You will enjoy the AD5M I think!
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More than he thinks! Im in love with mine
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its 399 at the website though, and takes 3 weeks to arriveā¦
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I bought mine at 298 with the enclosure bundle.
But my core took nearly 18hs. Im so happy with this (0.6 nozzle)
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considering i had to baby my old one for every print, i already ran 3 prints off this with zero issues. the automatic bed levelling is awesome, and the first layers are super smooth. im loving it
planning to do the enclosure prints later today.
not sure if ill stick with stock software- im having issues with flash APP and the cloud, but can access in lan mode, but dont really know what Klipper will get me. remote monitoring via cam would be nice i guess. save me a walk. I used Octoprint on the other printer with a remote APP and it was a great addition.
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Amazon is of course a marketplace where multiple sellers can all sell the same item, so itās probably just different sellers pricing it differently.
One thing to bear in mind though is, given the choice, you want to buy from a seller that is officially Flashforge, or buy it from their website, so that if some little part should fail and you need to connect for after-sales support, you can provide them a legitimate purchase proof that shows that it wasnāt from some nefarious seller that bought a batch cheap at wholesale and selling them ā that is not officially Flashforge.
One exception to this is if you get such a good deal that it makes it worth it to not bother with having after-sales support. For instance, with me buying my third one, I found an amazing deal on AliExpress, and with the use of coupons I got one for only $175. So obviously if some little something goes wrong with it, Iām not gonna go to Flashforge for support with it.
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All 3 listed Flashforge as the seller. IDK
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Hmm. Maybe just multiple listings from same seller.
Itās all the same product, and Amazon policies will govern and will protect you if a seller tries do you dirty. So I would just go with the lowest price you can find.
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Flashprint/flash forge orca its kind of old. If you use the new orcaslicer you should do the Klipper mode. Its pretty reversible with an usb ot the macro so you dont loose anything. The new version of the mod have some issues with the wifi but in the guide they explain how to solve it pretty easy.
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Ugh, that takes me back - the very first printer I ever bought that happened to me - I had a problem and the seller said itās a manufat]cutters warranty speak to them, went to the manufacturer and they asked for invoice number and of course I didnāt have one as it wasnāt a direct sale.
Still have the printer, hasnāt been used in oh must be almost a decade now 
thats beautiful.
did you use the OrcaSlicer? Could you share settings so i can plug them in? Appreciate it! Thanks
I just used the bambulabs x1 profile sirayatech published for the filament, ran a test, used the max temp the printer can print with and it was perfect. (Its not pla, thats Pet-cf)
For pla&petg i used the flashforge standard profiles and they workes right out of the box!
Did you run the CaliLantern on the Adventurer prior to printing LR4 parts? Am curious if i need to account for doing that also.
I may print off a LR3 core and get my machine running properly again, and finish the plaque job before upgrading to the LR4. Kinda makes sense.
Thanks
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You should do at least 1 calilantern test for every type of material you print and save the skew profils with the distintion. That said you need the klipper mod. The stock firmware is a locked klipper firmware/proprietary
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I did some prints before and some after. Many were before. When I ran the CaliLantern test on the two I had at the time, one scored stellar before any adjustments and the other one scored decently. I did make the corrections, but I was getting good prints even before that.
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what about infill density and type? I seem to remember the LR3 parts had a pretty nice table of suggested printing requirements, havent actually spent time looking at the LR4 files.
Thanks
I used the recomended infills#s for each part.
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Most seem to choose āCubicā infill. The LR4 docs should show a chart for infill percent per part, and for number of perimeters, I think 3 is a common choice.
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as a hobbyist, what functionality am i locked out of?
Im sure as I read more now that the machine is here, Iāll trend towards doing it, but Iām just curious if i could print these parts without having to go to klipper. I like knowing all the data coming into the decision stream (im a scientist and a nerd).
https://docs.v1e.com/lowrider/#buy
Scroll down and you will find the chart