Interesting, with where you dimmer is located, do you think it is possible it over heated?
From my understanding the current is proportional to the torque applied. So if you where doing a surfacing operation where the load on the bit was gradually increasing until it stalled out. You could have been running at the high side of the rated current for a while causing resulting in a lot of extra heat buildup. But a gradual stall like that should not have caused any greater current spike then starting the router (most motor specs actually use stall current and start current interchangeably).
Are you using a dw660 or another router? (I think the makita has a higher max current, that’s why I ask)
@Atom Sorry I missed where you asked what router. It’s a dw660. It is possible more than just the triac blew as I have not tested that board since I replaced the triac. I just know for sure my triac was dead and I replaced it with a new one to keep that dimmer as a spare. I have it mounted in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3034861 pretty much like the creator has his mounted. I was using it outdoors in Louisiana summer heat, though from an electronics perspective that heat isn’t extreme. I had cover on and there are no fans on that box just holes in the top and bottom for ventilation.
@jacobalberty no problem I am just asking because I don’t want to have the same issue and I don’t want you to have the problem again. Ambient temp is actually a huge factor when you don’t have forced cooling because it limits how fast the heatsink can dissipate heat. And the heat sink on the v1 dimmer is pretty small. I’m guessing it overheated and cooked the triac under the continuous heavy load. If I where you I would put a fan on that box before it gets real hot out just to be on the safe side. Doesn’t have to be anything big just somthing to ensure some air movement will go a long way.
That is interesting. I am surprised it would be more stressed when stuck. But triacs seem a little magic to me still.
Stall detection should be pretty simple, since you have speed feedback. The software would need to have another timer set up to interrupt or trigger if it has been X milliseconds since it has seen a trigger on the speed sensor. But there is a sensor there that should notice it completely stopped.
I agree it would be easy to implement stall detection. In other news on this front I just got my dimmer from Ali it is the 24A 600v version found here:
US $5.69 | Dimmer module for 16/24A 600V High Load, 1 Channel, 3.3V/5V logic
It has a BTB24-600b triac that is designed for motor controlls though the btb24-600bw is preferred being the snuberless version. I could replace the triac with the snuberless version for less then $3.
I haven’t hooked it up and tested it yet, but I think it’s going to work well. I will keep you all in the loop on how it goes.
Still struggling with this. I’m out of ideas that aren’t related to me screwing up the board, thanks to all the help I’ve gotten ruling other things out.
I still have one more, so I think my next plant is to desolder the components I need and trying to bread board it up again.
I don’t suppose anyone has a picture of their board soldered all up before I get started?
I know this was an old post but I have thought about that recently too.
Everybody has a smartphone with a touchscreen that could be used like a TFT display even from some distance.
Already have tried to connect a bluetooth module to the ESP wifi connector on the SKR 1.4 turbo board but had no success so far in communicating with the board. The BLE CC41-A bluetooth module is ok - tested it in another application I made some time ago.
When I have more time I intent to dig deeper into that. But before messing around with bluetooth I want to finish the LowRider build.
, I tried to move wires out of the way but things are mashed pretty tightly in my enclosure. Clearly this is my perf-board solution. I haven’t gotten around to rebuilding based on the PCB’s I recently received.
I added header pins all along both sides of the Nano board since I didn’t know what I might need to hook into for troubleshooting. I use some of these to drive the LCD that shows RPM on my build.
Thanks. It looks a lot like the board layout on the pcbs I have, so that’s really cool. Looks like the little resistor goes to the second pin on the sensor plug instead of the third, which is probably why the wire order has to be switched.
Thanks for taking the time. I don’t see anything obviously wrong with what I did except for the trace I broke (which I ‘fixed’ with a jumper). According to my multimeter, I didn’t screw anything else up around it. And I have the same symptoms as on my breadboard. I’ll document my next attempts in my troubleshooting thread.
So this seems like an old post thread, but just thought I’d bump it as I know with the Makitas they are a bit of a pain. So instead of controlling the Makita via the controller.
I was thinking of just making a plain rpm tacho like this one:
Has anyone made a suitable holder for the IR’s (emitter/receiver) to suit the lowrider 3 ?
Wonder if @DougJoseph has made one?
Anyone made this but to suit LR3?
Preferably want it screwed using the existing core or Makita holder. I have Doug’s magnetic holder in place to.
Anyone got something or able to make something for me to be 3D printed. Not good at designing 3D prints.
I have same setup as this pictured if that helps.(not actually mine)
The new routers have software built in that makes this nearly obsolete. We can not set a specific RPM but the rpm we do set is maintained and this is all that is really important.
