That 1R5 should be a 1.5 Ohm SMT inductor.
To the left of that I see two voltage regulators that appear to be blown.
I don’t see any obvious sign of a sustained arc or short on the 2209 socket by the USB. What did the driver itself look like?
My uninformed guess would be an a power rail got shorted to ground- maybe with an endstop.
off it would have been wise to flash the board with only power and nothing else but the SD card.
I set all jumpers according to the voron 2.4 docs for the octopus. Their diagram showed red boxes for which to remove and green boxes for which to add for the 2209 setup. I did bend the one pin similar to the SKR pro on the MPCNC and that needs to be bend back, but not a showstopper
all 5 steppers were plugged in and all 8 of the 2209’s were on the board though only 6 were required. The wiring connectors both ends of each of the 3 z motor wires were custom crimped by the author and it is possible a wire strand was missed and one of them shorted. Probably not the most likely scenario to cause what occurred.
No heater coil wires were plugged in because voron docs said don’t until after you have your config set, but the bed heater SSR digital side was connected
the extruder hot end fan was connected.
both the bed thermal sensor and the hot end thermal sensor were wired in.
I did have one end stop plugged in, now that you mentioned the end stops… I had it wired like the MPCNC. I should have doulbe checked that and I bet that is the issue right there. Are the end stops supposed to be NC or NO. On the MPCNC, they are NC… that could very likely be the issue.
On the octopus 1.1 schematic that matches the board layout (446 processor), the part that smoked is L9.
You mention 2 parts that appear to be blown. I’ve taken a better photo for review. How would I get replacements for those… mouser? do I need a hot air rework station or will my old weller be able to do it?
If that were my board and I was going to try and fix it, I might try to pull the smoked parts by heating up the pads on the components and using a pair of small side cutters to help free them up up. It’s already dead, so just taking care to not overheat and lift a pad is most important. I’d be willing to cut up a part as long as I could cleanly get the lead de-soldered from the pad.
I’d try to clean it up with some solder braid, re-tin the pads, then solder down the replacements. None of those look like they have to be hot air rework.
Mostly, that’s about how good your detail work is and whether that old weller has a suitable tip.
You probably can buy the parts from Mouser or Digikey, though they might be a little spendy for single unit purchases.
so I see this one…
And I think I can pull that one and replace it. for a while I was pretty good and 0805 hand soldering and I’ve done some SOIC replacements.
What is the other one you picked out. The others appear ok to me.
Red are either visually bad or highly suspect based on your description. Yellow is suspect.
Edit: There’s a red ellipse with a white infill that is a fat finger on my part. Only the three red with transparency are real.
Edit2: You said above that the 1R5 component smoked. If you saw it smoke I’d replace it. Possibly you saw the neighbors light up, in which case it may not have smoked. To the left of that in the yellow circle I see a hint of what could be thermal damage, but it isn’t at all certain.
Edit3: Regarding the endstop- the most common failure is to get “off by one” pin and install the connector between ground and the adjacent voltage pin. In my opinion, this is a STUPID design implementation. The connector should be keyed or have a jumper and a dummy pin to prevent accidentally plugging in an enstop across those points. Dumb, dumb, dumb design. If I’m right about the enstop, that’s what happened.
MP3DP Repeat H2 Build - Mostly Printed 3D Printer - MP3DP / Your Builds - V1 Engineering Forum
For the Fan Mount. Designed for your extruder but works well for the REVO also
Thanks for the print fan mount link.
Anybody have a klipper printer.cfg for the octopus they would be willing to share? The last few days of searching on and off has only shown various specific segments. I was going to just pull the voron config and modify from there, but figured I would ask in the hope it might save some time.
I think @azab2c is your best bet for that. I am running a Manta M*P with CB1. I can send you the config but you will have to adjust the pins assigned.
Am periodically backing up my Klippper printer.cfg here…
250x250x250, Octopus v1.1 with EBB36. Haven’t updated in a while, pushing an update shortly…
your github is a gold mine. Thank you for the link!!
Thank you @orob !
Don’t forget to Star and Subscribe 
Just updated printer.cfg.
Non stock parts on my build are shared in mp3dp-v4/mods, absolute $h1t show of a mess, includes prototypes and abandoned experiments, but everything’s shared. Am trying to share final parts used on my build via a MP3DP v4 Printables Collection, which also includes parts designed by other V1E community members. However, I haven’t bothered to publish some parts yet that are still lurking in the /mods folder. One day…
So I have the new parts and I have not rewired and tried again now being a bit gun shy what with the last disaster.
