Awe man this forum needs some response emojis like fb 
all day long
You need to go to a real lumber yard and get some mahogany faced marine-grade plywood.
I had some that was a teak and maple stripped that I used on a project or two. It was leftover from when dad re-did the floor of his boat.
Since moving I am much further away from all that. I used to live 5 minutes from an ashby lumber, and both big box stores, and even a little local specialty lumber store…now I have a beat up old home depot everything else is a little more than an hour away.
I have always liked your Logo. Makes me feel like my stuff is powered by a Flux Capacitor. Some peoples logos can be annoying when they aren’t really broad age group appropriate but yours has always looked good, and not too in your face…
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Okay so since we are talking about new parts…
If all the parts use the same sized, M5 locknuts (and they standard seems to be valid 8mm across the flats) are well all on board for captured nuts for these or do I make room for people to use a small socket?
My perspective, captured is simple to assemble, and less obtrusive to the overall look, slightly stronger parts as I do not have to keep such a large area open to fit a tool. These should in no way require a flat head screwdriver to hold them since I can capture more sides, they are also slightly larger than an #6 (7.8mm flat to flat)…but who knows… I do not trust people using a socket, but unfortunately all the larger bolts will require it this time.
My only gripes/worries about captured nuts are:
- Poor print quality may end up causing them to not fit. Maybe at M5 size, this isn’t as big of a deal, but some M3 nut prints I’ve done didn’t fit well.
- It is easier to cross thread them, since they can easily be held in place at the wrong angle.
Otherwise, I am a fan.
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Okay so maybe I stick to what I am doing, open where it is easy and tight spot gets captured. We’ll see how many others have an opinion on this.
M3’s are pretty small.
I like captured nuts - with one caveat - ALL (6) sides must be captured… I have had issues with partially captured nuts, basically being not-captured and do not trust them anymore…
From the pic it looks like you were only planning to capture 4 sides, if that’s the case - I would prefer not trying to capture them at all. And instead allowing them to sit flush on the surface so they can captured with an open ended wrench.
Just another perspective/opinion…
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That is all 6 at least 3mm past the top of the nut at the least. 1.5 degree draft so bad prints should still be able to get them started and crank 'em in.
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I’m a big fan of captured nuts except for if I can’t get a finger back there to make sure they stay in place. I don’t want to have to glue them all in.
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So far that is only the tool mount. The current plan is to keep this burly tool mount compatible so we can still use all the mounts people have made…but I might make a new one entirely for this, or go back to direct mounts again. Hard to say, squeezing every last drop of rigidity is not easy and I plan on saving that for last as I want to try some thangs.
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Is gluing the toolmount nuts in better than having to take the tool mount off completely, or should I capture them another way (slide in?)
Ryan I have not been following this thread (so forgive me if I am off base here) but I saw your above question about gluing the tool mount nuts. Since I only built my first MPCNC like 3 months ago this whole this is fresh to me.
In general, the only problem I personally had when making the thing were the tool mount nuts. I used super glue and was patient. I got through by crown test and was super stoked and was getting ready to mount the Dewalt router.
Then a couple tool mount nuts fell out and I think I had to remove the whole gantry to put them back in. I think I re-guled and put a piece of tape just to stop them from falling. I remember thinking that I planned never to change tools or put the pen back on cause I did not want that problem ever again cause it was a but painful.
If there was some semi permanent way to put them in or as you say slide them in that would be better.
Again, forgive me if I am not paying proper enough attention to the discussion.
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Awesome, thanks for the fresh perspective. Exactly why I ask. The new screws are longer so there are more options!
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I too find the traps intimidating when not accessible easily and don’t retain the nuts maybe make them small and preset then before assembly?
Now the test is there a date or just when its done😎 it’s done
I am doing my best to at least have something fun for mrrf, that doesn’t mean it will be released then but that is a soft deadline I would like to hit.
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I love the teasers and previews I just cant wate for the next one its addictive my basment is looking like a V1 museum 
I love new hardware software testing and breaking you make my life exciting and I make just enough using the machines to pay for the next one
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Wonder how hard it would be to make a second part that bolts to the main tool holder part in back to hold the nuts in place? Only needs to be a couple layers thick.
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I like this idea.
A simple plate that matches the curve of the back of the tool holder and covers part of each nut. Could even make the part that holds the nuts shaped like a spade connector.
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