Makes me wonder if lots of open tabs and programs at once is confusing things…
That part is odd, no doubt.
The connection aspect on my machine takes a long time on some boards up to a couple minutes. New computer even. I know Joacim slowed down the connect to help with the janky esp’s out there. So maybe it just takes a little longer.
I could not tell for certain what esp that is, it looks genuine, but I can’t tell.
Good idea, start with a fresh boot of the computer. Just to be certain. Update the browser, use chrome.
these are the correct files?
You took my money and sent it to me. If it’s fake we need to talk 
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There used to be options, fake, genuine, or mine with a genuine chip/
No, those are not the files, those are V3, you should start with V2.
I don’t think version will matter, it’s been ‘uploading’ the yaml file for close to an hour. I’m thinking it’s dead. It will now connect to the menu screen on the web, it will fail every time on the windows. And during upload it appears to make a file name, but it’s 0b and doesn’t appear to be an actual file.
If you give me your order number I can look into it more.
This is while connected via USB still right?
|Order #23594|, surprisingly buried deep but still in my gmail.
Still connected. I disconnected it and went back into the installer, and it’s back to the bootloader message. I’m giving up on it.
Are all ESP’s the same? I don’t want to buy an entire new board if just 1 part has gone bad.
This would be the best one to get. I had one that looks just like yours go bad. I have since replaced all of mine with the V1 ESP32
How much memory do these really need? Is 8mb enough? The recently departed gave me low/no memory warnings since the first time I plugged it in.
Fluid has been updated and that isn’t an issue any more. The V1 ESP32 has 8mb. Most only have 4mb. I don’t think there are any with more than 8mb. FluidNC 3.8 is leaps and bounds better than what you got originally
I was able to check your order. You have a generic ESP and the board without the pull-up resistor.
I have a feeling the resistor is what is needed here. You can try powering up and pressing the reset button on the ESP32 (other side from the boot button). Those boards I did a lot of testing and only shipped good combo’s.
Not sure the best way to go about this, can you solder?
Options,
- If you do not have any I can send out a resistor (or pay for an amazon set) and you can solder it on
- I will pay to ship it to me and back to you and I can solder it on here
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I can throw it in an envelope, you might have better luck than I’m having.
My makerspace had a couple esp32 sitting in a drawer so I borrowed one. So far using the windows files as jim posted seems to be working. It’s temporary, it has to go back, I just wanted to see if it was me.
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Yeah, I think this is a case for whatever reason that it now needs the resistor- at least with the ESP-32 that got funky. (And is running warm)
Another sign that your ESP-32 got funky for some reason.
I’d probably add the resistor to the jackpot so I didn’t have to worry about adding it to any replacement ESP32s.
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I missed this one, that is good news!
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Only the the one I borrowed, mine is still dead :laugh: The borrowed one is going back tonight.
For whatever it’s worth, I Really like the V1 ESP-32s. I’m using some in a decidedly non-V1 test setup, and I’m about to order more. There’s a special treat in the exposed GPIOs, along with knowing it is built with the good parts.
I still say put the resistor mod on the older Jackpot board itself, though.
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It’s the ESP from V1, I haven’t done anything to the board since I bought it besides install it. I didn’t know the esp was the important part, I actually just assumed it was just the wifi antenna. I haven’t messed with this stuff in a long time, didn’t google part numbers to see what they were
I’ve been looking through my order emails for the v1 mailing address, can’t seem to find it though. Ryan can you send it to me so I can drop this is the mail?