typically this doesn’t stop the work and i break stuff anyway, but my aluminum sheet is just the right size.

A few questions:

  1. Can it be done with just a 1/8th mill? 1 or 2 flute cheap Amazon 10 sets are what i have. IIrc others were doing both 1/8 16th mills for them. Is that really necessary other than the logos?
  2. I have a mister setup for cooling. Never used it before, so does anyone who has have any tips?
  3. Probably going to not try trochoidal first round. Feed will be super slow and doc super shallow. Will likely take days to cut.

What is missing here?

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It’s troichoidal, but very safe way to pack parts for MP3DP and mill from a single 12"x12" aluminum sheet detailed here

I used both 1/8 and 1/16.

If I remember correctly, you need the 1/16th for some of the screw holes in the X rail mount on Y Trucks, and I also had better luck getting accurate holes in some places using the 1/16th bit and using the helix drill method instead of just plunging the 1/8th directly down

I probably used the 16th for all of these sized holes

The logos and shaped holes do come out looking better as well…

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Thanks for the link to your tutorial! I remember reading that a while back. I’m using a different CAM software and it doesn’t use trochoidal. The LR4 has recut the same section like 6 times now because when it starts to skip, I stop motion and redo the cam. Had some thickness mismatch and then the speed was wrong, and then the depth was wrong… each time recoverable. Still working on the first piece, but making headway. Cutting the holes was easy, but the part outline has been quite difficult. Going about 4 mm/s and 0.25 mm/pass. IPA mist not set up. 5 mm Aluminum plate. Laser cutting acrylic was super easy compared to this. Still working with the first mill, but questioning how sharp it is now.

EDIT: 5.5 mm/s, 0.25 DOC, no finish pass. 20 parts to go… left the sticky stuff on the aluminum and it holds the piece in from below, so not screwing down the parts either.

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They should all have it, it’s just called differently in some software. :sweat_smile:

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Around the same time I did that, I know @vicious1 and @Jonathjon were both experimenting with non-trochoidal settings, they may have some better insight into feeds and speeds for that.

I didn’t either. I just held an air gun from my compressor set to about 20 psi at the cutter for most of the time to help clear chips and cool it down a bit. seemed to work ok.

Mine were done 100% with a 1/8 bit. I agree that the logos would look better woth the smaller bit.

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The latest progress photos


Still milling oarts and planning to anodize… Just planning to swap the pieces in as they become available. I laser cut all the pieces on the epilog in less time than it took to mill 1 of them. Time is the issue. With 20 parts left to cut, it will take a while. I didn’t have enough acrylic for all parts, so im reusing the v4 z bed mounts until the milled parts are ready… Great junk drawer find! And the floor setup doesn’t allow me to use the v5 lower z belt mount anyway.

The orange side wrap went on last night… It may not be on very long. Pro tip… Wrap before you put bolts in and have it assembled. Had i planned to wrap before assembling it would have been done then.

The plan is to fully enclose and abs print all the parts once the aluminum parts are in place.

Next: figure out how to get the print cooling fan at the right height with the lite’s longer nozzle setup then figure out the controller location…

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