A few of us have been gone for a while. I’m back and willing to help, but if you need a break I understand.
The self test is supposed to do just that.
What exactly doesn;t work? What are you doing to get there?
And just to be super clear what firmware are you using, the release version of the V4 mp3dp firmware? The nightly stuff leveling is broken and has been for more than a month I believe.
I grabbed this one. I thought the R was for repeat, vs the bedslinger.
V13RP_V4_SkrPro_2209-2.1.1.zip
When I power up the printer (notwithstanding the weird delay in seeing the printer in the TFT I still haven’t resolved), the pin drops twice and I get the red and blue lights, just like the other 3D touch. Home, xy touches off ok, carriage moves to safe spot, bed starts to raise, but triggering the pin doesn’t stop the bed.
When I flip the wires around in the plug the tft informs me of a generic error. I recompiled trying to use the 5 pins for the bltouch. Same result when i ground the wire I have labeled as the ground. When i swap those two just to be sure, the tft informs me that BL Touch has thrown an error.
It doesn’t really make any sense. I’m beginning to suspect a bad crimp somewhere. It’s just hard to think constructively right now because I’m still pretty frustrated over all the work I put in trying to get the sensorless homing to behave.
Ah, shoot…if I’m using the 3d touch as a z endstop, do I have to cut the pin off the Z drivers as well?
That is right as long as it is the 515 version, https://github.com/V1EngineeringInc/MarlinBuilder/releases/download/515/V13RP_V4_SkrPro_2209-2.1.1.zip
The screen takes a few seconds to boot, that is also normal. Then it reads the drivers, it takes 20-30 seconds.
Did you edit the Z size of your machine, not just the XY? With the bed drive it all the way to the nozzle and read the display to see how far it went. If it is not withing 10mm or so it will not home correctly. No guessing, it has to be failry close. That has to do with homing to a probe. from Z max.
All 6 drivers should have the pin removed.
I did edit the z dimension. I’d have expected an error in the pin trigger to stop the homing, not ignore it. But it’s easy enough to verify that I can work a tape measure (which almost certainly DOES need to be verified, lol).
I think the pins just moved into the lead as likely culprits, though. I have some work to do tonight on the cnc that = $$, though, so I’m going to try to stay away from the printer until that’s all done.
If the pins don’t do it, I’ll verify the z length, and if that’s not it I’ll make up some new wires and go from the probe to the board with those to see what I see
Once i got the cnc’d parts into the last, i had about 20 minutes to look at the printer. Clipped the pins, bingo bango.
Turns out i also had the fan wires swapped (hour end/part cooling), so I fixed that. Verified the steps/mm for xyz, found the data sheet for my extruder and punched those in. So nice for the measured extrusion to match the called extrusion on the first go!
Looks like my build plate was delivered yesterday, but I don’t know where it is (gotta ask the kids), forgot that this hotend uses different nozzles that won’t be here until tomorrow, and i just need to figure out a spool hanger.
Based on what I measured tonight, i think a short round of calibration is going to get me the best prints I’ve had in a while. Really looking forward to getting it dialed in. I checked the date on the first post…April 30, 2022. Just a few days shy of one year. Sheesh.
Not 100% sure how Marlin does tbings for the Z probe, i believe that the BLTouch port is a separate issue, but I know that you cannot use any of the end stop connectors if the diag pin is in the socket for the SKR Pro. The diag pin completely takes over the IO for the end stop pins.
If you are using the input pin on the BLTouch port, then you shpuld be able to use it, or at least that works on RRF. (I have a prototype firmware set up to copy the sensorless homing for Z, which requires the diag pin, but uses the BLTouch port for the Z probe.) It’s not working well, but the Z probe seems to still work.
The pins for X and Y (and E0) are bent out of the way though. I will probably remove the pins for Z anyway, since this firmware edit is ultimately going to go into the v3 repeat, which has the Z end stops.
That’s what I guessed (more or less), eventually. I did try moving everything to the BL Touch port, but either that didn’t work with any pins as well, or I just didn’t get it right. Niether would surprise me.
I really wanted the sensorless homing to work, but I’ve got way too many projects to shield any more time mucking with it, especially with so little human support in marlin. Really, I couldn’t find anything except some people enabling it in the firmware and showing videos of it working. Even for the klipper folks, it was basically the same.
For a chip with a feature that’s been out this long, I thought there would be a more direct path for help, but the people who responded to me all basically said the same thing: “it’s not great technology, even in industry, and even if you get it set up after huge amounts of time and frustration, it won’t be long before components wear or get dirty, and then it stops working until you recalibrate it with huge amounts of time and frustration”.
Upside, I’ve accepted it and wired in some endstops that I borrowed from my primo. When this guy starts printing I’m disassembling the old corexy so I’ll move those switches over to replace them.
