LR3 docs contain a schematic with dimensions. While designing the bench, found it helpful to import that image into Fusion 360, and calibrate the size. This helped me to measure good enough dimensions between things not already called out by the schematic. For example, I wanted to know how close the router bit will get to table edge given where Y-Axis blocks are located.
LOL, yeah right side of the diagram is inaccurate. Reason⌠My table size differs from the LR3 docs schematic, and I didnât bother to crop and copy-paste the right side to be accurate for my table. You probably guessed already and are going through something similar? Was focused on trying to understand the left side details enough to figure out where I wanted everything.
Yeah, I know exactly how you feel. My problem is I want to make a vacuum table again (obviously) and this time bought plywood instead of MDF because it is airtight from the get got. Because I also want to build a torsion box AND have the pipes inside of it, it requires a bit of planning and thinking where the holes have to be in the boxâŚ
This is what my plan looks like. Donât worry, I understand itâŚ
Nice! Look forward to seeing your LR3 vacuum table setup. Learned a bunch from your topic, had no idea that MDF could be used as an air filter.
Your MPCNCâs Vacuum table topic, and my want to utilize space inspired me to keep the front open. Open front leaves me with options for storage (see pic), or drop table scenarios or partial vacuum in the future. The middle to rear half is solidly closed, glued and screwed like youâd expect for a torsion box. The front half is different though⌠Although the ribs in-between the plastic storage containers are also glued and screwed, thereâs no front rail. Bottom ply skin is not glued yet, so this setup isnât a proper torsion box imo, am keeping an eye on deflection will tweak as needed.
problem: While doing this brain transplant, I struggled to label and write clearly on the tiny wires, didnât have enough different colored permanent markers and was worried labels would fall off. fix: Ended up resorting to binary encoded marks indicating orientation and port numberâŚ
I used to use white out for that. I didnât use binary as much as just roman numerals. I would mark both ends so I could tell is a specific SATA was connected to a specific drive.
One trick for writing tiny labels on wires is to write them on light-colored heat shrink BEFORE shrinking, then slip it on near the connectors, then shrink so it wonât slide around. You could put your name on a rice grain easily this way!
Ok thatâs cool looking. I very much dislike my wiring for my primo and really need to take the time to model up something better for the board. I like how you put In acrylic to be able to see it. Might have to do something like that. Sometimes it is nice to look down and see the light for the endstops and know everything is working as it should
Posted short #drag-race clip of V1E LowRider3 CNC, 24V xy = 21k mm/min, z = 2.6k mm/min, x=48", y=24"
BTT Octopus v1.1 running Marlin, BTT ESP32U Wifi Module running ESP3D.
Was testing rebuild with upgraded 24V power adapter, was 12V last time. Machine isnât maxed out, but I canât test more until later today, itâs almost 4am right nowâŚ
Also, since the last run, accidentally killed my SKR Pro 1.2 board and ended up rebuilding using an BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1, with ESP32U Wifi Module running ESP3D. Designed and printed a new modular extensible case to house everything, including a Raspberry Pi with itâs own touch screen.
Exploring the limits and pushing machines/software to non destructive failure is a great way to help identify which weaknesses/bottlenecks to improve.