Its not your English, if you use either @ followed by a name like @ragadinks or use the reply button in the post you are referring to it is easier to follow the threads.
The Vslot wheels running on the inverted right angle rail works well on the foam ripper, but there is only light loading on the wheels, I’m pretty sure the sideways forces acting upon a Lowrider would be enough to dislodge Vslot wheels from the rails, I am thinking with having two bearings at 45 degrees to the vertical will provide at least as much resistance to sideways loadings as the skate wheels provide…I also think some form of support will be needed to prevent the rails from flexing sideways, it is only light gauge aluminium, this should be quite easy to achieve though with printed brackets, initially glued under the rails …time will tell.
Should particle build up on the rails be an issue that could be easily solved with some form of brush keeping it off the rail, I would have thought it is a common potential problem with the skate wheels, it is, to some extent, dependent upon the size of the chips you are making.
Just FYI (you may already know/plan on using), you can create a really nice v-bearing setup using a strip of the same Alu rail, flipped and tapped. The only reason for tapping the holes is because there’s not a lot of clearance inside the rail for nuts, and you can place the bearings across from each other in pairs rather than offsetting them. This was how I was going to run my X and Y axis rails before I found the MPCNC so many years ago…
Thread the bearing bolts into the new bracket - saves the space for the nuts. 3 perimeters and 7.5mm diameter, I have a set of those combined drill and taps which are brilliant for creating an 8mm thread in this type of application.
I can’t quite visualise how you mean the rail flipped and tapped…??
Today I got Klipper 3D working on the SKR Pro 1.2 with dual end-stops for the Y axis and a single end-stop on the X. I designed both sets of end-stops from scratch. I’ll be adding a specific post sometime later.
I am holding off on the Z axis for the moment as, as far as I can tell, getting this wrong breaks the Z couplers. Also I haven’t completely decided how to arrange the Z end stops.
Once I have a working Z axis (with end-stops) I’ll be drawing the infamous crown.
Edit: Flexible couplers are cheap and available next day from Amazon (£6.99 for 5). So not a big deal if you break one.
Only just, mind you. The belts and several bearings are loose, the wires are dangling everywhere, the bed isn’t flat and one of the z-steppers keeps losing steps. But I am happy: it’s running dual end-stops on X, Y; Mainsail / Klipper 3D and my old but never-before-used router. The work areas is as square as I can make it and it does the full range of travel. This is my very first CNC milling operation, ever, and the first time I have used Fusion 360for manufacturing and post processing.
I have been trying to surface my OSB using a 25mm 1/4” shank bit but I discovered a problem: the DeWalt 611 template doesn’t fit my DeWalt D26240K-GB version of the router. There’s about a 1mm difference in the diameter of the bolt circle.
As far as I am aware the 611 and D26240K-GB only differ in electronics / electrics but are mechanically identical. If the template is made out of wood then you probably can’t tell the difference but mine is 3D printed with recesses for the bolt heads.
This is a problem because the screws (M4 10mm) are only just long enough to fit but not perfectly so my router isn’t secured in the correct alignment: it is a few degrees off perfect alignment. I have bought 16mm M4 screws and made a shim to secure my router to the base - a set of washers would probably work just fine with the longer bolts.
Also, I ran into problems with my surfacing job. I wanted to fit standard width sheet goods (4ft or 1220mm) into my router bed but it turns out that you need extra space for the tool lead in and lead out on each side - at least 25mm I’d guess so my working area needs to be 1270mm at least for a 1220mm wide board.
Another problem is that Klipper 3D doesn’t natively support G2 or G3 commands because these are not necessary for 3D printing. 3D prints are based on STLs and these are just triangles and not curves. Thankfully Klipper has a workaround for this that needs some extra configuration settings.
The UTF-8/ASCII doersn’t quite line up, but those are the two alu angles, and the arrows point to where you would drill and tap holes in the upper angle to screw in the bolts to hold bearings that would then ride on the lower angle.
I like this alu angle idea and will start looking for parts.
On my table I have a slight problem with the sides being not perfectly straight and smooth and there is some binding. Instead of rebuilding the sides I’ll add rails, or maybe just one rail.
It looks like these 4 new bearings on just one side will be enough to locate the carriage in the X direction and give me a nice straight Y. Then I don’t have to worry about the rails (or table sides) being parallel.
My table is not full length, I only need a straight 63" long /\ rail.
I have been solving some issues over the last few days. My LR2 has:
Not been homing the Z axis as the Z motor was stalling
Randomly cutting out on various axes, or moving axes without request.
X and Y axes not moving properly while cutting
The Z motor stalling (one side only) was because that motor couldn’t cope with the weight of the router on that side, the electronics which were mounted there and the weight of my longer-and-thicker-than-average steel pipes.
Klipper came to into its own: I increased the 2209’s run current from 0.8A to 1.2A and reduce the speed of movement down to 4mm/s, to give 30 rpm, by editing the config file and restarting Klipper. No “Marlin style” recompilation required. The spec sheet for the motors shows that the rated torque of 84oz/in is at 30rpm, 36V and, I’m guessing, the rated maximum current of 1.3A. I am using 12V, thank goodness I had the 2209’s which can supply more current.
The random cutting out and random movement of motors was down to poor electrical connections: the supplied DuPont connectors just don’t fit the JST XH terminals for the motors (or end-stops) properly. I crimped the correct terminals and that fixed these problems.
The X axis and Y axes insufficient movement had an additional cause: I hadn’t tightened the grub screws of the 16T pulleys. These screws had fallen out completely. It’s amazing that these axes moved at all!
