I had the little brackets you linked. I used them all on the last build. I will be getting more for sure.
I do have some 3D printed ones big ones , with a logo!
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Those have a lot more character.
I don’t want to focus too much on those brackets. The entire build looks great. This is just one small piece.
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All good, I needed the confirmation. I am going to try to bring this one to Rmmrf, I figure these brackets would survive the trip the best.
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I like those V1 logo printed corner brackets. Are they released anywhere?
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They are in the CAD for the mp3dp v4, I can break them out if you would like. Fits an M3x10mm screw.
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Love the case and overall look. Getting hard to resist building these
ACM would be cool. What cheap material could replace the chonky angle brackets? Could fully enclosing panels of milled 3mm acrylic/polycarbonate, or HVAC sheet metal work, sealed MDF, sealed plywood, Corian, or something else?
Would you trust accuracy of hole drilled panels, or should they have sloted holes bored out to allow micro-adjustments when assembling?
Fully enclosed printer would give me piece of mind that no one’s curious fingers are going to end up in multiple pieces if this thing is going full speed while on display. Plus less warp and energy consumption.
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I love it!
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I love that stuff. I think the only problem with using other materials for a frame is it will take a lot of whatever. 6 panels at least. It will end up looking a lot like an ultimaker, those do look nice though.
I think I could whip one up…Dam this is tempting.
ACM equals enclosure?
ACM/dibond is the aluminum plastic aluminum panels. They are really nice looking and a good balance between all plastic and all aluminum. Sign shops use them a lot so if you can find them locally they can be cheap.
You could make a fully enclosed printer if you wanted, For me printing PLA mostly, that is not a goal but I would also not prevent it.
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I also print PLA mostly so not sure if I need an enclosure. I have TPU and PETG still in the original boxes.
Why do you prefer PLA over PETG?
I think if you are going to have a selection, Pla, ASA, and TPU cover 99.99% of anything you could need.
pla for rigidity, asa for heat resistance, tpu for soft stuff.
Makes sense.
I did find dibond here and it´s not that expensive.
Do you have an intended printing speed for pla for v4?
I print at my nozzle’s highest flow rate. 12 or 13mm^3/s for me that is like 55 or 60mm/s with 0.5mm nozzle at 0.37mm layers.
You will need to tune your own build but the lighter your extruder/hotend, the faster you can go.
Ok. I have only tried ender 5 plus with bowden, ender 5 plus with direct drive and micro swiss all metal hotend and stock ender 3 max.
55 to 60mm/s sounds good. Do you have an intended extruder/hotend combo?
This is open, with 6 mounting holes. You can mount anything you want. I use a hemera. Speed is kinda secondary to flowrate.
If I wanted a 300mm cubed build I would add 100mm to everyone of these? There is a premade package with 12x500mm 2020 extrusions. How big could I go with 500mm extrusions? 470mm? And with 750mm extrusions?
Is there any good reason to keep the build small or big? Or medium?
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Well, the 2020 extrusion as with any material will be less rigid the longer that it is. Longer material has a greater moment arm when any force is applied to it, so it becomes easier to bend, and relatively weaker as well, so the amount of flex that it will have with any applied force grows exponentially. This is a reason to make the printer as small as possible while still able to manage what you do with it.
You can increase the rigidity of the frame by adding side panels which anchor to the frame and help support it, but this is of course at the cost of additional material and mass. Speaking of mass, the longer the X rail is the more it weighs and flexes as well. The MP3DPv4 uses an unsupported MGN12H rail for the carriage, so at some point this will become a limiting factor. Many CoreXY printers support the linear rail with an additional extrusion, but this also affects mass and limits the possible acceleration of the print head, mostly in the Y dimension.
IMHO, 300mm isn’t unfeasable. I have a larger volume on my MP3DPv3 and get excellent results, even though the gantry is even more flexible than this one. But it is a reason to keep the build volume as small as practical.
To be useful, I think that a 200mm cube build volume is a good target for all-purpose 3D printing. You can already slice a print that will take days in that volume. I have very seldom needed a larger build volume. The reason my Repeat build volume is larger is because of the parts I had ready mostly (A CR-10 build plate which is 300mm by 300mm usable area) as well as the MGN12H linear rails that I could easily obtain, and that I am unwilling to cut. Same with my MP3DP v4, where I had 300mm rails for Y and Z and got a 350mm rail for X to make for a 250mm cube build volume – this time I have a 235mm square build plate. I should probably have cut the rails down and just used 200mm anyway, particularly since I have the Repeat if I need the extra size. I am certain that the 235mm build plate would have fit inside the machine. Well, I can’t resist changing stuff, that’s why I DIY.
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