No wifi, no connection to the board

Should have posted this here instead of on the LR side…

Yay, more issues with my jackpot! I’ve been having connection issues for a while, requiring powering down and back up to get my jackpot to actually talk with the web controller, even though the wifi shows it is connected. I’m almost in the habit of just power cycling at the end of every cut.

Today though, no wifi whatsoever. I’ve cycled power repeatedly and the board doesn’t appear at all as an available network. I’ve tried my computers, my phone, everything that is wifi capable and the jackpot does not appear to exist at all. It’s definitely powered on, LED are lit, steppers are locked, but no way to communicate with it.

I’ve checked wire connections, everything is tight. Is there a way to reset the wifi, any other ideas, or am I just dead in the water here?

Can you upload a picture of your board so I know what you are using please.

Have you updated to 3.8.0?

Gaaah. Make life easy on yourself and pull the esp32 off the jackpot to update it - I wouldn’t think it’s terribly good for your laptop to put external power IN through the usb port.

Other thing I’d check is put a multimeter on your power terminals on the jackpot and confirm the voltage. What amp/watts is your power supply?

Do a fresh install. Not an update, sorry for my poor choice of words.

I can’t see the info on your boards, a picture would really help me quickly identify what you are using.

The boot switch is labeled, you are using the right one, you only need to hold it for like 3 seconds then let it go and erase and update fully. this takes a few moments.

From there you will need to use the files proved further down on the docs jackpot update section. V2 for whatever machine you have. The file upload takes several minutes.

After that power off completely then boot and everything should be fine.

So power on, boot button,full install, power cycle?

There’s a blocking diode on the system,.
When the ESP32 is only connected to USB only the ESP32 is being powered.
That’s normally bad as FluidNC can’t see the electronics on the jackpot.
It’s not a problem at all for doing an install, and effectively is no different than pulling the ESP32 (at least for the install process).

Pulling the ESP32 is only really required if one happens to have an old Jackpot board and certain less than well behaved ESP32s.

I didn’t know that, cool.

USB connected, full install, hold boot button for a few seconds, let it go, it should do the full install and go to the file screen, upload all the V2 files for your machine, when it is done, disconnect button. pull usb (should be powered off at this point because of the USB pull). Wait at least 27 seconds power again from the jackpot and you should be ready.

No joy.



Can you command it over FluidTerm?
Get us the $SS output…

I don’t know what fluidterm is.

I brought just the esp inside (garage is hot and humid) to try with my desk computer, same results.

That’s the utility to send commands to FluidNC over USB.

Unplug ESP32.
Hold boot button, plug in ESP32.
Let go of boot button, try web installer from desktop.

I get " Bootloader not active - Try holding down the BOOT switch" again, no change.

Is fluidterm the same as just the terminal option for the loader? If so, I get a black screen and I can’t type in anything. It has a flashing cursor box but ignores everything besides clicking on disconnect.

And ‘details’ when it pops up the error message just says “esptool.js Serial port”

Fluidterm is a utility that comes in the native installers (not the web installer.)
The fact that you see no output is interesting.

I had an ESP32 where I had to hold down boot and reset to get it to respond.

What do the lights on the ESP32 do when you’re trying this?

I have just the esp on my desk, lights are off the entire time.

That’s not good.
Can you try a different USB cable?
You should get at least one LED when you connect up.

I’m going to try and find another cable, but this is a gold plated one I bought to run between a raspberry pi and the 3d printers, so I know it’s good for data so I think I’m not going to see any difference.

hehe, I was typing about looking for another cable when you suggested it.

I’ve seen cables fail, so worth a shot.