Table Ideas for those just getting started

You can add “torsion” style skin strength to your #1 design, without adding a lot of weight, by using 1/8" hardboard for top and bottom skins, with a thicker MDF spoil board on top of the top skin. The 1/8" hardboard would make a great skin for not much weight.

Also, if you plan on using screws into the table for material hold down purposes, may I suggest modifying the layer order to be: bottom skin of 1/8" hardboard, then your 2x4 structure, then a top skin of something like either OSB or playwood, for good, strong screw-gripping, then your MDF spoil board.

This advice actually goes with both your #1 design, a CNC cut torsion box, or your #2 or whatever.

A great part of the strength and rigidity of a torsion box is in the skins, and lack of both a top and bottom skin drastically cuts down the rigidity.

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Ah okay so it sounds like you guys, Doug and Bartman, both agree, skin the entire box, top and bottom. 1/8" hardboard isn’t the easiest to get locally but I’ll check around, if I need to do 1/4" so be it, just a few lbs and $$ extra.

For skinning, I really just need to worry about the main area right? I can ignore the front 7" and rear 10" tabs that are just for the rollers? (support them in another way) And if so, should I seam it long ways or short ways (and have it land on a middle X strut)?

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As with most things in life, there is no one “correct” answer. It may end up being a trade off based on weight, strength, ease of construction, material availability, other uses for the table (like using it as a workbench), etc.

Skin at least one full side, for sure, and possibly both. Leaving the edges unconnected will allow for twist and unwanted movement (IMO)

Doug’s idea of skinning both sides with a thin skin and adding a spoil board does have a lot of merit, in that it creates the “torsion” model that adds a lot of rigidity in various axis. It is also quite light. It does require some thought as to how to attach legs without cutting away the skin

My idea of using a thicker skin on the top surface only is possibly less rigid in all directions, but may have enough strength in the thicker layer to compensate for that (or not - I’m not an engineer, just a bloke with a very limited bit of carpentry experience). It does have the benefit of simplicity to build, a good strong surface to attach hold down screws to, and keeps the bottom available to attach legs to in areas other than the perimeter edges. I also plan to use the table as a work platform for building and assembling various carpentry projects, so I need a good solid surface that can withstand some punishment.

What is right for you? Possibly one, or the other, or neither.

As far as the tabs or extensions for the rollers, as long as the frame is fully attached to the skin, you should be able to just add boards on the outside and top of the frame as you have shown (as long as they don’t extend too far without support).

As far as orientation of the skin, I would try to keep the seams to a minimum, which would mean placing the full sheet lengthwise on the frame against one edge, then applying a full length narrow strip against the open edge, and another single piece at the end (again, see the pictures in my post above). If you skin both top and bottom, stagger the seams so they aren’t in the same location both top and bottom (seams are the weak point, so don’t have them at the same location on both surfaces).

Good luck on your table ideas!

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I did mine with a Bora Centipede table base with MDF tacked on top of flat planed 2x4 (1.5 x 3 now) frames and it’s working great. I would have done the floor thing, but my back already hates me so I spent the money to lift it 30" off the ground. Honestly, I think the spoil board arrangement is taking up more of my brain power at this point than the table build ever did.

I like the IDEA of a torsion table, but by no means do I think it’s NEEDED. When I get a bigger shop and the LR3 can have it’s own permanent spot, I’ll probably look into a torsion table build and repurpose my Bora toys.

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I would say so, yes.

Would not even a really good torsion box warp over time if not fully supported, very flat?

It shouldn’t, unless you make the frame from an unstable timber. It’s easy enough to level two trestles and that’s all you need for support.

Here’s my base - the table top just sit’s happily on top - I’ve used 3mm MDF skins. I think on the LR2 I used a 12mm top skin because I had it - details are on this thread-

My unnecessarily complicated yet simple torsion table for the LR3 build starts about here:

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Hi Ryan, nice looking table are there plans for this? Building mine now but unsure of the table to build.

Kev

Hi Kevin, I used this one, Parametric Table

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