Here is the whole thing. 5 minutes cleanup since it’s ruined anyway. I might be inclined to do it again some time with Z safe set to 1mm. Might shave off a few minutes. 
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I like it!
Sounds familiar, teenagers through young adulthood these days …LOL. You might try prestaining or at least using a pre-stain for the softwood, might ease some of the edge fuzziness.
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Wife did a great job on the graphics - first-rate scroll work - VERY nice!!
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Ryan, Can you machine the plate you are selling as MDF out of aluminum instead? What would be the additional costs? please contact me directly. What would be the best endmill for cutting 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum? I imagine cutting 1/2" would be pushing it even with a coolant drip feed.
I have cut a few of the XZ plates out of 1/4" aluminum. And I have 2 12"x12" pieces of aluminum here that I was going to try to cut some YZ plates out of for a YouTube video testing the Kobalt router but that has yet to happen LOL. Its defiantly capable of making the cut. Just not going to break any speed records doing it LOL
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JJ is your best bet. I am not set up for that sort of thing right now. Using a new material means going to pick it up (45 minutes away), setting up some test cuts, cutting a lot of aluminum, and you are on your own for tapping all the M3 holes. It is not cheap, and having me do it would not be feasible, I have my hands full with the MDF ones.
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Plastic is a much better bet and will save you a ton of money, much less machine time. There is no performance to be gained with aluminum that I can think of.
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THIS!!! I agree completely! And I run 1/2" acrylic on both of my machines in a hot Florida garage with no ac
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I 3D printed my YZ plates. That was enough to get my machine going to cut my own MDF YZ plates, which are now on my machine. I could now, if I wanted, mill more YZ plates out of aluminum if I wanted to go down that path.
Going this route, although takes more time, etc., is ultimately the cheapest path to getting aluminum YZ plates.
That being said, after sealing the MDF YZ plates, I don’t think there’s really no reason to go Aluminum unless you just think it looks cool. I’m not sure you gain much, performance-wise
But as a bonus, it will make you much better a taking the machine apart and putting it back together 
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How about it JJ? can you make a video out of cutting the YZ plates and I’ll pick up the costs? Let me know what your charge would be + materials if interested. I have the metric taps for tapping the M3 screw holes. Postscript - (Never thought about printing them, that may be a lower-cost option to get mine up and running…)
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Mike, what was the thickness of your print nozzle? I was going to change it to .6mm for printing these parts, but wonder if anyone has gone up to 1.0mm nozzle and if this would make stronger parts, just not as aesthetically pleasing I would guess.
0.6 nozzle. I probably printed at 0.36 layer height.
I have a small printer, so I printed in 2 parts and epoxied together
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Did you add some kind of notch or slot (tongue and groove) to the two halves or just butt joint them? Without pulling up the DXF/cut files I have a 250220220mm print capability on my Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo which also has a very good print speed - is my build platform big enough to print in one piece?
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JJ, as I said, Wife did a super job on this, but sometimes fitting text to a shape area messes with the perspective, so I spent a little time to “tweak” the kerning and lettering at the top to read a little straighter. Hope you don’t mind me messing with your Wife’s fine work.
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My wife didn’t make the sign, it was an SVG off Etsy. She gets fancy with the photography LOL.
As far as making the plates I can sure try. I just don’t know when LOL. I have another 2ish weeks home before I’m back off shore for 4 weeks. We will see if I can get to it before I leave or not. Cant make any promises.
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Y’all need some frog plates.
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Green anodised and laser etched! 
Quak: