just ordered my dimmer board, my machine isn’t assembled yet - i don’t have heat or insulation in my workspace, so between that and my endless tweaking and reprinting of the electronics enclosure and vortex-based air-assist, cable management solutions, a customized version of a z independent vac setup with magnetic brush and a number of other things i won’t get into for brevity’s sake. long story short, this is going in a bin until i’ve gotten a number of other things setup, but i’ll keep y’all in the loop
i’m looking back through here and trying to discern what you landed on as a reliable enough tachometer… i have the emitter/receiver leds i picked up to build this:
will they work for this set up as well?
It already reads the speed you can output it in several ways. I believe I even have a bit of screen code in there already, maybe?
but i mean, how are you reading rpm? are you using the led/photodiode combo and a shiny thing on the collet nut? or is there a better way?
edit: i mean obviously theres a better way, but are you doing it any different in this setup is what i’m asking.
You read the speed on the end of the motor shaft, inside the housing away from all the dirt. A bit of white paint is all it takes.
so the leds have to fit inside the casing? i’m sorry, a lot of this stuff still makes me feel pretty dumb, and i’m a very visual learner, so reading about something doesn’t always make anything click
There’s a slick 3D printed part that holds the sensor inside the DW660. It is linked earlier in this thread (but it’s a ways back).
I used black and white fingernail polish to paint the top of the motor shaft.
There is code in the Nano sketch to read the RPM and display it on an LCD. I believe by default it is set up for a 1604 (4 lines of 16 characters) I had an old 1602 from an Arduino starter kit that I was able to tweak the code for. Mine shows actual RPM and commanded RPM.
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I take lots of pictures, takes some scrolling but it is here. PID -Hardware needed for a software fix
PS I think a single stripe is probably better than the 50/50 I show.
im sorry i guess i just hadnt gone back far enough, i see them now
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It happens, especially on a thread that is over 600 posts long XD
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PIDgin is my vote, pretty clever
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here are couple spins i came up with for the name:
PIDgine - not sure how well it reads to others, but it’s like PID engine
-or-
PIDdjinn - because it’s granting all our PID wishes
all pronounced like the bird - for PIDdjinn, the logo could be a silhouette of a bird with a genie hat on, rising like smoke out of the collet nut on a dewalt, or other generic router shape
or, just spit-ballin here - scrap the bird in lieu of a more classical genie depiction, then you get the same pronunciation harkening back to your original idea.
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ok so reading back through i see that initially the sensor wires were positioned too close the the mains and it caused interference, so if i wanted to run this sensor and the mains through my cable chain along with the z stepper wires and laser control wires what would i need in order for that interference to not be an issue? would this work?
Is it an issue for you? I currently do not have this issue. Hard to say but this thread is very long and documents my build process. I think we should be opening new threads for issues and builds so it is easier to keep track of things. I am also currently not pursuing this project so a lot of the nuances have slipped my mind.
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oh no i havent put anything together yet, im just reading and trying to figure out if i need anything else for the build
100% this.
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right!? i may whip something up in photoshop but i dont know if i can do the image in my mind justice
Heh, as long as it’s not rising up out of smoke from the mosfet 
well i mean they do call it magic smoke 
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So wild thought… Why not add stall detection to the nano code and have it shut down the speed controller if it detects a stall. Might save the dimmer module. I dont know how you’d communicate it back to marlin to end the program without changing the current hardware though so it would sitll just sit there skipping steps but if you’re sitting there supervising, as you should be stall detection could buy you a little more time to save your triac.