I need to spend some time with the CAD obviously, but my big hirdle is fonding 2020 extrusion and fittings like the slide nuts for anything approaching a reasonable price.
The slide nuts are what’s really killing me. Start calculating it out with the 90° fittings at 2 per fitting, plus more 3mm ones for each rail and part mount, and the price tag gets dumb.
Where can these things be found at a reasonable rate?
Maybe I should just build another Repeat sfter all.
This kit that Ryan has linked before is what I built my Repeat V2 off of without having to buy any additional hardware. It comes with the 2020 extrusion, corner brackets, and t-nuts. This is everything you need for $100. Although the t-nuts that come with this set will make you crazy after a while. But I was still able to get the job done with this kit.
You can also find some printable tnut adapters. Just pop a regular nut into them. Several types on thingiverse, probably printables, too but I haven’t looked
Using Hammer nuts is self harm, and will shorten your life span. Donate to your nemesis.
You deserve better nuts…
Edit: Sent zyltech a strongly worded email: “Do you love or hate your Customers? Assuming you love them, stop harming their mental health by bundling hammer nuts … actionable constructive ramble continues …”
Yeah, $100… plus $75-$100 for shipping to here. After exchange and figuring on UPS giving me the finger on “brokerage”, probably over $300. Not so much an economical choice outside of the USA.
I have found some slide nuts on Ali Express that do seem affordable. All too often I see $14 (CAD) buying me 10 instead of 100. I’ll poke about the slow boat from China a bit longer to see what I can find. Fortunately this printer doesn’t need to be up and running really soon.
Still makes painted plywood frame pretty attractive.
Edit: most of this is just waffling, considering that I dropped a load of cash on a Duet 3 6HC control board, complaining about the extrusion cost is more of an annoyance than a barrier.
In the end, I think it was a too tight belt. One of the belts pulled out later in the day when I posted that. After I got it fixed, I didn’t tighten it nearly as much, and the problem seems to have gone away.
Info on the three point mount dimensions on the bed, does it have to be a perfect 45 degree triangle or Marlin can account for any dimensions?
Is there a Z mount for MGN9H, instead of MGN12? if not how easy to change it if make sense?
Printer sizing:
My goal was 300 print size, somewhere in the thread I saw (X - 100, Y -50, Z -50) now I realize print size is less and need to get 250 bed, what is the rule here?
Note on the frame: I was building a Voron 2.4 but ended up making the frame to fit MP3DP and also fallback option to Voron If I could not get it working.
Ouch. I’ just started work on mine, ill be cutting the extrusion soon.
I have 300mm rails for Z and Y and 350mm for X, which should give me (I think) a 250mm cube.
I ordered a 200mm headed build platform, but got a 235mm one, so this seems right to me. It’s a bit of wasted space, but I can live with 15mm of it. Cutting the rails to the exact size would also be weird.
I have not made one. I suspect it will be pretty tough as I do not think there is any possible room. Last I checked they cost the same, not worth the effort?
It is set for a 200x200 bed and 200x200 XY usable… Any dims you add to your axis you will add to your bed size as well. The CAD has all this shown on the bed plate.
Sounds good, on the MGN9H, you confirmed my fear, there is no space and will be complicated, not worthy the effort, I ended up manually drilling MGN9H holes and the screws are interfering with idlers, very tight fit, and lot of work, on one mount
For the other 2 Z mounts, for now I made an aluminum plate adapter which was less work, thanks to the MPCN!
To get to use 300 print size, do you think using EVA hotend mount system will be an easy swap with current hotend ? Was thinking to flip the rails, this will give space of about 25mm and allow for 300.
The hotend mount doesn’t have anything to do with the usable area, it just shifts the bed position.
Best you can ever get is the rail length minus the block size.
If you bought a voron kit, why did you choose not to make it and edit the snot out of this one instead? Surely mine doesn’t have the same curb appeal, and you have all the correct parts for the voron?
I noticed that when I scaled the model using the parameters, I got an error on the build platform support, it messed up with the front holes for the Z axis.
I did edit all 3 parameters for X, Y and Z at the same time, I might re-do one at a time, but I managed to fix the sketch (I think).
Yeah that part of fusion 360 is horrible. Solidworks kills it in parametric abilities. Fusion errors out so much when you change things. I am constantly losing projected lines. Frustrating.
What am i doing wrong here??? If im reading right i need to edit the linear rail length in the Parameters file but when i open it there isnt anything. This is my first time ever messing with a file like this. I wanting to make it at 300x300x400. But i cant for the life of me figure out how to adjust it in fusion to see how long the linear rail or the 2020 rail needs to be. I know its just something stupid im missing but i cant figure out what. Thanks in advance for any help.