How do you all decide how to lay out the wiring in your control boxes? I have access to 3d printing, CO2 laser cutting, acrylic, wood, etc, but so far my best box is still a hack job. What design considerations are paramount for a good electrical enclosure /control box.
In the box I will have:
Skr octopus
Ssr
5v stepdown regulator
24V power supply (meanwell style)
I’ll be running klipper on a raspberry pi with 7" touch screen, so in addition to stepper wiring and hot end and bed wiring. There will be a USB cable and power to the rpi (any idea how to convince the raspberry pi that my 13 a 5v regulator is actually 5v? And not in danger of browning out?).
New parts have been here a while and I have been steadily rewiring. The A motor (right side) belt has to be replaced because the carriage has no space to hold excess belt, which led to cutting it too short and it was way too tight. New length of belt came (thanks @vicious1). I had previously cut it about 1/2" too short and I believe I’m not the first one to do this.
My latest question: how tight should the belt be when initially connecting it and how tight should it be after using the tensioner?
I will put in my request to have the belt button wrap knob thingy in the carriage that the belt can fold around to interlock on itself and extra belt can stick back out along the incoming belt path (think mpcnc) and then be clipped. Getting this belt folded at the right length to self-lock and fit in the space I’m finding to be extremely difficult. Perhaps there is a technique or skill needed.
The tensioner has more than 10mm of tension movement. Defining tension is not easy. The answer is 7lbs, but the best way to get there is to start looser than you expect and only tension it if it skips teeth. One side effects the tension of the other as well.
I use needle nosed pliers.
The orientation this prints in prevents that from working.
Thanks for responding. I’ll try again and keep at it until it works.
Would it be easier to wrap the belt around something rather than pinch it and insert it? Perhaps it is a dimension issue. A friend just finished building his voron and has been feeding me parts to get this going and prove his setup is working. They are ABS and are perhaps slightly small. The bolts are tight, the belt slots are extremely tight. A pin through the carriage from the top section above the carrier to the bottom section below would/could/should be strong enough. Perhaps a 3mm countersunk bolt would work just as well to hold the belt loop.
this is a placeholder idea, so once this thing is running it can reprap the newer design. This is the carriage. Maybe once I get that stupid belt in and it works, I’ll just leave it alone…
There should NOT be a loop… use a small cut piece of belt sandwiched. If you are using my carriage then you may need to add a small piece of tape to the back of the belt to tighten it us as I apparently made the slots slightly big (it does make it easy to put the belt in though).
got it. and I did loop it anyway so no tape is required to get it to hold. had to tighten the left side more than might be ideal so the x rail stays true to the frame. I think it looks pretty good.
@azab2c your config file has this statement for the z axis:
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
when I load the printer.cfg, it states:
I don’t know where the “probe:” definition comes from. It is referenced in the z motor endstop. It is probably a call to the BLtouch, which right now is not enabled.
I’ve been poring over the BTT component drawings and schematic to get all the pin assignments correct in firmware before actually plugging them in again to try anything.
Without the can bus, this config is different than yours and though it is wired like a voron 2.4 with their pin assignments, the z axis is totally different, so that needs to be taken from your config.
What is shaping?
Got [bltouch] section configured ok?
Hey @orob, yeah, some of the syntax isn’t intuitive. I’d also have expected to see a “probe” entity explicitly declared somewhere. However…
Check out the [bltouch] probe section and
doc Configuration reference - Klipper documentation
Am using an “ANTCLABS BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor v3.1”
My Klipper printer.cfg config is for a BTT Octopus v1.1, I copied a snapshot of Mike’s Manta M8P too, a lot of my config was based on Mike’s to start with.
Yep, spent a bunch of time on this too… Tried hard to avoid killing another Controller board.
Yeah, my config was derived from a bunch of sources, including Voron. Included some comments with notes/breadcrumbs that might help folks cobbling their configs together…
Don’t think I’ve configured Input Shaping to improve print quality by compensating for machine resonance/vibrations. The BTT EBB36 and similar have accelerometers onboard that can be used to measure vibration signature unique to the build. Klipper can then compensate for this to improve print quality. I currently have more fundamental/basic things to tune first (e.g. extrusion) before worrying about resonance being a bottleneck to perf/quality. This is a new thing for me, hopefully someone that knows more will chime in and correct/confirm my understanding?
