He’s talking about the rails I think.
Good point. Thx
Ah sorry, misunderstood
In the docs page, there were affiliate Amazon links to get parts through v1e as well.
I used these when I ran out and needed them fast.
I haven’t either, other than the occasional clogging etc. I have three and I was pretty excited about using all three to run for the LR4 but then saw the comments. Plus, with yesterday being Prime day the Flashforge machine mentioned was down to $280 and I was like well, given what I see for it’s print speeds and quality AND adjustment for xz/yz, maybe I should just get one anyways. I may end up just keeping it, who knows at this point.
I’ll probably do the Cantilantern this weekend and see how my printers fair. I mostly print keychains to sell so accuracy is not critical, but for this I’d like to be a little better than “close enough.”
Please tag me in the new post and I can report my findings their as well.
You found the hidden easteregg. Like, not that hidden. Actually adds a bit of stability maybe?
Your drag chain on the LR3 is screaming for an aluminium profile as a support. I‘ve got it somewhere in my Froschkönig build.
Ohh nice, I didn’t even think it was an issue, I’ll find it on the build!
Also my phone isn’t pictured, but I run my LR3 while working and keep the cam on it, with the emergency shut down on my phone right behind it!
Here it is: Der Froschkönig - Lowrider 3 in Oldenburg, Germany - #73 by Tokoloshe
Did the same for the LR4 with slightly modified holders instead of the holders for the vacuum hose.
Jeff, did you print that on the X1C? It looks great!
I did, it’s a bone stock x1c with the same nozzle I bought it with a year ago
I’m using 1.25" 0.065" wall. 1.25" is 31.75mm, and 0.065" wall is 1.65mm. that’s a little thicker, but it’s not entirely out of range.
My build using the 32mm parts seems to have gone well. There certainly ARE some points where the fit isn’t what it would ideally be, however once everything is clamped down, I didn’t find any movement in the final parts that is a problem. I can rotate the Y rail in its clips pretty easily, for example, but the positioning is still good, it does not move.
I just ordered the kit off Tindie from Bart! That was a good deal!
Edit: The Fluid Dial kit
It is laser engraved, but it is not birch plywood — it’s 5.x mm thick hardboard, that came from Home Depot, sold there as “wainscotting” and it came already primed white on one side. I did not paint it. The primed surface is seen here!
Thanks!
Whoop!! Now go print! We want the finished product by Sunday!!!
Oh Oldenburg. Not so far away. I am from Hannover
If you’re going to build a 2x4 table for the LR4, would you do 4Ft on X or 4Ft on Y?
The strongest is to make the X axis be the short one. Some people who plan to make their table longer later, do it the other way.
What nozzle size are you using? I Was planning on using 0.6 but I am not sure if that will cause any issues with the print.