The Least I Can Do - LowRider 2 in London, UK

[kvcummins (K Cummins)]

@dart1280

I can’t quite visualise how you mean the rail flipped and tapped…??

╲           ╱
  ↗ ╲╱↖
      ╱╲
╱            ╲

The UTF-8/ASCII doersn’t quite line up, but those are the two alu angles, and the arrows point to where you would drill and tap holes in the upper angle to screw in the bolts to hold bearings that would then ride on the lower angle.

[dart1280 (Mike)]

Gotcha!..Yes… but I would need more rails… and still need to mount the upper rail on the carriage. Thanks for the explanation though.

[Tiago_dants (Tiago Dantas)]

Hello, first of all thank you for your work. Could you send a photo of what you said you installed 3/4? I couldn’t understand with the translation.

[dart1280 (Mike)]

Ummm… perhaps you replied to the wrong person Tiago?

Getting there!

I found some white PET-G… good job colour matching was not on the job sheet!

thanks for the ‘prod’ Jack.

STL & SAT

[Tom (Tom Schoenhofer)]

I like this alu angle idea and will start looking for parts.

On my table I have a slight problem with the sides being not perfectly straight and smooth and there is some binding. Instead of rebuilding the sides I’ll add rails, or maybe just one rail.

It looks like these 4 new bearings on just one side will be enough to locate the carriage in the X direction and give me a nice straight Y. Then I don’t have to worry about the rails (or table sides) being parallel.

My table is not full length, I only need a straight 63" long /\ rail.

Tom

[jeffeb3]

Original 3/4" strips are here:

Jeffeb3's Low Rider Build

Well, I am circling the drain, and I have a workaround that is working for my simple test. The Z rails (the 11" pipes) are square to the table top as long as the wheels are in line. After moving forward and backward, it gets misaligned. I thought I could fix that by loosening the connection on the long pipes, but duh, I can only make them shorter, longer, or trapezoidal by moving those. But they are a parallelogram. I think I need to reprint the little pieces in the middle of that joint, at lea…

But I have since used aluminum angle like this:

Jeffeb3 Low Rider Table v2

[IMG_20210425_165719] Back in its corner. I added 3/4" aluminum angle. I bought the 1/8" thick ones, but I think it was a waste of money. They were $20 each. Oh well. It rode very smoothly when I didn’t have the belts on. Let’s hope it stays as smooth. I am reworking the hose/wires next. Then I will plug it in.

[Tiago_dants (Tiago Dantas)]

I finally got it, thank you very much Jeff and Mike.

[jchidley (Jack)]

I have been solving some issues over the last few days. My LR2 has:

• Not been homing the Z axis as the Z motor was stalling
• Randomly cutting out on various axes, or moving axes without request.
• X and Y axes not moving properly while cutting

The Z motor stalling (one side only) was because that motor couldn’t cope with the weight of the router on that side, the electronics which were mounted there and the weight of my longer-and-thicker-than-average steel pipes.

Klipper came to into its own: I increased the 2209’s run current from 0.8A to 1.2A and reduce the speed of movement down to 4mm/s, to give 30 rpm, by editing the config file and restarting Klipper. No “Marlin style” recompilation required. The spec sheet for the motors shows that the rated torque of 84oz/in is at 30rpm, 36V and, I’m guessing, the rated maximum current of 1.3A. I am using 12V, thank goodness I had the 2209’s which can supply more current.

The random cutting out and random movement of motors was down to poor electrical connections: the supplied DuPont connectors just don’t fit the JST XH terminals for the motors (or end-stops) properly. I crimped the correct terminals and that fixed these problems.

The X axis and Y axes insufficient movement had an additional cause: I hadn’t tightened the grub screws of the 16T pulleys. These screws had fallen out completely. It’s amazing that these axes moved at all!

[vicious1 (Ryan)]

@jchidley

I hadn’t tightened the grub screws of the 16T pulleys. These screws had fallen out completely.

The grub screws strike again!!!

[jeffeb3]

@jchidley

Klipper came to into its own: I increased the 2209’s run current from 0.8A to 1.2A and reduce the speed of movement down to 4mm/s, to give 30 rpm, by editing the config file and restarting Klipper. No “Marlin style” recompilation required.

Those particular settings are also stored in eeprom and can be controlled by gcode (M906? M203?).

[kvcummins (K Cummins)]

@vicious1

The grub screws strike again!!!

Dun-dun-DUNNNNNN

[jchidley (Jack)]

@jeffeb3

@jchidley

Klipper came to into its own: I increased the 2209’s run current from 0.8A to 1.2A and reduce the speed of movement down to 4mm/s, to give 30 rpm, by editing the config file and restarting Klipper. No “Marlin style” recompilation required.

Those particular settings are also stored in eeprom and can be controlled by gcode (M906? M203?).

I am sure you are right about those specific parameters. In my investigations I also:

• changed from 5 motors in series, using 3 ports and no end-stops, to 5 motors in parallel with individual end-stops.
• moved motors between ports (moving the Z-axis from Z to E0)
• using two boards (SKR Pro and a Creaility 3D 1.1.4) simultaneously with different combinations of drivers and end-stops on my LR2
• changed pin directions of various ports
• using the 2209 first in standalone mode and then using serial link control

All of the above reconfiguration was done by just changing printer.cfg and restarting Klipper / firmware without recompiling.

[jeffeb3]

That is definitely true.

The one setting I wish was eeprom/gcode setting is the bed size.