Currently I have no panels just the extrusion. I was hoping that by using the DXF from your cad that making the panels will force everything correct. So which panel do I need to worry about first?
I’m on strike 3 with this stupid tubing for the air blower so I may just stand there with an air hose and try to cut some panels today. I’m over it and starting to run out of time with everything going on at work.
You can either make the front panel or just adjust your corner brackets on the front.
Hopefully @vicious1 is happy with how the logo turned out. Always try to do it the most justice possible
And just wow… this is it sitting on top of the bar across the bottom. Obviously it’s not square at all. And I spent an hour squaring in the LR3 before this cut so there’s no reason the new panel shouldn’t be square
First panel installed. HOLY 
that was a job. But its insane how much just that one panel stiffened up the entire frame!!! Next I think I’m going to cut and install the back panel. Then ill worry about the sides and the bottom.
First try with the new front panel installed… Bed at 60°C for about 5 min before i started test…
So what do we think??? Seems like its better but still not great. But I’m not the best at looking at this and knowing for sure if its ok. @vicious1
A 1.5mm dip seems kinda big. I think it could work if you turn the leveling fade up to 10mm or so, maybe even a more just to be sure.
Fake it and lift that corner up with something to see what happens. like put 5 layers of Blue tape in that low corner and make sure it covers a few probing spots. See if it changes or not. Along that side you are showing a total of 2mm out.
You are sure the trucks are not hitting the rear corner blocks when it is probing?
Run with it!
Hopefully each panel force it more and more square and that dip gets better and better. After the XY squaring, the YZ squaring might reveal some more easy tweaks to get rid of that dip…Actually That is something to try.
I am very hopeful that fixes it, it makes perfect sense in my head!!
I am hopeful as well. LR3 is locked down with another important project that I NEED to finish…and would be finished if I didn’t keep making mistakes LOL. Cost of learning!!! Once this sign is out of the way I hope to cut the rear panel. The only thing I set up for additional holes on that was for the power supply. I believe I’m going to put the SKR on the right side if looking at it from the front. I have more room on that side. I thought I had ordered 2 24x48 panels but turns out I only ordered 2 24x24. Got 2 more on order now. I leave first thing in the morning for GWO training for work and wont be back until Friday night. Hoping it will be here by then and I’ll get to cut the side panels this weekend. I got greedy last night and set the LR3 core to print. It was looking ok… Infill wasn’t laying like it should. I think I had it set too fast. And I tried to do .4mm layer height instead of my normal .3mm on a .6mm nozzle. It was less than an hour from finishing when octoprint lost connection and the bed dropped. That’s why I usually just print from SD card… Oh well. It wasn’t right anyways. Bothering me that ive printed half of the new LR3 parts on my creality when i have a V1 printer right here LOL.
ugh, frustrating. Seems like something that will irk someone enough to get fixed/improved.
Is there something I can do to fix/improve or are you referring to Octoprint/BTT?
This is my first CoreXY and the bed dropping behavior bothers me.
Save config change, restart or whatever and suddenly the bed drops and has to be homed and recalibrated again. PITA. Feels like a regression coming from an Ender, imo, ideally bed should hold it’s own between resets, through software and/or physically (pulley/counterweight?)
There are boards that when powered down they short the coils. That drastically slows falling. You can put soft stops at the bottom to cushion the drop.
After tuning though, my farm basically never has a bed fall. The print finishes and the bed parks. Power failures are almost nonexistent for me.
The other option is a lead/ball screw, then you have to fight banding. https://youtu.be/4kQZnSzZHD0
That illustrates my belt choice pretty clearly.
Is that moving the one Y rail, or Tape on the bed?
Moved the Y rails. now in both directions. Didn’t make a difference.
Just took large zip ties out of my ambilocal. Its just loosie goosy now. Running it again to see if that changes anything.
