Hey where did you get your 12 x 12 by quarter inch thick aluminum plate? And how much did you have to pay for it?
Appreciate this question, curious too.
Bought Alu for my LR3 XZ plates from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095HBG4YF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, my other option was local metalsupermarkets.com
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SEUNMUK 1 PCS 12 x 12 Inches… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096W1L1WX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the bed. I expect it is not as good as a full MIC-6 plate but i am pretty impressed with the finish on this piece.
One did get lost in shipping on the way. USPS for the win.
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Working on the toolhead. Pretty much everything is on it with the exception of the limit switch and some final connectors. Wanted to get an idea on weight.
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Neat! I had no idea what I was looking at until I reread your topic, earlier you mentioned trying out bed support like voron trident. Very cool!
Interesting that model has 200x200 heat pad under a 254 x254 plate.
@probrwr thank you for all the info you’ve been sharing. Am ordering a EBB36 and H2S V2 REVO thanks to your mention of them. Curious what heat pad you’re using? Planning to use PEI on your 12"x12"x1/4" Alu ? Cheers!
I am putting a 235x235 120vac pad inder a 1/4inch thick ground aluminum bed. Not MIC-6 bit pretty nice. Thermal fuse and foam insulation.
I have had a PEI spring steel bed for a couple years that I ordered by mistake. Finally using it.
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My plan is to mount the electronics on a piece of ACM mounted below the printer. I added an extra 90mm to the verticals to make this happen.
I made feet for the posts and printed them from Overture Purple TPU with 2 perimeters and 20% cubic subdivision infill. Super happy with how they came out and the fact that they almost perfectly match the Inland Purple PLA+.
Modeled the first iteration of the skirt. Its purpose will be to enclose the bottom area and it is undercut to clamp the ACM in place around the perimeter. I had to use supports on ut but watched Teaching Techs new video on supports and they came off near perfectly.
The back will have fans to pull air through for cooling and the front will be taller with a slot for the ACM to slide in to at the correct height. I will also add the touch screen to the front.
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Are you sharing your build dimensions and extra part stls anywhere? I like this layout.
Not yet outside of this topic. As I get the extra parts ironed out (just made a change to the Bed mount parts yesterday) I will post them up!
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Nice! Appreciate the updates. Am not sure about details for my build yet, but am currently planning to copy Voron Trident/2.4 DIN mounted electrical component layout underneath.
I expect to go the same direction. I have DIN rails coming and already had the SSR. Ordered an DIN rail SSR mount for it. Since the bed heater is only 500W and my SSR is a 40A model I don’t think I will have nay heat issues with it.
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Don’t want to pollute Mike’s build thread, moved my question about planning height above print head here.
On your EBB36 did you get the one with Max31865 or without? I guess the Max31865 is for using something other than a thermistor?
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I got it without. I don’t plan on using a PT100 or PT1000 on anything so did not see a need for it. The PT’s are RTD temperature sensors. They are much more accurate and responsive to change than a thermistor is, but the newer thermistor packages work fine for this.
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Next time I am up in your area we should get together. I am almost directly south of you in Radford VA but my beer is carried in your area by Tygart Valley Distributors.
That would be cool!
I’m a non-drinker non-smoker, so beers are not on my menu, but would be great to meet you in person!
No worries from me! Same on the meet!
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Cleaned off the Primo and set up to cut my bottom panel. Of course I tightened the Y Endstops and they broke so I had to print new ones. Now all my colors don’t Match 
No worries!
I got some new 1/8 downcut bits in as I have had issues with the thinner material being pulled up. I set it up to bore the holes for the DIN rails first and as it finished them I added screw to hold the piece down and removed the outside screws holding the piece. I “May” have undersized and skewed my rough cuts. It is time to fix the spoil board on this thing.