You do need to take that film off.
The product information states specifically to take that off before printing to it. It is sure easier to ask questions on the forum than to stop and actually read the documentation.
That looks great!
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Congratulations! Squirting molten plastic qualifies for being able to claim a MP3DP serial number
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First print with this machine, first print for me with klipper.
It was to be a benchy, but after 17 minutes of heating up, it still hadn’t started printing, so something isn’t quite right… print canceled 2x
Throwing darts here: Picked 205 as extrude temp and 60 for bed. Extruder wouldn’t stabilize and wandered from 205-207 C for 7 minutes. I’m looking to see if there is a pid tuning calibration for the hot end. Perhaps that is why it isn’t progressing. Thoughts?
Edit: the command is PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200
I got 000014
It sure did! Congratulations.
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Just a note of thanks to those of you who took time to consider my questions and even post answers and encouragement. I really appreciate the help. This has been a long frustrating build with duplicate purchases of several electronic components and reprints and just not much time to make it work. There are still so many things still left to do (enclose print area, enclose controller area, mount LCD, mount RPI, turn on camera, mount camera, make soft feet, make bed drop pads, secure print trolley wiring, etc.), but it is at least somewhat useful now and the purpose it was built was to reprint the MPCNC parts I cracked from heavy use this summer. Based on my first bency print, this is totally possible now. Thank you!
Curious about 3d printing calibration for dimensional accuracy:
printed a 1"x1"x1" cube (25.4 mm x 25.4 mm x 25.4 mm) of PLA at 205 °C with a 0.4 mm nozzle and a step height of 0.2 mm.
X = 25.38 mm
Y = 25.77 mm
Z = 25.59 mm
Is that within what should be considered acceptable tolerance?
Possible sources of dimensional inaccuracies:
- overextrusion
- excessive heat and flow/squish
- some other minor setup issue.
Thoughts?
Only at 60 mm/s. There is no shaper sensor on it, so it isn’t up to speed yet. How fast should it go? I’m basically using stock generic slicer settings. If it is accurate at slow speed it should translate to faster speeds. Intuitively… But, it probably needs to be tuned for specific speeds?
Generic slicer settings don’t translate to different printers. My best settings for PLA - 30mm/s for the first layer, then 200 for infills/inner layers, 500mm/s top and bottom (with acceleration 3000 it does not get to that speed unless there are long runs), 80-100 for outer wall. All of that after setting linear advance, input shaping, correct geometry and extrusion multiplying
Your cube is good but you can get within 0.2mm accuracy. Print bigger model, like 100x100. This will give you a better picture if culprit is steps per mm vs extrusion multiplying factor
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I looked at your settings and then put in these:
and it looks like this:
as opposed to the one at 60 mm/s that looks like this:
There is definitely some resonance around the Y on the faster one, but it did it.
Wondering if it will print a benchy with these settings…
Hard to see on the yellow but if you get ringing on faster speeds either reduce acceleration or use input shaping (which is great and does not require any additional hardware). Also make sure linear advance is also set to the correct value. Every printer is different
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+1 for this. Ended up wasting >400g of filament on a Core that was wrong height. Cause was I didn’t use larger dimensions to calibrate Z correctly.