Required software and procedure to update firmware

I’ve been through the “how-to” on the site, and needed to post here because I am lost.

I bought my Rambo 1.4 from V1 ~4-5 years ago, pre-loaded with the firmware for the original MPCNC.

About 2 years ago, I changed my setup to the Lowrider 2, keeping the same firmware on the Rambo that was used with the MPCNC.

I have now built the LR3, with endstops, and want to update the firmware on my Rambo board so I can use the end stops and repetier.

I have zero clue how to use arduino, but from what I understand, this is the software required to update firmware.

I have downloaded the Rambo DualLR firmware from the site, but don’t have the slightest idea how to delete the old firmware and upload the new to the Rambo.

Lastly, I’ve always used the little LCD to control the CNC, never tried repetier until this last weekend. I got the CNC to “connect” to the repetier host, but then when I tried to move the X, Y, and Z, nothing happened?

Bottom line, is there a video out there that shows how to flash via arduino and use repetier?

I truly appreciate the V1 community, and all of your support. I have tried to do this solo, but I have some minor head injuries that prevent me from comprehending long text or detailed instructions. One too many hits over the years :-(.

Thanks!

I would help if I could, but my experience is all with BigTreeTech boards and using Visual Studio Code to edit firmware for them. However, others here have much deeper history and will be knowledgeable about your situation.

Arduino has been left behind by Marlin. The newer version of arduino might work, but we don’t have good instructions for it.

We have also changed how we compile the code.

If you downloaded the V1CNC_Rambo_DualLR from MarlinBuilder releases, you should find a firmware.hex file inside the top zip.

You can flash (flashing is overwriting the program) the rambo with XLoader, and you don’t even have to open arduino or platformio (vscode).

The rambo needs 12V. Even when flashing. If you are using Windows 7, you will need drivers. 8+ should have them already.

The repetier host problem is probably that you aren’t actually connected.

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Good to know, I’ll try xloader. I think I saw a “how to” on that. I do have the Rambo connected to the 12v power source, my problem is usually with software (ie repetier).

Thank you Jeffeb3

Follow the link the forum makes whenever we type xloader for the how to. It should be easy. If it isn’t, post here and @robertbu will probably know what to do.

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Make sure you download XLoader from the “Pre-configured here” link. The version at the “source here” link does not have the devices.txt populated.

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I think the pre configured link is broken

The pre configured link seems to be broken. Any ideas on how tho configured it?. I looked at GitHub, but don’t understand the instructions. “Connect CO1/ etc……”

The link does appear to be broken. The issue with the source link is that the devices.txt is not populated for the ATMEGA2560. What you can do:

  1. Download the source version
  2. Unzip all the files to a known folder
  3. With a text editor, edit the devices.txt file and add the following line:
Mega(ATMEGA2560);atmega2560;stk500v2;115200;

This will be the device you select when running XLoader to flash the Rambo board.

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Thanks I’ll give it a try

That worked! thanks now to rewire switches

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Getting closer! Using pin 45, and trying to use fusion. The laser turns on and off, but is at reduced power. Any advice on trouble shooting this. using Fusion might be missing something in the post processor.

My laser was plug-and-play wrt the Rambo board. Are you turning your laser on and off with g-code or the display? There was an issue with a version of Marlin turning the laser on and off via the display where the laser would come on briefly and then go out. It is an issue with the safety timeout.

If it is just reduced power with g-code, can you send me a snipped of that code? Note the PWM values for the Rambo board need to be in the range of 0 to 255, so you may need to make adjustments in whatever tool you are using to generate the g-code.

Did you measure the voltage you are getting at the laser? If you used smaller gauge wire for your longer run, there might be a drop.

Did you wire the laser using the companion board, or directly? If directly, did you include a ground connection between the laser and the control board? This will be required if you use a separate power supply for your CNC control board and your laser module.

Are you sure you have the focus distance right? Out-of-focus makes a huge difference in cutting ability.

[quote=“Robert Bunney, post:13, topic:37285, full:true, username:robertbu”]
My laser was plug-and-play wrt the Rambo board.

Do you have a link to the laser you are using? I like Plug-n-play. The laser I am using was given to me 2.5W. Plan on buying a real one

Are you turning your laser on and off with g-code or the display? There was an issue with a version of Marlin turning the laser on and off via the display where the laser would come on briefly and then go out. It is an issue with the safety timeout.

I am using Gcode M3
G0 Z0 F300
; >>> LASER Power ON
M3 O255
; COMMAND_POWER_ON
; MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN
G1 X-4.377 Y16.608 F355
; MOVEMENT_CUTTING
G1 X-13.458 F355
G1 Y-8.988 F355
G1 X-12.79 Y-9.719 F

If it is just reduced power with g-code, can you send me a snipped of that code? Note the PWM values for the Rambo board need to be in the range of 0 to 255, so you may need to make adjustments in whatever tool you are using to generate the g-code.

Did you measure the voltage you are getting at the laser? If you used smaller gauge wire for your longer run, there might be a drop.

I did not measure. Very short run

Did you wire the laser using the companion board, or directly? If directly, did you include a ground connection between the laser and the control board? This will be required if you use a separate power supply for your CNC control board and your laser module.

I have wired directly, I do have a separate controller board off Amazon, not sure it’s compatible , or necessary

I am using a separate 12V supply. I did tie the grounds together

Are you sure you have the focus distance right? Out-of-focus makes a huge difference in cutting ability.

The way I determined that I was not getting full power is, I disconnect the PWM line, Power increases

I want to thank you again for taking the time to help me work through this.

Do you have a link to the laser you are using? I like Plug-n-play. The laser I am using was given to me 2.5W. Plan on buying a real one

This is the latest version of the laser I use:

M3 O255

This is full power, so it is not a g-code issue.

The way I determined that I was not getting full power is, I disconnect the PWM line, Power increases

I’m surprised the laser did not turn off when the PWM line was disconnected. Maybe the logic is backwards, in which case I’m surprised the laser turned on at all. There is a provision in Marlin for reversed logic where 255 is off and 0 is fully on. You might try sending a PWM signal of 0 (i.e. M3 0) or M4), and see what the laser does.

Are you sure this laser was designed for a 5V PWM signal? Do you know if the laser PWM is analog? One thought is that the laser is expecting a 12V PWM signal and uses the voltage of that signal to determine the laser power. If so, a 255 value would produce 5V turning the laser on at less than half power. That does not explain how the laser increases in power when the PWM line is disconnected.

I ordered the laser you suggested. Again thanks for all the help!

There are several topics on this forum concerning this laser, and I believe there are links to mounting solutions.

Am I correct that the 40640 connects direct to the Rambo? No need for the adapter board? Any other hook up information would be appreciated.

It will directly wire to the laser, but personally, I used the adaptor board. It provided plug-n-play, with no wires cut or soldered. I did have to extend the PWM control from the Rambo board to the companion board. And, after hundreds of hours of laser use, I started to get arcing where the laser plugged into board. I write about how I rewired the board here.

But the companion board is not necessary. I purchased one of the $79 laser engravers when they were available and written about here. For use on that machine, I wired the module directly, and it works just fine.