I agree with this. I installed a set of holes for using PVC as a fence. The variability in the x-axis endstop creates situations where the origin of my fence “wanders”. I can approximate it with a v-bit and some patience to reset it, but it would be nice if the x-endstop could be more of a constant reference. I get that it will need readjustment if I completely disassemble, but at this point it needs adjustment if I just do anything with the x-belt. Not a show stopper, but as a tinkerer (part of what I enjoy about building my own machine) I do think this is an annoyance.
Okay lets hold off on feature changes until you guys see it please. We have been working hard to fix everything we can. Not everything can but we all clearly understand why. So when it is released we should all have answers for anything that is not “more convenient”.
You will see what it took to “fix” this soon enough. I will say you might prefer it the way it was. You should have only ever needed to touch your belt tension once or twice so I never saw this as a problem but I did change it. I can not imagine this ruined many, if any, projects.
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Hello everyone. One of the things I had to modify on my LR2 and when I started thinking about my LR3 were several of the parts that hold the NEMA 17 motors since my motors are 58mm tall. So they would not enter the accommodations. I understand that it may be just my problem, so in that case I am going to do the same thing I have done so far, modify the pieces taking into account the modifications that this may generate in the general assembly.
I have no problem modifying the heights to fit my motors as long as it is somehow possible. And if not, I will have to buy new engines. But I don’t believe it. My study in LR3 indicated to me that I could achieve it.
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It’s absolutely true, after few adjustments I never touched it again, so I agree with You that it is not a real problem, but I always watch things from a tecnical perspective, and the “uncostrained” fixed points drive me crazy 
For example the fact that the Makita didn’t work with M3/M5 Gcodes was a problem for my mental healt 
after few days of thinking I soved it, and now I reached the peace of mind 
Anyway, the V4 seems to have ALL the upgrades I really wanted on the V3: bigger tubes and squared core for more torsion resistance and more protected cables. Great job! 
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48 is the absolute max, editing is not an option on Y and Z. I have never seen a taller nema 17 spec’d anywhere.
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This was/is far easier on the LR3 than the 4. There are many features that depend on the motor cavities which are going to be super difficult to modify for taller motors. Even shorter motors would be a lot of work to modify for. For the amount of work it would take… I’d just buy the specified motors.
I think it’s a bit late in the process for feature requests now, but so far, I think that many features asked for here have been added already.
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Just turn the wires out if they are using the big plugs, if they are just wired direct they will fit.
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I think a really easy “Upgrade” would be button cap hex screws. I use them on both my lowriders and we’ve discussed it with two other guys who made them. One got the default screws from the store and ended up replacing them with BCHS halfway through build. They are just an easy and free quality of life upgrade. In au i got the m8 BHCS from bunnings and they look super.
The m5 stuff, I had to get from a specialised fastner store, but they are quite common and usually cheaper than big box hardware places for same length/quantity.
I got a 3D printer kit several years ago (Anet A8) and to put it together there were I think six different sizes of cap head screws and six sizes of allen keys. 
The screws are easy enough to tell apart by looking closely (and the baggies were marked) but the allen keys were constant trial and error. I have hated that style of fastener ever since.
My #2 phillips works on just about every phillips screw I use with a single tool, over a wide range of sizes.
For set screws there is no other choice and I am reminded of how annoying they are. Here one works and the other four don’t:
Me either. But is only been 2 and a half years so fair enough. I’m optimistic I might get there for the LR6 discussions
That’s encouraging!
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And yet… Here I am.
I always wanted to have indents for m5 nuts on all the surfaces. The ones on the rear surface are 4.5 mm, but some smaller ones would be great. Just enough to get it most of the way there, even if you still need to still use a wrench later.
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Mine are 0.71 Nm and 58 mm long, but I fully understand that they are not standard. I’m going to buy the 0.59 Nm (840Z) 48 mm ones. Thanks!
Just wait until the final release, then you can still buy the steppers from Ryan (if you are from America, that is).
Looking forward to this. Was looking into a nice DIY CNC and i think this will be it. With the Ali back to school promotions, a lot of the parts are on their way 
Once parts are released i can start printing .
Allen keys suck, but T-handles aren’t so bad.
With only four total screw types on LR4 managing driver size for screw sizes isn’t terrible.
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I’ve become a fan of buying additional drivers for each tool and keeping them stored with the tool. Especially true of the allen wrenches. I think I’ve bought 10 of the T handle sets from harbor freight when they go on sale for $5.
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Almost there. There are in total 6 uncaptured M5 nuts on the release candidate LR4, and at least one person has an added part just to capture those. All of the strut plate nuts are captured.
The 90° bend allen keys are for emergency use. Those stay next to the printer, or whatever in case I need something and don’t want to walk to the tool box. For assembly, I have a multi-bit screwdriver with all of the sizes, (and the bits work in the cordless power screwdriver,) and a couple of clearly marked small drivers that have 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3mm sizes that does for most things. Since I know what size everything takes, no guesswork, no trial and error.
For whatever reason the hex drive screws are easier to get from Amazon, and the heads are less prone to stripping out, so I’m happy to use them.
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Interesting thing I learned - if you use an electric screwdriver on nyloc nuts the friction melts the nylon and you get to print and install a new X belt tensioner!
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This is such a cool thread. I certainly don’t think of the comments as feature requests for LR4, just general thoughts and ideas, either to be discarded or added to a distant roadmap.
I love my LR3 so much that while I’m excited to see the LR4, I’m not completely sure I’ll jump right away. For the projects I’ve been working on, the LR3 is a great design and a capable tool.
But I also find it interesting when others comment on things I also change. I love the hex button/cap heads and generally switch to them everywhere it makes sense. I love to be able to keep a stack of hex wrenches next to the table and know that I have the right tool available for whatever needs to be done.
Thanks so much for the work pushing the LR4 forward!
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