Sorry, misinformed you. It is the bearings that you showed in your picture that adjust the tension (screws are on the bottom of the core)
You don’t have to “crank them”, small adjustments of 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn are probably enough to take up the slack.
The core should not be free to rock like that. The tightening of the bolts allows for adjusting the fit on the EMT tubes. It should grip the tubes, but not so tightly that it compresses the tubes and causes you to feel the braces when you roll past them. I think the tightening works by flexing the printed core a bit. Please check and confirm you have the right braces for the size of EMT tube you have, and attempt the tightening.
So I just tightened them up a bit. The captured ones though. I didn’t read your last post until after I messed with it. Ill have to mess with it tonight when I get home.
I confirmed Ive got the right ones. I’ll have to mess with the bolts some more tonight. I think I was erroring to much on the side of caution.
Soooooo close.
I’m somehow square within less than 1/16th over a full sheet of plywood. I don’t really believe it myself.
BUT I cannot get an SD card to show up in the interface on the jackpot. I have tried 2 different ones. One that cam from Ryan. One that I had. Both over 32gb and both formated for Fat. Any ideas?
I had this issue with mine but using an SD card that i bought from Ryan was the fix. the ones that didn’t work were higher speed cards. So with you using one that you got from him that doesn’t make any sense…
@vicious1 any thoughts?
Interestingly the one I got from Ryan was dead. Didn’t show in the jackpot and tried 3 different computers to format it and wouldn’t take. It’s totally gone. Never used it either. Put it in the jackpot is all I ever did with it.
So none of your cards are working in the jackpot at all?
Correct. The one I got in my kit didn’t work in the jackpot nor could I format it. I grabbed a different one I had. Formatted it. Stuck it in and nothing. Rebooted and everything. However it is a faster sandisk extreme I think. It’s also larger. 128gb. All I had lying around.
Good chance that will not work.
Want to try re-flashing the jackpot?
I don’t think that will work. Above 32Gb needs to be formated ExFAT. I thought FluidNC needed FAT32.
Interesting.
NOTE: There seems to be some bad information from the fluidNC documentation at:
I don’t believe the note above about 4G is correct. I think the limit is actually 32Gb FAT32 format.
I’ll run to Walmart in the morning and grab a smaller card. I don’t have any smaller than that and I think the one from Ryan is done.
That will be my next step. If that sounds like a good plan?
I got a new SD card that was slow and only 32gb. Reformatted it and it seemed to work fine. Guess I just had one bad card, and one that was too big/fast.
I’ll send a refund in the morning, and adjust my time testing for future orders.
No way. Don’t worry about it at all. Things happen. It’s not worth the hassle. Could have been something I did for all we know. Just glad I’m cutting!
So I finally got one of the struts cut. I think it failed 6 or 7 times. For several reasons. A couple were the wrong bit I think. But the others are binding leading to lost steps which obviously throws the cut off. I’m not sure if I need to reprint my core. Or if I need to reprint braces. My core seems to be hitting the braces and rubbing and/or binding. If I tighten down the core so that it doesnt rock like in my previous video then in binds and hits braces. If I loosen it then it seems to move so much that I get these weird cuts which I can only assume is the core moving, therefore the bit moving. Any ideas or suggestions? I’m guessing on all this.
Sorry for the long post! I’m so close. Anxious to get it more dirty. Thank you all in advance! The main reason I have built 2 V1 cnc’s is because of this forum being so good!
So if your printer is not printing dimensionally accurate, then the amount by which it is off would be compounded with each movement and/or new added layer. This could result in parts that are not the right length or width or height. This can be tested, and adjusted for — calibrating the E-step‘s. Some people mistakenly think the E-steps are only calibrated for how much plastic gets extruded, but E-steps also can be calibrated for the amount of motion (distance) provided by the stepper per each command. It could be possible that if your core is larger than it should be, you might have this issue. It’s a possibility.
Teaching Tech has a lot of resources on his website, and videos about printing for measuring dimensional accuracy. Common method is to print a large cube usually that consists of vase mode — one wall thick — that lets you measure for dimensional accuracy in length, width, and height. And there is a formula for how much you need to change your E-step value for each driver that is off.
Typically, this happens when the wrong diameter tubing is used. Can you verify that your tube diameter and what it says on the inside of your braces.
Is that a crack or just a printing blob? The prints look really nice otherwise.
Tube and braces are both 23.4.
I had calibrated all axis on my printer before I started printing. Printing test cube, tolerance tests and a couple of Ryan’s tests multiple times. My test cubes were super close in dimensional accuracy. Doesn’t mean the core printed right but I definitely went through the calibration gauntlet.