I think a LR3 is next. Small one to replace the primo, and eventually upsize it. Jamie’s work on the IDEX LR3 looks really attractive for a laser/router combo, but I’ve got some learning to do.
So the homing works now?
Yep. I still have to calibrate the offset once I get some nozzles, but it functions as expected. I’ll take a video of the tft startup at some point just to confirm that it isn’t unusual.
I mean, I knew it would be something on my end. If a dozen (or more) people are using that firmware on that board and I’m the only one with a problem…
Just…a lot of time assembling this thing, and I really hate wiring. I gotta get some pictures though. I kinda like the way it’s coming together.
Totally understand. My MP3DP build took a very long time, and I have built 4 others. My LR build took hours, nothing, and I have only built 2 of those.
All said and done though…very worth it. By far my favorite build. I have a new h2v2s extruder to try, before I do it I think I am going to swap to hardened nozzles at the same time. For me the Mp3DPv4 has been extremely stable, now I want to see what I can do in terms of speed.
I’m pretty excited about this orbiter 2.0/mosquito combo. I think I’m gonna need sides on it before I can do much for speed, though. It’s a little on the large side, and I can see it flex when i poke it.
Well, i had a stepper misbehaving, so I replaced it with another. That one, too. Traced out a broken crimp (I really hate crimping wires more and more with every project).
Fixed the wires, still busted. The motor would just stop turning for a second or so. Jogs fine. Shoot. Assume something got popped in the stepper? Oh well, no more 2209s, swap it with a z driver. Oh, now the tft won’t power on? Awesome. Cycle a few times, it powers up, wont recognize the printer. More awesome. About 30 minutes of trying to flash firmware again (never took), magically everything comes back alive. Whatever.
At least everything mostly works now, but I’m underextruding a LOT. I measured out 100 mm on the extruder, that’s good. Flows all set to 100, that’s good, too. Filament measures 1.7.
I jacked up the flow to 150 and the walls look a little better but the infill is still trash.
Might be the bowden holder adding some drag. I had to print it on my old printer, and it’s not doing well these days.
Did you set the thermistor in the firmware for your hotend? Correct current for your Extruder stepper? I have it set really low for the hemera.
Pt1000 gets a 1047, so I set that but I can double check. It extrudes apparently ok when I’m not printing, although if I go too fast it will skip. Extra friction in that tube might explain that as well though.
The orbiter calls for 1.2A peak, 0.85 RMS so I set the current to 850.
I tried a new nozzle in case the first one was undersized, but I did measure a piece of extruded filament and it was really close to 0.4mm.
This feels like a much smaller problem, though. Extrusion should be easy to sort.
I let it finish at 200%
Guess my belts are lose, too?
I’m also noticing the fans are pointing more at the top of the nozzle than the bottom, I wonder if the nozzle is cooling off?
Just jacked the temp up to 270 and extruded some…came out fat and fast no problem. I’m going to see what I can figure out about the nozzle temp.
I will say if you were getting skipping of any kind it would be diagonally since it is coreXY ( think I need to verify tomorrow). That seems like something else. Seems like something is getting in the way of your X motion, is it hitting the bed tensioners, or something else? Try slicing the part on a different spot on your bed.
What speeds are you trying to print at? Steppers nice and warm or cold? Start real slow and work your way up. You are having a ton of unrelated issues so slow is real good at first to try an shake out any other random bugs.
It does seem to go diagonally when it shifts, but that could just be me.
Pulled the bowden, switched plastic, raised temp, turned off the fan, no improvement. Jack up the flow? Hey that looks better.
OK, Tony. The steps are right, you measured them. There are no restrictions, you’ve removed them. You’ve got a roll of plastic that runs fine on the other machine. What else is there? The slicer? Well, let’s go look.
No idea why cura defaults to 2.85mm for new machines.
Also, the left motor is running about 90, the right one at about 80.
I’m gonna slice this again, and then get a video of it running. I think I hear some noise. Might be that last z driver I swapped around, because I saw it drop while they were supposed to be lowering the bed.
I forgot to turn the speed back down, but I’m uploading a bit of video. I’ll explain it when it finishes, but probably not tonight.
In the meantime, the extrusion problem is solved.
Biggest reason I posted now instead of waiting for the video is a question:
I’ve got 4 TMC 2208 and 7 or 8 DRV8825s. I’m considering swapping out at least the Z drivers, since I’m pretty certain something is wrong with at least one of them. It’s there any downside to swapping the whole mess of them, aside from having to recompile? I can’t really say I had any complaints with the 8825s, and only bought 2209s for sensorless homing. I don’t really care about noise.
It throws a different error if the Z is not long enough. The Z only raises part way up, then it starts screaming at you… ask me how I know…
Alright what do you think of this clunking? Sounds like a ticking clock, about 120hz.
If I get that sorted, and this layer shifting, then I think I can move on to bed leveling (still haven’t messed with that).
Thanks.
