Ooooooffff
That sounds like a challenge!! I want to do a bee inlay now to prove it can be done.
I’m going back over your boom arm build. I’m thinking of doing a YouTube video on the LR3, and cutting the parts for the boom arm as the project. Although I may do a bee inlay now, instead. Or as well. Show the extremes.
That’s the spirit. 
Did I share all the boom arm files? I am going to check.
What did you use for your pivot pin, again? 1/4” rod or 1/2” conduit?
I’m debating actually just going with a single side, and not a box, and having the hose simply attached to the arm with zip ties or Velcro wraps. Would simplify both the actual arm and the mount build
I used 8mm threaded rods and nylock nuts.
I actually made plans for a shorter, extendable arm for the table itself but haven’t gotten around cutting it.
If you just use a single side you are losing a bit of stiffness, but not too much. There is s lot of maths involved and I am not very good at it.
Yeah, the reason I mentioned the single piece version is that there is a boom arm a YouTube woodworker mad a year ago, and it kinda went viral in the field- pretty much every new shop tour in the space has one. It’s basic, but no one has mentioned issues. Not a new idea but he he showcased it in his opening series of videos and it took off
I do like the box though, is much more substantial plus it contains the hose. I’m not a massive fan of the ‘hose ziptied to the side’ aesthetic
And a power cord (that I still have to install) and one more empty pipe for air if I ever buy a compressor. ;D
I am just going to say”Ditto”, in regards to what I see in the forums, from you Ryan, and others- your dedication to this task is commendable, to say the least.
I am in Perth, Western Australia, and found a number of people here also building this (hopefully) remarkable machine. I am printing my parts and building my bench at the moment, and have most parts to start my build, with the last coming from V1.
Parts are difficult to come by sometimes, but if you look hard enough, and wait long enough, they will come!
Happy building to all.
Anthony0281
Hey anthony,
Yeah it is is hard to get parts in Aus, particularly the SKR PRO board, but like you said, keep looking and you can find them.
Unless of course you were in a super hurry and buy the wrong board… like me … sigh … slap forhead
I got my board direct from Bigtreetech, with my screen, 6xTM2209, free shipping included.for less than cost from Ryan. But I still have to select files and flash them. I love that part.
I have been following your adventures in the forum, sounds like you’re learning lots, and lots of advice coming your way.
I will have to take some photos of my bench building, and my prints, so I can put them up soon, I am hoping to have it all built by mid year🤞
Hey,
Yes, shipping from the states for the land down under is quite expemsive, but i am going to be doing a buy from him soon for at least some bits and possibly a touch plate, but watching @DougJoseph latest video with the magnet touchplate build i might be moding mine to be like that.
Progress wise mine will be slowed right down, as i have to save up for the router. But i am playing with just using the VEVOR brand, (cheap and good reoprts) for the starting basic stuff.
Due to this delay i am probably going to get printing another core and start setting up for an upgrade to the IDEX build. With the width of my gantry and the fact i am all over the code / pins file anyway, due to my dumb arse buying the wrong board, the extra stumbling around VSCODE hopefull will not be that bad. The ability to cut and clean up in one session, it seems like definitely something i will use.
Yes, and the tiny touch plate kit from Ryan includes a magnet, which gets held in a clip that has the wire attached to the clip. So the only difference would be my mod has the wire attached directly to the magnet, and the wire and the magnet are in a little 3-D printed container.
It’s awfully painful, but in one package and as a percentage of the total build and if you don’t think about it after you’ve hit the “buy” button - it hardly hurts at all - AND it’s very convenient AND it’s nice knowing it’s all going to be there.
I was shaking so much last time I ordered from Ryan that I hit a couple of the buttons twice! 
Yeah,
Knowing the trouble i had getting the right parts this time, the next time i might just fo it.
Of course we have not spoke about the elephant in the room, being rhe the south pacific paso being a extra 20% o top of the price listed (exchange rate) and then the shipping.
Great country I live in, but online shipping sucks.
My apologies to all as I recently ordered some gear, then had a thought that I should have asked others if they needed anything.
For reference, my order was US$107.50, $40.60 being freight, and exchange rate made this Au$168.
So, ouch, but I bit the bullet and brought my wire extenders, touch pad, micro switches, and some router bits that Ryan recommended.
I decided that I shouldn’t mind as I got some good deals, and paid over the odds for others, as well as wasted plenty of filament with printer issues, and having to mod my printer.
I should hopefully have my bench ready for when parts arrive from Ryan.
Cant wait to see some progress, keep it up!
No need to apologise!
I am just waiting for things to go out of stock so I can have an excuse for further delays!
Hey guys
Sorry for the absence- been getting raked over the coals recently with illness and injury. In the past 2 months I’ve had :
Covid
Strep throat
Lingering Covid cough (2 months now)
Back injury- 4 herniated disks bedridden 4 weeks
Constant migraines, 2-3 a week each lasting 12-18 hours
Last week was my first week healthy enough to get some stuff done, other than the cough, and I have a spine surgery consult today.
Looking forward to catching up on the threads I’ve missed
Had a request to mill some elongated holes, 1/8” in 1/4” acrylic for an aquarium project.
Any starting points to look at for milling acrylic on the LR3?
Thanks
Hey Neil, found this topic helpful for my first acrylic cuts First Acrylic cut - Advice please, am using down cut single flute bit, trochoidal when holes/pockets/contour are wide enough. Down cut isn’t pulling through material as quickly as upcut, discovered my core needed tightening too, so I slow down Z mm/s a bit and over cut hole depth more than usual. Hope that helps, am still new to cutting acrylic, but happy with how cuts are turning out (getting chips not molten plastic around the bit) for my enclosures and MP3DP V4, have only cut 1/8" thick, so no experience with 1/4" thick material.
Thanks for the tips!
Appreciate it