I have the F429. and I bet its the funky one because its the only one with 1mb of flash… If I could just figure out how to get the stock BTT bootloader back installed I think it would be ok. The guide I am following now seems to work for a ton of people. I just wish I had found it before finding the other one lol. I should have never hooked it to STM32 in the first place.
I’m pretty sure that’s true. You have something running as shown by your screenshot- but it’s the wrong one based on that output and my ratty recollection.
I think we just need to figure out the correct restoration for your F429 variant.
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This is the one I found…
You’re using Klipper and a CAN extruder/hotend…
Would it be worth abandoning the stock bootloader and moving on to Katapult (Formerly CANBoot)?
That’s what I am trying to flash on to it but keep getting the DFU error. My understanding is I have to fix the DFU to get anything else to work
Ok this is driving me crazy. I’m 99% sure it’s the “high quality” amazon linear rail but I’m just not 100% sure. I’m thinking the X rail. It doesn’t do it when it’s just a y move.
Well I switched over to Orca slicer and did a temp tower. Took 5 tries to finally get it to stick. Started with textured PEI, nope. Went to smooth PEI (pic above) nope, Went to glass, nope. Let glass cool and took it to the sink and scrubbed the 
out of it with dawn, let dry, then brand new magic eraser with 99% IPA… and nope. So finally resorted to the glue stick on the glass and that worked. Didn’t get it put down near as clean as I wanted to. But its cooling off now so I can go wash it again and put it on cold so I get a nice thin coat.
I never expected it but the 270° looks the best to me. Way hotter than I usually go with ASA. Sad thing is this isn’t the ASA I will be using to print the parts for the E5+ lol, not even the same brand. So really I’ll have to do all this over again. But for now I can take one more crack at printing the core for the V4. I got it to finish all the way last night but it had lifted in a spot that I didn’t see, right where a belt goes so without some major work its not usable. Would rather get a good clean print. I just really don’t want to put it in the enclosure yet, want to get this changed out and all squared up again before I do that.
Edit… On closer look (zoomed in on my phone, getting old sucks) I actually think the 245°/250° look real good too. 250° is where I usually print ASA. So I think I will stick with that for now and run another temp tower when I switch over to the polymaker ASA. Hopefully its as good as everyone says it is LOL
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That’s unexpected.270 is too hot.
What are you using for a heated bed temp? ASA is even worse than ABS- need around 110C for good adhesion. I also needed hairspray on textured PEI to get a satisfactory result. I gave up trying ASA for the time being because of my own attempts to print it.
Yes, you’ll want to get this right before you get too serious about printing functional parts with ASA.
250 sounds better to me.
Double check you heated bed temps, maybe even try a test at temps from 100C to 120C.
You also need soak time. I had to leave the bed at 110C for about 5 minutes minimum (sensor is on the bottom, but you print on the top) It takes a while for thermal soak to get the print bed surface to a good working temp.
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Ive been running 100°C for bed temp. But I just ran across this guide and if I am understanding this correctly that may be too hot…
My bed is 1/4" thick aluminum with a 750w mains powered heater that is PID tuned so it stays at temp real well. And its heated first thing. I will try heating it up earlier. But honestly I’m thinking about dropping it down to 90°-95° to try and stay under that “glass” temp.
Any more thoughts on this @MakerJim
I’m sure that the issue you’re having is with the F429 that is on your version of the Octopus.
There’s a funky nuance with that, and getting the bootloader flashed.
I’ve seen it before but don’t remember all the details and my web searches weren’t turning up anything particularly helpful.
I’m a little hesitant to throw out other ideas as I don’t want to tell you to try something that could brick your board- and I don’t have an Octopus to test with.
This is the problem with families of materials all called the same thing. Some ASA has a Tgt that is up much higher, and apparently some has a Tgt that is fairly low. It seems that using a material with the lower Tgt for your core is something of a step back- as the whole reason you wanted to use a different material was to take advantage of the higher glass transition point. If it’s really down there around 80C, then frankly you’d be better off with PETG than such a low transition ASA.
Maybe reconsider whether you have the correct material choice if you find the Tgt of your material is actually around 80C
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It may as well be bricked now so go for it. I wont hold you responsible at all. I am the one that got it to this situation lol. Worst case it goes in the trash as a learning experiment lol. I still have 2-3 spare SKR Pros laying around so no shortage of boards here,
I need to look up and see what the temp for this material is. I’m honestly not sure at all.
Re-reading from above, when you tried to flash, you set the boot jumper pin, and hit reset for 5+ seconds to properly put it in DFU mode, right?
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Yes sir that is correct. And after that I can type lsusb and it will show up in dfu mode
Also, as I’m studying this, you’ve removed all the other connections? (Apparently if the heated bed is connected, for example, it screws up)
Have you tried using the STM32 programmer instead of the RPi?
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Yes sir. Board is as naked as it gets…
Yes, with USB and with a ST Link Programmer…
But the only thing I did with STM32 was try and flash the bootloader to repair the DFU. I did not try to put katapult/canboot on it with STM32.
That would be my suggestion…
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Ok. Im almost done putting this ASA core on then I will give it a shot. Thank you!
So did you revive the octopus?